Glad it was helpful!

Me too, especially when they break and I can fix them.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks for the compliment, I'm working on more.

Thanks for sharing

Hi Bruno, I would look for hidden screws. Possibly underneath rubber feet stuck on the bottom.

You can download the manual from here which shows how to dismantle the unit. elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=Philips%20az1065&kategoria=&kat2=all

@@ChasLarge Hi Mr. Chase, I have found 2 little screws inside the device, now the 2 halves of the Philips AZ 1065 are separated and I can try to find the damage. Thank you so much for you useful kindness (also for the link).

Probably, can only guess. Try blowing the dust out with compressed air.

Thanks for the appreciation. According to the service manual, there are no adjustments for the CD mechanism or circuitry, all adjustments would have been made in the factory using computer controlled changes to the firmware. There is a LASER POWER adjustment potentiometer on the Optical Block PCB but this should NEVER be adjusted without using a LASER power meter and suitable eye protection. If the CD is not playing correctly, clean the optical block with short bursts of compressed air and apply molyslip grease to the sled drive rail. If that fails, replace the optical block.

@@ChasLarge thank you very much for your help!

Hi David, well you've carried out the basics, well done. The skipping, especially when the BASS is turned up, would tend to point to a loss of the signal back to the signal processor due to vibration, which could either be poor focus or poor tracking. Most modern CRs have a built in buffer for the data to overcome physical shock losing the track, so the extra BASS would appear to be causing more shock than the buffer can handle. A check of the RF waveform from the processor would show how good the signal is. You can download a service manual from here: elektrotanya.com/sony_cfd-750l_cfd-760l_cd_radio_cassette_sm.pdf/download.html#dl See page 14 for the RF waveform check. I would check the height of the turntable - see page 3, as sometimes these can be pushed down by inadvertent excessive force when putting the disc in. You could put the unit into SERVICE MODE - see page 13 and check the CD adjustments signals, don't adjust unless necessary and you are confident. Mark the pot positions before making any adjustments so you can put them back. Hope this helps. If you want me to have a look at the unit for you, please contact me via my email -> Channel Page -> About.

Thank you much for your reply and I will try what you have explained. Not sure it would be cost effective to have you check it out since I live in California, however, thank you for your offer and extended info. Your the best!!!

@@davidnavarro6115 Happy to help. Maybe you'll find another US based KZfaq repairer who could help. Sorry I can't. Good luck.

Try ebay?

Hi Brian, I'd volunteer to fix your unit for you but the shipping to and fro the UK would outweigh the benefit of the fix. Repair shops began to go out of business in the mid 90s. I closed shop when people could buy a new VCR for the equivalent cost of repairing their old machine. I used to charge £20 + parts + tax for a basic repair, and now folk balk at the same costs, even though £20 is worth approximately %50 if it's value back in the 90s.

Yes. CD lasers fail due to age, so if there is no light visible it could be the laser.

If you're eferring to my actions at 41:22 in the video, I was removing the shorting link on the PCB which is put there by the manufacturer of the replacement part, to protect the laser from static damage. If you don't remove it, he laser will not light. It's just a blob of solder across two points on the laser PCB.

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