Glad the video was helpful

Glad to help

Didn’t know that. Guess I should have figured it out. Thanks for the insight

Glad you enjoyed it

Any time!

Yes I break the V+ in the prop or between different props. It depends on various factors like number of lights brightness level and type of pixels.

Yes I am

For mounting it I plan on using the large hose clamps that came with it, feeding it through the back brackets and the mounting it to a pole by my Megatree. I do like this box a lot but it would be nice if you could open and close it without the key

I'm searching for reviews on this box - not much that I can find. Since you are one of the few people that I can find, one question - any regrets with the purchase? It's a bit on the high side - especially with shipping, so I'm trying to do my due diligence before making a purchase. Any comment would be appreciated.

Comment directed to wibblywotsits

@@paul_dz Hey Paul. So, here's my thoughts : I built and installed mine after the Halloween holiday, and left it out over the winter period. I get snow, and cold temperatures, and also rain. It's big. But solid. I put a Genius GPX 16 and two power supplies inside mine. That combination led to a problem with the pigtails being super close to the bottom panel holes. I got 'em in there, but it was an awkward placement, certainly. The mounting board I got from Mynor has the phoenix connectors close to the lip. Not a deal breaker, but even so. The unit itself is heavy, and includes some mounting grips. I guess the idea is to mount it to a vertical pole, or 4x4 or something, but I didn't have a convenient place. That - coupled with the fact that the pigtails all come out the *bottom* = meant I lad to lay it on its back. I'm not particularly happy with that orientation. The lid I left closed, although not *locked* because - the OTHER issue is that the trianglular key-thing doesn't fit the lock. It's way too big and falls out, and I didn't want to lock it and then have the key disappear. Soo.. It was out all winter, coped with the Christmas show fine, but I had almost no snow. Turned the show off Jan 10th, left it out there a few weeks while I decompressed, came to break down my show mid-feb and the enclosure has water in it. It *might* have gotten in through the lid ( the door faces up, not forwards). Or through some vents, although that seems unlikely. It was raised 1' off the ground, so it wasn't snow piling up against it. It also wasn't *enough* water to fry anything. Just a slosh in the bottom. But all the electronics were off, so nothing shorted or died. Wasn't so happy with that, tbh. and right now it's on my workbench waiting for me to do a thorough testing. I suspect if you mounted it vertically, with the lip overhanging, like it's *designed* to, then it'd be fine. But on it's back it's not. And the bottom orientation for the pigtails makes it super awkward to do anything else.

@@wibblywotsits Thank you for the taking the time to write a very thorough review - much appreciated. I'm thinking the orientation had to do with the water getting in - maybe some wind swept rain. I would be mounting on some type of post so I think it would not be an issue. As for the room with the pigtails - it's a shame that the mounting board would place the components so close to the edge - there must be a lot of free space at the top of the cabinet. Maybe I should consider making by own mounting board if I was to go with the enclosure - have to give it some thought. Thanks for pointing it out.

I still use my falcon f16v3. Just decided to try out the genius controllers. I like there new differential receivers. As for GP power supplies, just haven’t gotten around to trying them out.

I have not created a wiring diagram. Generally you connect the 120v plug to the AC side of the power supplies. You then connect the DC side of the power supply to the controller. One power supply connects to one side of the controller and the other power supply connects to the opposite side of the controller. In other words each power supply powers 8 ports on your controller. Hope this helps.

Yes- V- to V- and V+ to V+

I use xLights. There are several others you can use. xLights is very powerful and there is a lot of community support. It is also open source.

You know you might be right.

Lots of online resources, check out xLights.org. There is also some good KZfaq channels out there on getting started. For smart LED’s Canispater Christmas had some great content.

I did only use one power cord. Most people use 2. You need to check your load and the gauge of your plug makes a difference as well. For AC power I used black for load, white for neutral, and green for ground. If you are unsure use two power cords. For DC power I used red for V+ and black for V-. So there are two types of black wires. Hope this helps.

@@bergmannlights5149 Thanks for the info. Do you know what gauge your power cords are? I believe the ones that I got were 18 AWG. They 16 AWG, Do you think those would be better to use for multiple power supplies. I used to use one cord for each PS but now I've been only using 1 in my boxes with 2 PSs. Having fewer plugs is a definite plus.

@@chestercampbell5681 bigger is better. Go for 16 awg. One 16 awg for 2 power supplies is good in my experience

@@bergmannlights5149 I would love to see a better shot on how you did the wiring for 1 power cord for all 4 power supplies. Is there a diagram or something you can post? Is the cord going into one powersupply and daisychaining them? I wish you would have gone over that in the video.

The thicker the wire the better do go for 16 awg or better for 4 power supplies. I just ran jumpers from the power supplies using 12 awg wire.

No- don’t think I have seen any pixel controllers that do that. The Genius controllers operate on 12 VDC, so they are powered up by the power supplies inside the box.

Might want to branch out a little. The Dig-Uno, Quad and Octa boards all have a delay out put that can be used to turn on the power supplies. Just need to provide 5v to the ESP32 chip.

@@eekedout did not know that, thanks for the info

It depends. If you do power injection you can put more on an output then if you don’t. There are 150 pixels per 8 ft section. If you are using 12v pixels and run them at 50% brightness you can easily do two sections without doing power injection per output. Hope this helps.

Do a mega tree first. Its a great learning curve display!

I have the major components in the description. Do you need more details?

For power injection. I probably have more then I need but better safe than sorry.

Thanks for your insights. There is about 3/8 of an inch spacing between the stacked power supplies so the fan is not covered up. Also have a large fan, 9 inches I think,on top to pull cool air through the box.

@@bergmannlights5149 Was looking into using this box - and your video is very helpful to get a hands on feel for it. Regarding this comment which seems like a valid concern - is there room to add spacers to increase the breathing space between power supplies - say maybe one inch?

Yes this box is very large. You could have a stack of 3 power supplies so if you have two of them you will have plenty of space.