I can't put to words how helpful it is that you break down piece by piece what each command does. I've seen many a video just gloss over that and it leaves me with no confidence in what I'm doing. I consider myself pretty tech-savvy but even I struggle to grasp this stuff sometimes.

You have a 6th sense of knowing what I’ve been putting off. Last time it was the wire end ferrules, which I completed after your last video, and now it’s PID tuning. I have no excuse to put it off anymore thanks!

Thanks! I've been getting thermal runaway, so I'm using that as an excuse to replace my board, extruder, and thermistor, etc. I'll be running through this test later today and will let you know how it goes! Appreciate how simple your video was. It helps me feel more prepared, less intimidated, etc.

I've watched a few videos on PID tuning, and this was by far the most concise and easiest to follow. Great work.

Recently found your channel while upgrading my printer. The 2 videos I've seen of yours were concise and easy to understand. Best videos on the topics. Good job!

Great video! For those looking to do the same tune on the bed you can use M303 E-1 S60. The E-1 tells the printer to test the bed (E0 was for hotend) and S60 tells to test to 60 Celsius. You set these values by using M304 just like setting the hotend temps with M301. Then M500 to save like Brian shows.

With a little farm of 5 cheap and cranky printers I revisit this video every couple of months, what a great resource! Thanks Bryan!

Video saved me once again. I followed your instructions a year ago and just installed a new hot end. The hot end is the same brand but I could tell the PID was off a bit. Found your video and did it over. Thanks.

This helped so much. I was getting poor quality shells and now they are paper smooth. Thank you.

Thank you very much for this comprehensive guide! I also used the PID Autotune on my heatbed for the ender 3v2 after putting an insulation beneath it.

This was perfect! I had a machine that I was getting overtemp errors on so I changed entire hot end (just easier since I had 2 spares in my parts) and still got the error. I found your video through ALL3DP and followed it to the letter and so far success. Hope I am not premature but looks great so far. Thank you so much for the content. Now on to the next problem. I upgraded one machine to 4.2.7 silent board and smoked the board on power up. Have a short somewhere I have to find before I smoke another $40.00

Wow I just did this and I am shocked how much of an improvement it made, especially on the first layer. Great video!

Thank you! I don't have octoprint set up on my printer and most guides for auto tune use it. This saved me!

Awesome video! The step by step guide and explaining what each variable did was a tremendous help. Greatly appreciate it!

Happy to hear someone calling a PID by it's letters (P-I-D) and not like a single word (pid). As an engineer I approve this and got subscribed.

Thanks Brian a really helpful video after updating my Ender 6 hot end to a mosquito & Bondtech DDX. Great work.

Thank you man, this was really useful in helping me figure out my problem. If anybody is overshooting their nozzle temp by 30+ degrees it could mean that you're using a 12v heater instead of a 24v one. So that's what all that blue smoke was.

oh my god this video literally saved my business haha i was so scared my printer wouldnt work right again. THANK YOU for taking the scary out of Pid Tuning!!!!

This explains so much as I regularly used to swap SD cards between my Ender 3's and my Pro 3D V-King and I got problems that magically went away when I set up Octopi on my V-King

Thank you for this video. By far the most useful and easiest video to follow. Great job keep it up!

Thank you for sharing this. Using this info has helped me improve the temps of my Ender 6 hot end.

Just the video I needed to find after switching out my hotend hardware. Great stuff

Thanks! My silicone boot sht the bed and my printer kept going into thermal runaway protect. This worked perf! If the printer doesn’t connect do a restart on your pc and make sure you’re using a sync cable.

Great video and was helpful even a year later. I like how the pro firmware has it now built in so can do it from the screen.

I just set up my 2nd Ender 3 Pro, and out of the box the Hot end temp was bouncing. When set to 205 I was seeing it go from 201-209. Ran this process and now it sits at a steady temp like it should. One thing to mention about pronterface, make sure you don't have another slicer program open, or it won't connect to your printer. I didn't realize I still had Cura open in the back ground and was going crazy trying to figure out why I couldn't connect. Once I closed that, everything worked like it was supposed to. Thank you so much for this video.

Thank you for demystifying this process for me. I appreciate all of the explanations and reasoning for doing things a specific way.

Love a good PID Tune video. I would add make sure your Slicer is closed, otherwise Pronterface will fail to connect. Remember each laptop sticker adds 5% more processing power!

