Use some pliers and apply some light pressure to the crimp rings to get them to stay in place before crimping with the bigger tool. Way less work for one person rather than trying to carefully keep the ring in place.

Hey matt I think a great follow up video would be the pex piping to the fixture transition ie toilets ,sink faucet,shower bath mixing valves etc

He forgot to mention that orange tool in the beginning not only gives depth to push too, but also trims the edge of the pipe to keep from cutting the O-ring

Sharkbite-type fittings are terrific for emergency repairs because they require no tools, no soldering and, no glue dry time. Even if the shutoff valve is old and leaks, you can install them easily by hand. And then you can immediately restore water pressure. Try that with copper, and you will appreciate the simplicity. It's like the change from cast iron to ABS sewer pipe. They also make a coupler that transitions from polybutylene to copper, PVC, CPVC, or PEX. Just what you need for temporary repairs of old houses and trailers before you re-pipe. One hint for DIYers trying to use the cheap pinch-clamp tools: If you can brace one handle against something solid, then use both hands to push on the other handle, it's a lot easier than using one hand on each handle. You can even brace it against your leg.

I don't know if someone has already mentioned these, but there are three other issues to consider: access, removal, tool cost. One of the main problems with a crimp system (which is what I have, as a casual DIYer) is trying to get access. In tight construction spots, such as in a wall or behind a sink, it can be very difficult (or not possible) to get into a position where the crimper can be used. So, the push-to-connect type system can be very good there. Second, removal can be important. For example, imagine you want to change a faucet or change some pipe connections. If you have to cut off the old connector then you might be in a situation where the PEX is no longer long enough - requiring you to find a way to run a whole new pipe. However, with care, I've used a Dremel-type tool with small cut-off wheel to cut the crimp ring and then remove it. If done carefully this can be done without damaging the PEX. Note: copper rings are easy to cut, stainless steel probably much more difficult to do without damaging the PEX. A new connector can be then be inserted (never had one leak after doing this, carefully). Third, the tools used for these techniques are expensive. A casual DIYer may not have needs that justify spending a lot of money for these tools. So, a push-to-connect option may be the best for such users.

Pinch clamps with the ratcheting tool are the way to go for DIYers. Not super expensive tool, not a lot of force required, and fits into smaller spaces than the other tools.

I loved the video showcasing 5 types of connectors. However, I would have liked to see a demonstration of how to repair a bad crimping job or how to remove a clamp. Thank you for the information.

It'd be great for us DIYers if home stores would add expansion tools to their rental options. Rent it for an afternoon to replumb a bathroom then return it so the next guy can do the same.

Great Video. I live in Chicago and the amount of push back on this and NM wiring still has me shaking my head. What you didn't talk about Is can the connections be removed and reuse the fitting. Here is some FYI if you weren't aware. I found out in my early PEX projects that both the crimp rings and the pinch rings could be removed and the fittings reused, if you did make a mistake. The crimp rings have a removal tool, that can "Pop" the copper ring. The tool has a flat anvil jaw on one side and a cutting jaw on the opposite. Cutting jaw to the outside before you squeeze it. You use you PEX cutter to cut the PEX close to the barbed fitting, Insert the tool in the end of the fitting and over the copper ring and squeeze it. It Pops the ring then you turn the tool to 180 degrees of the cut and squeeze lightly and it opens the copper ring like a butterfly and the copper ring falls off. The fitting can be "reused". For the pinch ring, you can use the same crimp tool turned 90 degrees and it will cut the pinch ring tab off and come apart. Disadvantage of the crimp ring removal is the PEX pipe becomes shorter by the length of the PEX on the barbs. The pinch ring can be removed and not lose any PEX length. It's handy when an elbow was installed when a "T" was needed or if the PEX was supposed to change sizes but the same size fitting was installed.

