Happy to help.

Glad you think so!

Thanks. Working on new version with a few improvements, but will take some timw to test.

Cool coincidence. Thank you!

Glad you like it!

Cool plan, I'm also looking for ways to improve it and for that I need honest feedback from people using it. Do you know what was out of stock in the US? Perhaps I can find some replacements so people don't need to wait that long for shipping.

Cool, I was wondering if the video was too unnecessarily long. Good tip on the brim, I'll add a note for the printed parts.

I know... there will be time. Have an awesome day!

Best of luck! Let me know if you encounter any issues.

@@MihaiDesigns Only ones cause by me. I need to reprint few parts. Dial in all settings, start printing and we will see :) I like to print fast so it will be tested in many ways. I'm generally happy with fixes to many issues it provides, installation experience and uncommon looks. It was quite difficult to print in terms of details and dimensional accuracy, but that is also on me. I think in "recommended new PitStop\MK3S\bear frame on-MMU2S\stock V6 hotend" a "belt lock.stl" file is missing (noticed just after send survey reply) Quick access by magnets is a blessing and I like the cool draft it produces :) Great job, thanks for your effort and lots of work you had to put into it!

Cool! Thanks for pointing out the missing file; I just added it back. I was worried this would happen with all the folders :) Have fun printing!

Thanks for the update. Indeed, there are some shortcomings I couldn't easily fix with this design. I'm working on a new one, but will take a while to finish.

Yes, you'll be fine. Good PETG is better than warped ASA.

Right?! I was wondering if anyone would notice. Turns out it's not a good idea to work on a video for 3 weeks.

@@MihaiDesigns Nah it's cool. It just goes to show you've been working on it for a while to make as good as you possibly can. I think you did a great job with both the design itself and the video. The only thing that I (as a mere spectator) would consider changing would be to secure V6 heatsink with a piece that you can fasten over the "throat" part in the main extruder body. I really liked the belt tensioner on the carriage itself. Had not seen the wedge fastener before. Gonna use that for the Y-belt holder so thanks! :) There is a lot to like, but I just spent time modding an extruder for the MK2 to take the BMG as is, and getting connecters on everything (heater, thermistor, fan etc) so I can basically disconnect the extruder from the carriage without needing to rewire everything. I feel that is the biggest fault of the older generation printers. Some people have done custom boards that fit on the extruder motor to wire everything up locally and connect with only cat6 cables or usb3 (like the latest biqu b1 printer) on the motherboard side. It is so practical I can't fathom a printer without it now. It's like the next big improvement after steel sheets.

@@basementdwellR yup, one cable for everything is really helpful. Finally some serious usability improvement. Took me a lot of time to redo the wiring on the printer when filming, and I cant imagine anyone enjoying the textile sleeve wrapping.

Somewhere on Thingiverse, can't remember really, was a long time ago.

Hi Philippe, there's one people were going to try out in the US (see BOM). Haven't found anything in other places.

Yes, would still have to be the thin ones. I promise the 2.5mm ones won't fit. It's not a matter of making larger holes, it's about there not being any room left for the walls in multiple places. I learned my lesson and will be more aware of this aspect in the future.

@@MihaiDesigns I bought the thicker ones because that's all I found and just used my grinder to thin them down a bit.

@@LuisGarciaportillo wow that sounds like a lot of work. I hope they work.

Hi. For MMU you don't use the the metal ball. I should have taken it out when explaining the MMU levers.

Ok, I carried out an extrusion multiplier reclalibration and it printed properly at 15mm, bearings no longer binding, still have to install screws, will report back

That's a good point! This issue has been reported before. Having done some testing I realize the bearings are quite sensitive to compression, their outer metal casing being very thin and flexible. I went through all my bearing casings all over the printers and reprinted anything that seemed a bit tight. Am also careful not to tighten any screws too much to not risk deforming the bearings. Will definitely keep this in mind when using linear bearings in my design in the future.

Awesome, thank you! Looking forward to learning how the extruder works for you.

