ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁAÁ7

he would be proud

He would’ve been happy to see ur doing it without him

I'm guessing not

STFU djspock5150. You don't make sense

isk8aliens1 you're 20 now! what you've done to the engine ?

7 years later hows it going

In all honesty, its not as terrifying as it seems. Just gotta take your time and double check what you're doing

+MK3SupraDrift I did check the bearing clearances with plastigage before installing

jose hernandez those bolts came with the rods, I just installed them the way eagle directed

glad you found it useful!

Thanks man!

+neekkuu That's fine, but a wooden hammer handle isn't going to damage a forged piston haha

+Project Garage yeah nah, I'm just hella paranoid, thanks bro!

+Kendrick Lamar some bullcrap with Google+, made me have 2 acc ceebs dealing with it

as long as you retain the same compression ratio there's no need for additional tuning.

Nick Blenderman lol yes, common sense

that isn't necessary

+Project Garage What where u making sure not to move when the piston was in between ur legs?

+Alex Rogowski depending on the manufacturer of the pistons, the rings have to face a certain way, but not all in the same direction. this will be specified in the install notes with your pistons and rings

+Project Garage Thanks great videos are u going to do a cam shaft install and timing video anytime?

How's it going?

+Eulogio Adrio Villar I mean, for example here conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=11015 I have to choose between Standard, 0.25 or 0.50. What does this mean? How to choose the correct ones? Regards!!

+Eulogio Adrio Villar I THINK all bearings other than standard are if you got your crank journals turned. That is, if there was scoring on the surfaces or if you "spun a bearing" you would need to turn the journals (decreasing the diameter) and therefore need thicker bearings. It's like boring a cylinder and getting oversized pistons/rings.

If it is a KA motor, you may not be able to grind the crank journals. On my VG30DETT, the crank is nitride coated and therefore the crank cannot be ground, only polished. You need to check and make sure that it does not have the nitride coating.

ahmevo o If I had one, I would have loved to do it that way. However, this is a street build with a 350ish hp goal. Using a torque wrench on these bolts is perfectly fine. Now if I was trying to build a 1000hp KA-t with some crazy doo-dads on it, then yea spending the extra money to buy a stretch gauge is probably worth it. I've never used a stretch gauge on any motor I've built, and I dont know anyone personally that has. Not that its a bad idea or anything, just a bit unnecessary for most builds.

Nope. Are you snorting coke?

XD Subbed

Jeohn Rebosura It's a torque wrench, you can get them at any auto store. You set the ft/lbs you want and it stops itself once it reaches that set point.

theirs a torque setting on the wrench?

yeah, hence why it's called a "Torque adjustable wrench" might be called something different where you are but that's what we call them here in Canada. Pretty nifty tool in general but for doing engine internals its a must.

Before you do this please learn the basics.

thanks for the laughs

+Entharion The block and crank were within spec, so bearing clearances were set using the Grading system.

+Project Garage should still always check the clearances with at the very least some plasti gauge, at best with a mic and bore gauge I have built over 300 engines and to be honest, mistakes can be made during manufacturing or distributing. think of it this way, ARP produces say 100,000 sets of headstuds per day, delivers to x amount of distributors and all the boxes look the same. people are getting paid 14$ per hour to organize and ship out to stores/customers etc... shit happens and its not always their fault. checking a clearance takes 5 extra min per bearing.

+Kei Bee also you should be lubing under the head of the bolts, that area is a major factor in resistance for torquing rod bolts. failing to due so results in a looser bolt inside the rod.

I did at least verify with plastigage. I definitely get what you're saying. I didn't mean to come off as saying to just trust that everything is correct. ALWAYS verify your clearances as many times as you feel is sanely possible haha. These parts go through all kinds of heat cycling, stresses, and forces pretty much constantly. Clearances are important. As far as the bolts, yes there was lube everywhere.

Aah ok, should mention it in the video that the bolts were lubed, pretty important if guys will use your video to learn how its done. Hows the build going so far?