Us two way radio and CATV installers are very familiar with these. I've always wondered why they didn't use these in plumbing. Thank You very much for showing all these !! On the crimps I use, I can cut off the collette and re- use the connector in the future if desperate and need a connector while up on the mountain. I'm sure you could with these. On a rainy day I go through the cut-offs and recover them for emergency use.

Great vid Matt and Eric. I'm doing a complete replumb on a 60's home in FL. I chose Pex-A for a number of reasons, mainly the cost of the tool (Dewalt) which goes with my other Dewalts. But there a number of other good points you should have mentioned. The maneuverability of the pipe is a big one, it's more flexible than the other systems, and if you do happen to kink it, a little heat and it's as good as new. Can't do that with the others. Another big advantage is the full size/bore fittings. I want as much flow as I can get without any losses due to number of fittings. I did find the fitting cost to be much better than some of the others. I appreciate all your great videos, and especially you're work with Paul and the gang at Stud Pack! Keep up the great work brother!

I started out with pinch based on availability and cost. I had only one joint leak. I switched to Uponor in 2017 mainly to reduce wear and tear on my joints, and also for working in tight spaces. The price of the Milwaukee or Dewalt expansion tool is worth the cost if you are only plumbing one house.

30+ year aircraft/rotorcraft/spacecraft engineer here, leaning back to my personal interests in architectural, mechanical, electrical, and plumbing education to build my own dream home. I gotta say, Eric KICKS ASS! That dude is SUPER quick, ON POINT, and, at times, almost scripted. Make him a REGULAR! Super thanks to giving me the knowledge about a bit of history, what was, what IS, and what the industry colloquially calls each system. AND the perfect amount of personal editorial opinion about what each of you prefer, and when you prefer to bias towards one system or another. BRAVO!!! This video is a MUST watch! Sincere thanks!

Grest video. Im not a plumber but ive used most of these systems. Love the breakdown

I really appreciate this video. It really helps me plan my project.

Very informative. I dont do any plumbing but i like to learn. Thanks!

Great video! I appreciated the breakdown.

Great vid Matt and Eric! I really appreciate the demonstrations on all the types. I have used the PTC on so many plumbing transitions and in tight spaces, but a comment on one of my last plumbing videos caused me to do a double take and re-think using them since the person said they were for temporary use only due to the rubber o-ring. I couldn’t find anything out there that backed up this claim, but I have been thinking a lot of transitioning to expansion fittings and taking the plunge on a Milwaukee expansion tool. Thanks again for the great demos! Best!

Matt, you need to do a show on alternate building types - straw bale, rammed earth construction, ICFs, etc.

Great summary ... very useful!

I replumbed my whole house with pex type b. I used a Zurn manifold with individual valves for each line. Awesome system especially for the diy.

That’s a master plumber for you guys- second half of the video he didn’t know how to operate THE MOST USED AND BOUGHT AYSTEM IN NORTH AMERICA- meaning homeowners, noobs and handymen use and love this system but he somehow cant figure out that the PEX B ring you can easily pinch in place with some pliers before manually crimping. Also, for those that have an M12 ProPress tool, they make PEX B crimps. Note, these are different than the ShortThrow Press tool which could possibly only be a ploy to get stuck with viegas Pureflow system.

I used the next to last style with the copper crimp rings in my remodel. Main reason for me, being a ways from any large city, is it's availability. At least in my area, they are available at almost every home center and hardware store around.

Great upload, I'm 63, and when I moved the hose outlet I used the crimp ring one. But I think I will order a few of the sleeve ones. Just in case I want to do anything else, Like I went under and put valves to the shower.

Great video Matt. Pinch type "Oetiker" is manufactured in Marlette, Michigan.

cool video . very very informative. thank you to both of you.

I've used the pinch type on two houses now (I'm not a plumber but did my own houses). The reason cor the choice of the pinch was the minimal clearance required for the tool (you can crimp a line in a smaller space) and the cost. I like the expansion type but couldn't justify the cost of the tools for low volume... PTC is amazing for any one time repair but as you said, just too expensive for a whole house job. Thanks for the video!