Think of the challenge that birthed the PID process/math being you and your friend in a car trying to drive a constant speed...you're driving but your friend is the only one that can see the speedometer. Your friend tells you faster or slower as they see the speed on the gauge. If you are in a F1 racer, you're going to have a different experience than if you and your friend were in a Chevy Spark. The PID process can be thought of as a mechanism that attaches to the gas pedal of the F1 so the results of accelerating/decelerating are not so dramatic.

That was super straight forward, thank you. Even when I read the official documentation, I just need a KZfaq video to walk me through it just in case. I mean worst case scenario, my house burns down with me in it, so I'm hesitant to mess with the thermistor tuning.

Awesome explanation! Been having this problem all day, no other videos/websites even suggested this as a factor and I'm going to be doing this right away!

Thank you so much for your help! I kept getting the heating failed error and this was the only thing that fixed it!

You made the procedure easy and simple enough, thanks a lot. It worked great, although I did it through OctoPrint terminal instead of pronterface

Hi Brian. I am only a new subscriber to your channel, and i want to thank you for the great way you manage your tutorials. They are very entertaining and insightful. I have learned so much and am still learning more about 3d printing and now also about Arduino! I am recently retired and I believe if i dont use it i will lose it. However with your help that won't happen. I can even forgive you the " dad " jokes . 😂 Keep up the great work. Greetings from Australia 🦘 Cheers. Ray

thank you so much, this fixed all of my temprature problems on my printer

Huge thanks, resolved 3 issues from my list at the same time

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Its very informative. I will follow. You are a great teacher!!!!!

Helped me out, easy and straightforward to follow. Thank you!

Great video. Was able t scroll trough step by step and solved my hot end issues. You're a life saver!

This made it super simple and painless! Thank you!

My hotend temperature got so stable what I belived the display had froze... 😂 Thanks for the video!

I fought with windows, for an hour, to try and get it to recognize my ender 3. If it doesn't show up as a USB serial port then this software (or cura or anything else won't connect). I installed the drivers and did a ton of troubleshooting, to no avail. In the end I used my android phone with otg cable and the Serial USB Terminal app to connect and send the commands described in this video. Worked like a charm and I didn't need to fight with windows, drivers, really old software, etc.

This video saved my life....well my printer's life. Thank you!

perfect timing...I was puzzling over this problem on a board I installed just today

This is great info. I will be replacing my stock hotend on my Ender 3 Max with a Sprite kit today.

A lot of thanks, your explanation was very clear, keep up the good work. Have a wonderful day!!

Using your procedure, the hotend works very fine . Thanks.

You always have the video I need to fix my printers , thanks

Wow. Thanks so much for this video. Great job explaining it and walking us through each step.

Thanx, this video was just what I was looking for!

Great video, I just installed a new hot end and I was getting the exact same behavior. I thought I messed up something with the thermistor. Followed your steps and temperature is now steady :)

Thank you for this video. All I can learn about little tricks like this is Awesome!! Thank you again!👍

The best PID tuning video, thanks

Thanks mate, saved me with using custom thermistor on custom drilled mount for it on a block.

Perfect! Thank you so much! I had to go in and adjust the PID_MAX before tuning, darn thing was waaaaay over shooting at first, like enter 220 and out came 270 and the tune would fail.

I saw the notification pop up so I AUTOmagically TUNEd in to watch the Person In the know about harD things! Great video Bryan! P.S. and here i thought PID loops were only for robots....oh YEAH! These are robots! very specific robots, but robots none-the-less. :-) P.P.S Love the t-shirt!

Thanks for the clear and fat free tutorial! Great job!

Very helpful! Thanks! A great tutorial, great walkthrough.

Thank you. I managed to break my enders thermistor wire and had to change it . Hope this stabilizes the nozzle temperature.

Saved again by the master himself. Thanks Bryan!

Great video. Thanks for the info on Pronterface for Mac.

Thank you very much. I just changed my extruder/hot end for an sprite pro kit and observed my printer wasn't able to lock in the temperature. I'll make a PID autotune as soon as I get back home tonight.

This fixed my problem! Thank you!!!!

Great video. Works just as well on an ender 3 v1. Just changed to a Revo CR quick change nozzle and needed to run the pid but hadn't ever done it before. Didn't realize marlin had an a pid autotune built in.

This is simply beautiiful, thank you so much

Thank you my friend, I was about to junk my ender 3 pro

This video was great, thank you sir!

