I admire your patience with the community. I can only imagine how many "important" requests you get daily. 👏👏👏

I just reprinted my Pit Stop in "Strong and Precise High Resolution 3D Printing Resin by Siraya Tech (Clear V2) " on my son in laws SLA printer and they came out so clear I can watch the filament move though it and no problems with light hitting the filament sensor. I have been using this for the part cooling fan as it holds up to the heat so much better.

Are you having fun yet? I hope so!

Excellent videos. Please keep it up, I am having no issues with my stock prusa, but I am going to start getting everything together for Pitstop so that when I have to fix it I will just swap then. The quality of your videos and depth are great. Thank you.

Very nice video with a lot of helpful tips - well done!

I tried various bearing & sleeve combinations on my MK3S with the following outcome: Noisewise, the bed bearings have the most influence by far, the X-Axis is barely noticeable in daily use. As for sleeves, I compared IGUS vs. brass ones with graphite spots in them. The latter are mechanically more robust to clamping tension and have a little less stick/slip friction on the steel rods from my POV. Both variants need very precise rod alignment in order to not bind (which I simply couldn’t achieve properly on the X axis due to lack of adjustability). Ball bearings are frictionwise far superior to those sleeves and are easily applicable. The only real downside is the noise. So I used brass sleeves on the Y axis (which took a little tinkering for smooth operation) and ball bearings on all other axis. The printer is extremely quiet now and has no noticeable play in it, so print quality isn’t affected. The Y axis rods have to be maintained once in a while with some PTFE spray. All in all, I can recommend this setup, if you‘re not affraid to setup your bed a little

Great tips, thank you Mihai :)

excellent tutorial 👏

I am sticking with my SKF bearings with 8x ball bearing races in them. They are probably the most expensive option, but last I checked can be had for approx USD $20/ea. I've seen too many people overuse the Igus bearings to the point where their dimensional accuracy suffers and at some point the printer refuses to print. Good to hear you are stating that Igus is not for everyone.

When Tom Sanladerer said Igus bushings need external tensioning, this spec doesn't refer to the same model of bushings that you're using, but the beige narrow ones, these grey ones are supposed to be drop-in replacements for the corresponding bearings. He made an error by implication. However he must have made an observation, and you also have definitely experienced that, untensioned, on standard printer smooth rods, these grey ones still outright wobble by a substantial amount. The real trick is that IGUS sells their own rods which are slightly larger and sized to fit these bushings! I find the whole idea of tensioning them a bit precarious. I mean the plastic doesn't really change in volume when you apply tension, it just turns into more of an oval... this idea doesn't sit quite right with me. I have tried IGUS and gave up on them and just use my own PETG bushings now. But i also run a feisty torque setting and don't have sensorless homing or stall detection on my printer, so i can afford to have a somewhat sticky movement system, which is what you get with PETG bushings!

Hi. I really love your videos. In depth but explained in a clear way. I’m thinking about upgrading to the pitstop extruder. After seeing this I’m also wondering if I should, at some point go ahead with the igus mod. My printer isn’t overly loud but I can hear it working at night. I have seen some mod parts in some videos that I’m curious about but can’t find any good information about. Most visible is the z axis bearing holders. Yours have some clamping screw. Is this part of some igus mod that I cannot find any information about? Also I haven’t found any good video showing the noise improvements with doing a igus mod. Would love if someone could say it’s X dB on the X ,Y and Z axis, or something like that :) What is your experience? Does it run much more quiet? Thank you for your great content. / Kenny

Hi I have been doing my cube test and on a few parts there will be gaps any advice and will this be due to x axies not being level

For ASA to what temperature do you set the enclosure?

Do you plan on making a version of the pitstop with hex nuts instead of square nuts?

Hi How can i get this 3d printer