In the gas industry, we used Honeywell Perfection fittings for PE pipe and tubing 2” and below. Almost the same procedure as the Viga, but there was also a chamfer tool that had to be used on the pipe end. So quick to install, for emergency repairs and permanent installs. On the subject of expansion PEX technique- I would love to get into switching over to this from copper for water because the fittings are both quick to install and full port. But I have one reservation, it’s this buzz about small cracks developing in the expansion area and then causing pinhole leaks a year down the road.

It depends on what your hooking that Pex to. If you hook it to something that's not going to get reduced by they faucet connection, as in a utility sink faucet, you'll notice. If you're connecting it to a 1/2" x 3/8" stop valve to a 3/8" faucet connection, such as a bathroom sink, or say a water saver shower system, you won't notice the volume drop. It can be a problem over a long distance. I work in commercial plumbing and I've worked on systems that run 400 ft in a straight shot, and the entire system is over 1000 ft long. You would want to accommodate for that in your sizing. Pex B has a higher burst rate than Pex A, but both are pretty high. Pex A has had problems with people over expanding the expansion ring and it splits behind the collar where the pipe expands. The only place we tend to put Pex on the commercial side, in my experience, is for in-wall plumbing. We either take the copper into the wall to a manifold and Pex it from there, or we have jobs where the in-wall plumbing is Pex to 18" out of the wall in the ceiling space, then it goes to ProPress copper. We usually connect to copper stub-outs, and larger pipes, such as toilets that need flush valves, they get completely done in copper.

Thanks for this great info!

There is also the F2080 Comboloc expansion tool that expands the Pex and then pulls the metal collar tight into the Fitting. Everlock+ and Rehau.

Awesome treatise, guys. One thing that I found out with Upinoor or Wirsbo PEX-A is that the automated expansion tool has a distinct advantage over the less-expensive manual stretch tool, and that is that the stretch head ROTATES on the automated tool as it is stretching. Found out how critical this is because I plumbed an ice-maker feed tube valve with difficult access to the pipe, so my manual tool couldn't rotate much. The connection drip-leaked. I did it again and forced my tool to rotate as best I could and that fixed it. The stretcher head cannot stay in one place, it has to rotate. :)

My house was built in 2019 and uses Upenor pex (thankfully) and where the stubs out the drywall (i.e. toilet, sinks etc..) they used the copper stub outs so it's a solid connector on the outside and like a flimpsy piece of pex that moved around. But all valves in my house are push to connect. Likely they figured they save labor cost over material with less call backs due to leaking compression fittings, and time it takes to put a 3800sqft house worth of valves on for compression vs a quick slip on fitting. 4.5 years and no leaks or anything. All in wall and manifolds where it goes from 1" pipe to multiple 3/4 and 3/4 to multiple 1/2 runs to things like shower valves and sink and toilet, they used the Upenor coñectors there and slip on is only on exposed walls in 4he house.

Very nice video ,thanks

When I flipped my first home in 2014, I didn't recognize cpvc and tried to cement pex to it. It worked fine, for a couple hours. Glad I was still there to hear the water rushing... This was a fun video to see to keep up to date.

I love your videos. They've helped me quite a bit since I'm a "jack of all trades" independent contractor.👍

We use the pinch or aka single ear hose clamp in the CO2 business. These style clamps routinely hold 300 psi of pressure in the CO2 drink/beer dispenser systems.

oetiker clamps are used in many other uses, when i worked as a marine mechanic they were on many different hoses for pressure

Speaking of dry fit, high-rise in downtown Austin 12th floor a dry fit elbow in copper let go on a Saturday afternoon and by the time the security figured out water was coming down the elevator shaft the $600,000 in insurance claims were done. The fitting had been there over 4-years without solder.