@@MihaiDesigns First testlayer of PLA looked great. Buuut after 30min+ i had some Underextrusion. I added +5°C to the Nozzle Temp and tightend the Filament Gears a bit. Next print was perfect :) And the Extruder Stepper stayed cold the whole print!

@@BruderManuel Thanks for the update. I would have tried the same thing :) Let me know if you encounter any other issues.

@@MihaiDesigns after the first spool of pla with your pitstopextruder i have still some underextrusion layer :/ (only on a few parts and only one or two layer at once) Do you have any advise? how tight are your filament gears?

@@BruderManuel I have the screw flush with the surface, maybe a bit tighter. It depends a lot on the filament, retraction settings, layer height, speed... Some filaments still need more temperature, especially the cheaper ones or if printing faster. With my Prusament I print at standard 215 the quality profile, but with others I print at around 220-230, it depends. Usually for me raising the temperature solves it even for the worst filament (unless you leave it in the sun and it becomes brittle). Just don't go so hot that it starts smoking. Also white is harder to print (in case you use that). Hope this helps. How did this filament work for you before the extruder change?

Hi Dennis, first I'd check that the lever looks alright, its tip has no holes or weird shape. Also the sensor should lie flat and have the lever tip pass in between its two black... things. Does it trigger if you manually push the lever to the left? I'd try is to make a black sensor and see if that changes anything (you'll have to take out the magnet screw to loosen the sensor screw when taking the lever out. Even though the paper triggers it, it can be that the lever does not reach very far in and light reflects inside the white extruder. Let me know if this works. I understand this is without the MMU2S. Sensor and lever position should be the same as with the stock extruder.

Indeed the pitch is not identical, but doesn't really matter. I think even no thread would work but I didn't get to test it. As long as you can insert it firmly in place you should be fine.

@@MihaiDesigns Good point! No-thread might be sufficient. I ended up with a very snug fit. Also I'm using a pass-through fitting and modified the body so the tube extends most of the way to the bondtech gears.

Hi Edmond, I guess you can try. The only risk is overhangs; if they come out OK then go for it!

Wonderful! Looking forward to receiving your feedback.

what printer ?

Gavin Beverley stock MK3

Gavin Beverley I do have an enclosure

@@eddyogi what temp do you run the enclosure at ? are all the electronics outside the enclosure ?

🤣 No bears or other animals were harmed in the making of this video! And I did get a haircut in the meantime 😁

Hey Justin, glad to hear that! A potentially bad news: there's a stock frame incompatibility I just learned about and am working on a fix. So if using stock frame there will be a revised carriage.

@@MihaiDesigns yeah I read that and am bummed! Thanks so much for the honestest! Also would you be willing to share what filiment your using and also your printer configuration file?

@@TheJkilla11 using average Devil Design filament because I like the color. It's called Bright Orange. Printing profile is pretty close to stock, nothing fancy.

@@MihaiDesigns saying pretty close to stock nothing fancy the slightest setting on a 3D printer can change the world of detail.....

Hi, I just replied on your question on thingiverse. Basically try to make the sensor reading even more sensitive. Use some tape on the door. Also perhaps check the levers and the door to make sure they move easily. Idler door shouldn't have much play at the screw. Maybe also check what else could move when the filament reaches the nozzle causing the sensor to read 0. Can't think of anything else; it's pretty hard trying to imagine what's going on without having access to the actual printer.

@@MihaiDesigns Have you even tested the mmu2s with the pitstop and are you sure the mmu2s works 100% with the pitstop? if so, how many multi color prints have you printed? Did you Encounter any problems? Or did the mmu2s work smooth with the pitstop extruder?

@@wjsbruwer8206 I already covered the answer in the videos... I did use them together about a year ago and didn't have any issues on the PitStop side. I did have a couple successful prints, but I decided the MMU2S is not something I should be using anymore, so in that sense I won't be going much further with the development in that direction. Others are just starting to use this combination so I'm waiting for more feedback. You can enlarge the filament path and push the PTFE tube further down towards the gears if the steel ball cutout is causing issues.

Cool! Good luck! And seriously, if there are any issues I'd love to learn about them. I want to improve the design and I need feedback.

