Hey William's plumbing and heating. Did you know they make cold expansion rings now? Closes in the cold and wont slip off if wet. They have been out for about a year.

I think this video has pretty misleading information about cost and working in tight spaces because the existence of cinch clamp is completely ignored.

Just what I was looking for. All channels requests to tap the LIKE button. Your presentation deserves the LIKE click!!! 👏 best "xplainer?"

I hate PEX. I find it very difficult to get a good solder joint.

sorry pex isn't stable long term. learn your craft first

good to know. i never knew it.

I was just about to ask this question. Awesome! Cheers.

Yup, I have some Viega pex B and pureflow my plumber put in. But I am going to do few showers later and Im going with type A. Eventually I will transition those but you can still use make a transition between pex A and B with the crimp fittings. Only thing is Uponor does not warranty that joint and the warranty time on the system is lowered overall. But this is does not matter to a DYIer since their work wont be covered regardless

Confusing messages beyond belief. My plumber friend told me you can also expand type B pex and use expansion fittings on that. Just bought the sharkbite tool and used the copper ring system.

@@motorbreath7174 just make sure its fully inserted, and the tube ends and even and burr free. those sharkbites are the least reliable joining method, usually because its relying on pressing against an oring and staying held in place

Thank you, Mark! More breakdown videos coming soon.

Glad this helped. Thanks for watching!

🎉Hi Reggie great post If I were living in your area I’d help you complete the rest of your DIY plumbing I love DIY projects …as for locating OLD COPPER PIPES in the walls they do make an excellent tool that WILL locate all Magnetic (wires and such) AND NON MAGNETIC (copper is non magnetic) it sells for about $20-$50 depending on the Brand you buy. The Zircon brand is a decent price of about $20-$35 I’ll bet Lowes or Home Depot sells It. Yet if you 😢🎉have access to the internet i feel pricing and delivery is sooo much better like on Amazon. Now if you own a good Stud finder you can also use it to find where and if it goes thru a stud to the fixture site like to where the cabinet is. You should have it easier with the two tools and good batteries I also like PEX A due to it being able to take freezing better decreasing the chance of rupturing. Ohhhh and when it comes to the rest of your plumbing you really should look for the UTube video that talks about using a “MANIFOLD” system to set up and attach and bring each Hot and Cold PEX line NEATLY/ORGANIZED INTO A “Manifold System Set UP it’s located where the main cold water intake comes into the house at the hot water tank site (attaching It to the manifold) and to the hot water heater and from the hot water heater out to the “Manifold device” which will have each and every single cold and hot water PEX line going to each fixture/appliance water in an emergency since each PEX line will come into the Manifold having its very own shut off valve on EACH PEX LINE And if you have just one pex line running to each fixture no splicing needed the PEX can literally be run enormous lengths without the need to splice for added length Ive run it 30 feet I like the 1” gives better water pressure even with short lengths I don’t have to worry pressure is seats great. All Good luck and I’m looking forward to seeing a DIY video of the work you did. Oh your studs can be anywhere from 12”-16” to( 18” very rare) on center I’d look up the building code for the year it was built it should be posted. Wish you lived near me id help you I Love to do renovations and DIY projects. Ohh btw I’ve used closed cell insulation in the walls (exterior annnnnd interior) the ceilings and the ROOF not only did it make the best vapor barrier but it is amazing how it insulates the PEX and literally fills in where any and all air leaks were and made the house cheaper to heat and cool by hundred of dollars and depending on how big the house and are is I got the company to negotiate their price with me too. It’s going to cost us lots of money this winter I think. Check out the Manifold Device. I’ll bet it’s a big help for you like it’s for me feel free to email or text

@@dianedomey3749 I've got to fix the water burst up in the attic too after the freeze in Texas.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks, Jerry. Glad you found this helpful!

Steven Thompson Thanks, Steven. Glad you saw this at the right time!

dont splice it just replace it if its already splitting open it will continue

Gadget Allen Glad to help. Thanks for watching!

Every review I have seen says you need some serious muscles to use it

@@deadmanswife3625 go to a plumbing supply house like Ferguson and get a one handed crimp tool. You need one for each size of pex but way easier to use. Can crimp 3/4 and 1/2 with little effort as long as you’re not crimping sideways over your head.

@@SudoVII ty

I worked on both Million dollar homes to Mobile homes. I Hated Quest. I generally ran copper in most cases. I installed Water treatment systems and installed Well Pumps both Submersible and Jet Pumps. I also had the “Pleasure” of working on Piston Water Pumps.. I really like PEX. I generally recommend 3/4 Type B due to pressure and volume concerns with 1/2”. I prefer the SS pinch clamps because of space issues. My Most installed item locally was Water Softeners. Some areas around me can have up to 20 GPG. Which is Very Hard water..

Great point!

But how many of the cheap guys who don't know what they're doing (I work in an area where licenses are only required in the cities) are NOT running homeruns because they're installing the cheapest system they can?

Probly not by the book right but I basically made my own manifold using 3/4 inch pex and T fittings. 3/4 in 3/4 out with 1/2 inch off the side and then the third and final T is 3/4 in 1/2 out with 1/2 out the side one line running to my sink the other to my bath. So the main line is 3/4 inch with 1/2 inch line running off that to each tap. Think I can get away with that, My thinking was the 3/4 mainline to 1/2 would give me good pressure, same idea as having a 3/4 manifold with 1/2 lines. Small off grid cabin artesian well with a shit ton of water pressure feeding a kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub and toilet.