Nice video, thank you.

You guys forgot Rehau’s pex system which is a combination of expansion pex and crimp fittings. They call it EVERLOC. Best of both worlds?

If you can do copper and Pex with one tool (propress), that is a huge advantage I don’t really hear mentioned around. Thanks for the video.

I’m a DIY’r. I’m replacing all the water line in the house we bought. The house is getting a serious update. I decided to bite the bullet and go with expansion pex. Bought the expensive tool to do it with. Going to install a manifold system in a water closet.

Excellent vid

This plumber is the man. Straight shooter. Smart and no stupid unproven biases.

A 90* fitting increases the resistance to flow by 10x compared to street el or curved fitting. I had 90's on an hydraulic oil system that kept blowing off the hoses. My hydraulic engineer neighbor told me to use curved fittings and the issue was fixed.

Do all methods work equally well with all plumbing fixtures? Maybe some fixtures support the expansion method and other fixtures work with any of the other clamping methods?

I'd be great to see a follow-up video demonstrating differences in disassembly / removal of fittings, along with re-usability of the removed fittings across these different connection types. I have the most experience with the pinch and crimp PEX-B setups and own the tool for cutting the crimp rings from PEX-B -- So I'm unsure how easy it is to free a PEX-A fitting for potential re-use.. The king of re-usability would clearly be the PTC fittings.

Is it necessary to use the ratchet clamp tool on the stainless pinch (oetiker style) clamp rings? I have been using the Oetiker clamps for years on different projects (not household plumbing) and I use the Knipex oetiker clamp pliers, and they work fine. I don't mind buying the "correct" ratchet tool, but right now I only need to do about 6-8 clamps for a small project. Thanks.

I am installing a 1/2 inch 3 way ball valve in my motorhome. I have very little space in back of the valve and need to use a 1/2 inch NPT to PEX B elbow. When I tighten the pipe elbow, it orients away from where I need it pointing. What can I use to get the threads tight and in the direction I need it pointing to?

What are the maximum water temperatures that can run through the tubing and fittings? Thanks.

Great video Matt.

The stainless pinch fittings are great especially if you use the Ryobi electric pinching machine. It is definitely worth the money if you ever need to get into tight quarters.

A lot to consider here. As both a trade professional and a DIY'er, I'd like to add a few observations of my own. PINCH: If you look closely at a pinch type ring, contact with the pipe is not consistent as with a crimp ring and requires EXACT placement and a complete pinch...however, when changes or mistakes come along, the pinch ring can be easily removed. They are great for temporary, post construction, tight spaces, or small projects. PUSH: Push type aka "shark bite" imo, should only be used for temporary repairs. Every mechanic as well as NASA will tell you, O-rings will eventually fail. Additionally, the shark bite design uses teeth that after years of pressure and expansion, will create a score into the OD and thus, a weak point...Long before PolyB started to decay from chlorine and was phased out, I repaired gaggles of polybutylene fittings that relied on a shark bite similar style "grab ring" which scored into the pipe where it eventually cracked. Mark my words, some day, push-in fittings will be the subject of class action suits. EXPANSION: although great in many ways as the video mentioned, I don't trust plastic as a long term compressive force. Molecules being forced apart do have a memory, but time and heat (such as in Arizona attics) eventually win. It may not be in my lifetime or even the next, but eventually, the expansion rings will crack, the pex will age and lose its memory, and water pressure will win. IMO. My rule...stick with time tested....If inaccessible (like a wall cavity) use copper or PexB compression or pinch ring. Cold water Supply or long runs AND accessible (basement, crawl space, use PexA expansion ....mainly due to the ID of the fittings. Hot climate attic, upsized PexB 1st, PexA 2nd. *** The cost of one leak will by far outweigh any price variables.

