A few tips: 1) heat the work pieces completely before adding solder 2) move your torch, not the part unless it is tight-fitting or clamped 3) flip your part over so you are heating from below (there's a good chance you'll get a cold solder joint which will break by soldering the way you demonstrated here 4) the strongest joints are those that air cool, prematurely cooling a solder joint will change the atomic structure causing it to be more brittle.

I was just watching how to solder copper pipe and then this video pops up, pretty cool buddy. Shine on

Thank you for sharing this with us. You made it look so easy to do , compared to the many other videos of folks struggling to get it done. Thanks again 🙏

Learned alot ..Great video.

You need a phosphoric acid based flux to burn off the oxide layer from the stainless. That’s what makes it stainless and nothing will stick to it You also need a silver containing solder I used a Harris stay -bright silver bearing solder kit. it has about 6 feet of 3/64” 96/4 % antimony/ silver solder And a 1/2 oz bottle of stay-clean flux It makes the job effortless, and costs about $17 online or at our local welding supply The best technique I’ve found is to: -sand/ scotch bright the area -Fit everything into place -Wrap the solder around the joint forming a ring -Wet the joint with flux (It’s about like water) -Apply heat to the area but no directly on the solder, until the solder melts and is drawn into the joint -add heat where needed to get a clean uniform bead I was so impressed, I’ve ordered a larger bottle of flux and roll of solder to have on hand for future projects, repairs and alterations

Used to do it all the time in the gas industry. Stay-silv 65%, stay-silv flux, and oxyacetylene torch with small tips. SS to carbon steel too.

It's a good idea to not move the piece while soldering it. You will notice in your video that the copper pulled away a few times from the stainless as you turn it.

Easier cheaper way is to use neat brick acid (really cheap) and apply to the stainless to pickle the surface, apply regular flux to the copper and away you go. Works every time.

Nice work brother

Great to see a Dewalt with the old battery, I still use mine too. I’ve got the whole bag of tools

I love your vids man keep it up

Hi great video i want to make one of these but im from the uk and cant get ruby flux here any suggestions what i coukd use

how interesting to find you are a moonshiner because i was wondering if i could solder or braze ss to cu in order to use a larger size pot for my still where i need to put on a copper nipple onto a ss lid for the cooper worm connection and if the heat from a regular propane torch is enough for this job

I know people who try to do this Without watching a Video like this then end up burning the steel because everything got TOO hot before braze was even applied, It's shame now I have to take it all apart again just to clean the steel and. Copper again. Thanks for your Great basics Here 🇺🇸👍.

good info bro thanks a ton

Can I use this same flux and solder to solder copper to Copper? Are you saying Oatey #5? Thanks

Nice job you done there, I used silver solder for my ss ferrules too copper, will be looking to get some of that liquid and give it bash. Hey Phill I made a mash late in the summer last year, I strained the the corn off and stored the wash in a sealed barrel to run this year. Will it still be usable. ?

I couldnt get this to work. I tig copper to ss with copper wire filler a little ezer if you have a tig welder

Looks pretty😎 Bet it won’t hold any pressure!!

The flux is zinc chloride solution. Whoever found this out should get the Nobel Prize. Some people make it by mixing small cut pieces of the jacket of AA battery and chlorine based toilet cleaner.! I heard lemon juice and salt does the same.

A Phill. Where can I get some of this soldering fluid from ? Checked Amazon and Ebay could not find any.

Sometimes a pressure fit can work for a while.

Any strong acid works - muriatic, phosphoric, sulfuric, etc. Stay-Brite solder/flux combo works well as does Harris “Silv” solder/flux.

Stay bright liquid Flux is what I been using and if you will heat above the joint it will pull the soilder up into the joint

Why not use bronze? copper and stainless are relatively close on the galvanic scale, but corrosion *does* happen over a couple years. Where if you used bronze, you wouldn't have the issue ever.

I'm literally wearing that same exact shirt

Work for stainless to stainless as well. For ferals for heating element’s

Would this work to put a bulkhead fitting on a keg? Or do you have a video about that?

Dig in the Zep shirt….😊

Brick acid from a builders supplies... 👍...also better to use a copper soldering iron instead of a flame..

Everybody's always soldering a copper pipe to a stainless steel ferrel. How bout somebody making a 3inch copper pipie out of sheet Cooper then soldering that to stainless steel barrel or a copper horse head to a stainless steel barrel? Cant find anything anywhere on it.

Thank goodness you can do it .. I’d burn down the house..

You should always heat the fitting first. Never put the solder in the flame the heat from the fitting will Wick the solder into the joint properly common stuff for anybody that's ever sweated copper

Nice job that’s not easy

I am a grown woman! Lmao