Good point I've not seen anyone say anything about expansion and contraction so I was just going to leave a bit of slack in th lines to compensate. Thanks for the tip

Thanks you I thought it was just me. I have being using pex B for yr and there no Such. Think and reducing pressure.

Reducing volume = reducing pressure once the volume the fixture uses (shower or whatever) exceeds the volume and the connection can pass.

They don't reduce pressure while the water is stationary, but as it starts to move, they restrict the flow, and the venturi effect creates low pressure downstream.

When I was younger I always thought that bigger pipe meant it could carry more pressure but it’s kinda the opposite. Yes the type b will reduce volume size for size vs type a but it’s almost more important to me to have better pressure especially in the shower.

Fluid pressure is created by a resistance to flow. Has absolutely nothing to do with volume. It's called physics... Or more specifically... Fluid dynamics.

Both are rated for far more pressure than you're likely to get in your water supply. Like the difference between using a 1/2" bolt vs a 3/8" bolt for hanging a picture. 😂

long live Pex B

So glad you found this helpful! And thanks for subscribing - we’ve got more videos coming soon.

I would have thought the money you save on a single plumber visit would pay for the tools you need! Which is really just the crimp tool and pipe shears.

@@alexanderSydneyOz Issue I was trying to state is that if wanted to use Pex A and Rehau or Uphonor I have to pay for a plumber. I can't get those tools or parts without paying potentially thousands, which makes a one-off plumber visit cheaper. So I was forced to switch to Pex B and crimp connections as those parts and tools are muuuuch cheaper than a plumber visit.

I like the pinch ring style better also never had one leak and it's harder to mess it up.

That is something I was wondering about. Which type would be better. I think Im going to go with the steel cinch rings and not the copper. Now I just have to buy the tool and maybe pick up some some basic fittings along with a bag or two of the steel bands. That way Im ready to fix that pipe at 8pm on a sat night. Most stores around here are closed by 6pm mon - sat and most are closed on sunday.

could have had the tools for 80 dollars

*coat pocket -- great idea

Glad this helped you. Good luck on that project!

I was wondering about heat tape as well.

That's exactly what he means

Look it up it does not have a greater burst pressure...

I have owned a few mobiles, all in northern Michigan. If you live in a very cold climate with a home just set on blocks i suggest running most of the lines through the heat ducts. It sounds dumb probably not to code 😆 but i stopped having frozen lines

@@ktanner11 thanks for the tip but I'm in AZ. Just a few nights below freezing.

I was just going to type that too. If one likes cancer then go with Pex-A.. Sure it’s easier to work with but, sure wouldn’t want to be drinking from those pipes. Also, never leave PEX pipe exposed to sun light and never let it be exposed to fluorescent light. So, make sure it’s wrapped in foam insulation if it’s in a basement setting that’s exposed to that kind of lighting.

You pretty much destroyed the guy and I kind of feel bad for him

Use a street elbow or two 45's

Especially when considering the necessary upsizing to get the same flow rate.

@@STARDRIVE And the more expensive fittings for Pex B. Pex A all the way. And don't waste your money on the battery powered expansion tools, the manual tool works just fine at 1/3 the cost. Especially for a homeowner repiping his own house.

It's really just a selling point, because the supply lines are smaller than the reduction of the fittings. So you are correct

My house has half inch copper pipes. I'm in the middle of changing it all to 3/4" all the way up until the fixtures. Will upgrading the size to 3/4 give better flow?? I hope so. All though it goes back down to half inch for each fixture

@@MattyDemello you should be able to get around 12 to 15 GPM out of 1/2 inch copper pipe, and around 22 to 25 GPM out of 3/4 copper pipe ,alittle less out of PEX , but your faucets or shower can't handle that much water flow.

@@MattyDemello According to code the most you can run is up to 4 fixtures per 3/4 inch line. So if you run a 3/4" line across the house you can branch off to every bath or kitchen or whatever with 1/2 as long as it does not exceed the fixture load per 3/4 " line, if the fixture load exceeds that then you would run 3/4" to the first drop or branch of the bath or whatever you going to then down 1/2". I plumb this with pex, cpvc, and even copper when it was cheaper back then and it all has the same pressure and or volume for each product. Like I mentioned before if you follow the 3/4" per fixture load no problem.

@@jwblount7802 it depends on how long of run you have by code 1/2 inch line 40 ft or less can carry 4 fixtures I wouldn't recommend it , but a 3/4 line can carry 12 fixtures up to 100 ft by code. Some inspectors will let you get away with more.

and the new plastic fitting work well on all of my rental installs

My truck was broken into and 3 rolls of pex taken. Can you please call the bad guys and give them the memo. They didn't get it

For recirculating systems like hydronic heat you use the Orange PEX.

How do u know what type of pex do u have

Your expander head wasn’t spinning

Copper!

I prefer pex a but no one around here carry’s it. I have to order it in large quantities so I can use it on my jobs

Time to erase that video and start from scratch. What makes a PEX expandable is ASTM F1960. AND NOT "A" or "B". There are PEX B available that are F1960. So most of your video is oudated and should be replaced. Because you pros and cons are almost all false.

thats not the "whole point of PEX" 🤡

So you never use elbows, tees, couplings, valves, and anything else? You simply have pipes connected to nothing, going nowhere? "Tell me you are not a plumber and have no clue, without telling me you are not..."

This is definitely true. I recently started a remodel in my basement bathroom and the old coper was a mess so ripped it out and bought the Milwaukee expansion tool after doing my research a few months back. Then come to find my home depot in my area doesn't carry Pex A. Luckily for me we have a plumbing supply store and they carried everything I needed for Pex A

Thanks! Glad to help!

Right ? 😂