Really helpful! Some tips: ProPress continues copper connections and current/ground. Environmental issues with copper in say, a pool house, would be better with Pex. Same with stainless fittings is some caustic or wet areas is better than copper or metal rings. Pex is susceptible to UV like sunlight, so an open-framed house in construction, you don't want Pex exposed to sunlight. And some Pex I've encountered (milky white) gets brittle under heat like a condensate pump from a furnace. ProPress/Press tools like Milwaukee are $$$$ and require sending to manufacturer after a number of presses to "re-calibrate" which for a plumber is downtime. ProPress/Viega fittings are very good but costly versus tradition sweat on copper. However, time is money but also saves the customer costs and adds value, along with easier on you in confined spaces. Matt- perhaps a second mic for these so we can hear you as clear as your guests?

I Anya plumber and will only use type A(with expansion sleeve) or pro press type fittings. I feel those are the most secure ones of the bunch. The “shark bite” type is great for emergency repair situations, and some guys end up just leaving them permanently installed. Not what I would do if it was my house, or customers for that matter. Also if rodents get into where the piping is they love to naw or chew on the plastic and then you got a frickin mess, seen it a handful of times.That’s why rigid copper is so much more durable, but…. they both have their pros and cons.

O-rings can cut during install. Any oring fitting has some more risk. Orings also can seal very well. Deburr edges to reduce the risk. Great video, thank you.

I can give you a few reasons why pex b is most popular, 1, I live in SC and pex b was all you could get from the supply house and from places like Lowes/Home Depot(years later, pex a showed up). 2, the pipe, fittings, tools are a lot cheaper for b, 3 Other reports say pex a leaches more chemicals into the water. The rings for a are bigger, when drilling through concrete, smaller bits are less expensive. The pinch type has a much smaller/cheaper tool, 1 size fits all. And just my opinion, I would not allow a shark bite fitting in my house, other than an emergency, have to wait to the next day to get it fixed kind of deal, why, it has a O-ring, in my 50 years of mechanic work, I have NEVER seen an O-ring that hasn't failed at some point, all types will fail at some point, but O-rings usually much sooner.

May, can you find out for certain about Uponor A cracking and leaking? I’m seeing videos where people are now having problems. It appears to be the red pex where the problem is. Could be the pex itself and being left out in the sun. Comment were made that they’ve now gone away from the red pex and just use white pex with red or blue writing in the tube for hot or cold. I will need to re-pipe my house some day as it’s still using poly but the owner builder did a decent job of crimping all the fittings. It’s even used in the hydronic system which makes me nervous but it means breaking concrete. Thanks.

The pinch clamps don't slide after a single click but still easy to move. Really easy to use. Bad part of pinch clamps is they grab your skin after the install. 1 tool for 1/2-3/4-1 inch not sure if they make bigger and smaller sizes.

I use the pinch clamps for irrigation!

Old boats made in the 80s have "pex" connections. Many years prior to its use in residential. If it withstands marine use, obviously, it's great for residential. My 1986 Carver never has had a leak, all original.

The black rings crimped pex, someone said to use channel lock pliers plastic handles and squeeze the black ring slightly in proper place & then use the proper crimp tool.

Im pex A with brass fittings, only because thats what i saw when i started in 2002 and going back to those houses for service calls nobody has had an issue, it might not be the best but its something i can say i trust

A nice feature of the crimp is you can cut the ring and redo it if necessary, also the shark bit can be removed like temporary using caps and removing them after rough-in…

Great demo. Would have been nice to see the Zurn Pex B expansion demo and tool since it is said to be more durable than uponor pex A and pex B leaches less chemicals than pex A (just from information online). Hard feelings towards Viega since they came out with polybutelene and have failed to help out on 9 different projects.

It’s helpful to know that fittings and pipes are compatible by their ASTM compliance. A pipe will be marked with “ASTM xxxxx” to tell you what fittings it can use. This is true regardless of PEX type. Some makers like Zurn and Sioux Chief don’t even bother labeling them as “PEX A” or “B” because that’s not what’s actually important. I’m interested in Rehau EVERLOC. It’s an expansion fitting but instead of the double layer of PEX that shrinks back, a brass sleeve is pulled onto the joint.