@@MihaiDesigns i have one problem, i am using an mmu2s with prusa mk3s now if my printer load the filament bondtech gears the ir sensor reads 1 and when the filament just almost star extruding the filament the ir sensor changes to 0 while the filament is between the bondtech gears and then y rinter keeps unloading and loading the filament over and over please help I am using the largest lever for the sensor

@@MihaiDesignsit also only happens when my printer feeds the filament on its own but when i feed the filament manual the ir sensor only reads 1

@@wjsbruwer8206 thanks for reaching out. I can think of a few potential reasons. First, I'm guessing you're seeing these values on the display? Could be that the levers are not sensitive enough and the sensor barely triggers for a bit and then stops. One thing to try out is to nudge the IR sensor a little to the right kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fpp_gb1ymL3Go4E.html. If that's not enough then perhaps you need an even larger lever. You can try to temporarily add a layer of electric tape or duct tape at the top of the idler door where it touches the lever just to see if this fixes the issue. The risk here is that you can make it too sensitive and the IR reads 1 all the time, in which case you can try nudging the sensor to the left a bit. Play with a bit of filament inserting and removing it in between the gears and checking the sensor reading. Another thing to check is if this happens with only one particular filament and it could be that the filament has a section that is way too thin. Can happen with lower quality filaments, but the solution above should fix the problem by making the IR more sensitive. It can also be that the problem is in fact triggered by the FINDA in the MMU2S unit. I say this because I've noticed that the actual sensor reading doesn't always get updated on the screen when the MMU2S is in certain states while it is using the actual reading to make decisions. I believe the FINDA has an LED light, so check that the light doesn't change at all while it's trying to load the filament in the extruder. Does all this make sense? Let me know how it goes. Also you can ask on www.reddit.com/r/Mihai/ directly if you want as I'm keeping an eye on that.

@@MihaiDesigns thanks for the reply i will try every thing you said i will let you know if it worked

Hi Luis, if you could have a look at the feedback form link in the video description, that would be ideal. Thanks!

@@MihaiDesigns Yeah I saw that the first time I viewed the video then completely forgot about it. Thanks.

Hi Nikos, do you mean the PitStop extruder with 40x40 fan instead of the large one? I don't have something like that. I have SKR 1.4 and I use the 5V fan. Connect the black normally and red to a free +5V pin.

MihaiDesigns yes but this will start fan from the beginning not after 50c. I need pwm pin ;)

Yup. The ground pin on SKR is PWM. Chris Riley and Chris Warcocki both have videos on this. They convert Prusa printers to use SKR with stock 5V fan.

MihaiDesigns Ah ok! Now I read better the comment you say that you split the cable. So anyway I should buy a 60mm fan. I was trying to avoid that by using 40mm

I couldn't find them either. You can get the 6x10mm ones, they're strong enough (not the weaker N35 grade). Or try the imperial 1/4 x 1/2 but you'll have to drill wider holes; I haven't tried.

I found here www.supermagnete.de/eng/rod-magnets-neodymium

I used pairs of 6x6mm, works great.

@@matthewcarter5248 excellent!

@@ThePasi67 Cool!

Very important.

It's a excellent guide! What tools shall I use?

How many did you find?

@@MihaiDesigns stopped counting after the first one lol

@@MihaiDesigns excellent guide by the way

Thanks! Might be a bit too long, covering many scenarios and mods. I'm learning as I go :)

@@MihaiDesigns No, it was perfect. I felt like I could watch it, follow along, pausing as needed. Unlike so many other videos that I'd have to rewind and watch quick segments multiple times to understand what was being shown/done. This video makes me want to do this upgrade even more than before.

Trying out all sorts of microphones and setups... some not working too well. Not sick 😁

I used the ones from Igus, but I wasn't getting good accuracy and low friction, an experience others shared as well, so I moved away from them.

@@MihaiDesigns did you also use the rods supplied by igus with igus bearings ?

... and follow along

That's exactly how I watched this video! 2x was the perfect speed for me :P

That is my standard setting for all youtube videos:) I mean one can always pause/rewind or slowdown if need be. I turn down the speed for podcasts type stuff when I am doing something else and not actively watching.