Awesome! Your videos are life saving.

Great information, thanks, liked and subscribed.

Awesome video! It helped me out 1 million percent! THANKS!

Thank you for the great video.. it helped me 100%.. as i'm new in this 3D world..

Thank you, very useful info. I'm not sure if you mentioned PID AutoTune in your JyersUI video or not. I switched to JyersUI after watching that great video and have been very happy and even more so after discovering JyersUI has the AutoTune feature built into the UI so Pronterface is unnecessary. More good news, with JyersUI your settings are saved to the board. not the card.

Thanks Bryan I'm going to do this today!

Excelent explanation Bryan!

Thanks. That got me back and running

Great video! Thanks! Could you also do a video about how to level and arrest the X-axis of the Ender 3 V2? I still have issues in combination with BLTouch as the Z-offset is changing all the time.

Very helpful! Thanks !

Love your videos!!

Thanks dude! Saved my printer.

Dad humor intensifies, We learn more from this fine Gentleman that what the eye can see

awesome video really helped i was throwing boards and hotends at my printer trying to get it to work the prints wouldnt start i feel really silly now

Alex's Aquila branch of Jyer's ui for the Ender 3 has auto pid included so I'm guessing it's in Jyer's original Ender 3 firmware too. That plus manual mesh makes it well worth installing.

Awesome video thank you very much!

I was getting the thermal runaway message constantly. After tuning the PID, I believe it fixed it. But also I updated marlin to 2.0.

Also you can add U1 to the PID auto tune command to store the PID and skip the M301 (you still need to save with M500)

*deep breath* thank you. I think this got it fixed....LMAO I swear, most of my 3d printing saved list is you, dr vax, and chep teaching me how to put this lil guy back together...repeatedly...

nice tutorial, thanks!

Thank you so much! you made that super simple!

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this as there are over 160 comments, but depending on the compiled version of your firmware, there is a place in the menus to enter and save the values after the cycles are complete. Perhaps this will come in handy for some people. :) Of course, always record the values returned to you after the autotune in Pronterface. This will come in handy if you need to re-enter them later without needing to connect via USB. Of course, these values may change later on if you make a change to any part of the hot end hardware, so as always, use the terminal to recalibrate if needed and then record the values. If for any reason you do need to re-enter those values from the LCD screen, follow the steps below. To set the values in the printer From the Main menu: Scroll down to Configuration and click. In the next menu, scroll to Advanced Settings and click. In that menu, scroll down to Temperature and click. In that menu, scroll down all the way until you see the options that start in PID. Click on each value that you want to change. Use the knob to dial in the values you received after performing your M303 command in Pronterface and click when done. Do this for each value. When you have successfully changed the values, scroll back to the top and click the up arrow button to return to the Advanced Settings menu. Click on the button at the top to return to the Configuration menu. In this menu, scroll down to Store Settings and click. The printer will beep when the settings are successfully stored. There is a menu at the bottom of the Advanced Settings Temperature menu labelled Autotune E1 which allows you to select the tuning temperature but does not allow you to choose a number of cycles. By default, it is set to 5. The menu lists the values a little differently from top to bottom as follows: PID-P E1: PID-I E1: PID-D E1: You can enter the values manually in here if need be, then scroll back to the Configuration menu and click on Store Settings. I stumbled across this and thought it might be worth sharing... I hope it helps someone out there! :)

Thank you! this is a lifesaver tutorial :)

Thansk from Colombia, my friend!

This is amazing thank you SO very much.

Thank you so much! This helped me a lot!

Informative video. Thanks for sharing!

Very helpful !!

Hi, love the video! What hotend shoroud is that? It looks super clean!

You saved my printer again! :) Thank you

Great video. Thank you for explaining things clearly, just one question. I've now pid tuned my creality ender 3 v2 neo (with purely the stock parts it comes with) to 215 °c and have just finished my first print since the tune. The extruder temperature has remained constant all besides a single point at the very start where it dropped by one degree, that was until the very end where i once again ran into the "hot end temp too low" issue that i used the pid tine to try and fix. I have no idea how it immediately came back at the end of the print and almost caused it to snap in half as the extruder lost its position once i manually shut it off from the switch due to the noise. Do you have any idea how i can fix my issue or what else could be causing the issue? Should i just use my 1 year warranty and try to get a replacement?

amazing tutorial congrats

Thanks for saving me!

Thanks for this video!!!