No discussion is complete without mentioning product recall history.

Oetiker are like expandable to temp pressure to always keep constant pressure. German...used on all kinds of stuff otekier clamps

Expansion Pex is the only one really worth considering. While the expansion tool is expensive, the sleeves are cheap, and it is fast. But, the main benefit is that Pex-A is constantly trying to revert back to its original size. What this means, is that the moment you put on an Expansion Pex fitting, it is at its weakest that it will ever be. You can actually remove it for a few seconds, and twist it for a minute or so, but the connection gets tighter and stronger with time. All the others fittings, they are at their strongest the moment the proper connection is made, and they all become weaker over time. Stronger over time, beats weaker over time.

I used this crimp ring system on my house, the main down side is its use in tight places. But there is a block tool that is slow but works well in a tight area. A power tool would be better for tight areas. House is twelve years old, I have had to failed fittings, but they were cracks in the brass fittings, not the crimp rings. But did the stress of the crimping crack the fitting? I would crimp, turn 90 degrees and crimp again for a more uniform crimp.

I've never met a plumber that would recommend push fittings for anything. PEX home run manifold is the way to go, at least in smaller homes.

Thanks

What size pipe needs to be used in NC, when hooking up to septic tank on a 3 bdrm?

You can over expand. I had a helper who had arranged to take off one afternoon. We were working with 1 1/4 pex a. He literally left the pex expander in the pipe and left. I came maybe as long as 30 minutes later and found it. I put the fitting in waiting a little and let go and it fell out. I had to climb down a ladder get it get back up and could still put it in and still had to hold it a while before it grabbed it

With PTC, the PEX of applied properly, will hold the full pressure of PEX without leakage or failure, until the PEX finally bursts. It takes as long or longer to install as any other system by the time your chamfer the end, and mark it. The disadvantage of both most crimp and the PEXA, is that you have to have a different tool for each size of tubing. The quickest is the crimps with a stainless crimp band. You only need one tool, to crimp any pipe size. Another advantage, is that the engineering on the bands was imported from the band clamps on universal joints on cars. And you can buy linear installation tools which have a handle you spin, instead of clamp like pliers.

what about the stainless steel rings? How do you feel about them? I liked them because it was easier to get a crimp in a tight space because of the way the tool can be oriented in relationship to the pipe.

I like the Uponor because of the constant tension provided by the expansion then the pressure resulting from the collar constantly trying return to its original form

The black coating on the Pex-B copper rings are designed to prevent oxidation of the copper over time. Regular, uncoated copper pex rings in humid or wet areas are susceptible to oxidation, which over time can break down and damage the ring; eventually leading to failure.

I run into sharkbite failures all the time, and it's always on copper. They don't bite the copper well and most diyers aren't installing them correctly. But I'll use them on plastic for service calls all day long because they are quick. Other than the recent lawsuit I'd say uponor is the best, now I'm not sure

We have an older hydronic heating system that uses ½" orange PEX. The fittings are brass with a toothed inner sleeve that slides into the PEX. Then you slide a split ring ferrule with angled surfaces over the sleeve area, and tighten the ferrule with a nut that compresses the ferrule. Does this have a name? I'm trying to find replacements!

Uponor also makes a tool-less "pinch" type connector for DIYers; pretty good, albeit pricey.

I had several brass fittings corrode and fail. We do have well water. One of the brass fittings actually broke off at the water heater , what a nightmare. Fittings were about 6 years old. Replacing all the fittings with stainless steel fittings . Should solve the problem.

Audio is fine. On phone

Sharkbite has saved me in so many repairs. Repairs get very costly when a house is plumbed wrong, and it can be difficult to find honest repairmen. With that said, the PTC introduced me to the other methods that i also now use, but the PTC allows for easier installation in confined spaces, or by disabled personnel. I am no expert but still learned some things in this video. Thank you for covering so many types of connectors and the tools needed.

Idk why....i got in the habit of crimping the copper ring once....then a second 90 degree from the first. Good show.

for all of these options, how easy/hard are they to remove? pinch clamps (option 5) are easy with a special tool

PEX is a polyethylene material which has undergone a change in molecular structure using a chemical or a physical process whereby the polymer chains are chemically linked. Crosslinking of the polymer chains of polyethylene (HDPE) into PEX for pipes results in improved properties such as elevated temperature strength and performance, flexibility, chemical resistance, environmental stress crack resistance (ESCR), resistance to slow crack growth (SCG), toughness, and abrasion. Crosslinking makes PEX a "semi-thermoset" polymer, providing excellent long-term stability.

I bought my clear pex a pipe at my local plumbing store. It was the 3/4 ". . It seemed very stiff- it didn't flex enough to make connection between two "pipes" 18". I did get it to fit and made a secure leak free connection. Next time I will use a swivel NPT fitting. SO MY QUESTION IS _IS ANY BRAND NORE FLEXIBLE THAN ANOTHER? the 1/2 " PEX A seems very flexible . I did use a heat gun -didn't help. "homeowner - no plumber available"

Question: is there an advantage or disadvantage to using the black plastic or brass (straight and elbows) fittings? Also, what PEX crimping device do you recommend for RV application? Thank you.

I had a failure with the pinch type. A buddy and I ran the water to my kitchen remodel. A few weeks after the paint was dry in the kitchen, I noticed a large bubble forming behind the paint over the sink. My buddy came over and we found where the clamp was leaking. A replication of the pinch sealed it. I was able to drain the water out of the bubble with just a small wrinkle in the paint, We both learned how important it is to get a good pinch. We are planning a remodel of both bathrooms soon. I will make sure that everything is pinched well.

Do all of these work equally well with the three types of PEX tubing? I have a bunch of tubing I got at an auction and they didn’t come with the information about what they are. Seems like PTC is interchangeable whereas expansion only works with PEX A, but maybe you can “expand” on that information a bit? My auction situation isn’t common but arriving at a house and finding unlabeled PEX already installed has to be a daily occurrence for a lot of people.

From what I've seen, replacing a trunk system with Pex A maintains the flow needed for multiple outlets because of the larger fitting bore, where a Pex B system would restrict the flow too much because of the smaller fitting bore. If plumbing from scratch, with a separate run to each outlet, it isn't a problem because there are very few connectors used. Final note, your Milwaukee Pex expander wasn't rotating between expansions. If the expansion tool doesn't rotate it will create a fault and will leak.

Those pinch connectors (or something very similar) are used all over automotive applications these days. I abhor them. Plenty reliable, but just a PITA within the tight confines of a vehicle.

Great informative video, but why didn't you mention pex-al-pex pipe & compression fittings?

Your plumber used the depth tool incorrectly. You should first score and level the ends of the tube by twisting it in the tool, THEN mark the depth with a marker. It's a crucial first step and ensures a water tight connection. Another PRO that was missed with PTC/Sharkbite is that you can reposition the tubing without disconnecting or you can disconnect/reconnect with the removal tool. It's probably a reason for the increased cost but overall it's great! In a future video you may want to cover the thermal expansion relief valve which eliminates the need for an expansion tank! Good times!

Viega ... it all started in Germany with taps for beer kegs .... not in Bavaria but Westphalia.

Ever try Boshart stainless steel PEX fittings?

Would love to have you show Zurn expansion ring with PEX-B

Great video, just wish y’all would of said which Pex version is compatible with each of the 5 methods. Pex A, Pex B or both Pex A & Pex B. I personally know but for the sake of the video, I could see some DIY’rs get mixed up