I bought a roll of eSun PLA+ despite the reviews being pretty divided but, I saw that most of the people who had problems just put very basic reviews with no details such as "This filament sucks" "Terrible filament", etc. No mention of their settings, printer , etc. All the ones who had success usually included those details. Took me a big to get the settings dialed in for retraction to remove all stringing but once everything is set it prints really well.

My experience with esun PLA+ has been that it clogs nozzles frequently, and I've run it everywhere from 185c to 210c. Stopped using it for this reason, but it did produce good quality prints otherwise.

I run Esun PLA+ without issues in my ender v2 and aquila vox machines. it can be tempermental some times but I find that running it a bit hotter works well...220c-235c 2.5mm retract dis and 25mms retract speed. Also Durcmic PLA+ is one that that works really well consistantly. I have had maybe 3 spools of Esun out of 100 that really were just terrible and I contacted them on amazon and told them and they sent replacements without a return or refund processed...they just sent new roll for the one that failed, which was cool of them.

I've heard indeed that colorfabb reacts great to it, thanks for confirming

Someone mentioned PLA that has been aceton smoothed will crack overtime. Did you experience this?

@@Mech.E depends for how long. If younoverdo it.yes, but i have prints that are.over 7 yeara ols and still not split or cracked. If you print hollow Do Not allow and acetone inside or else it WILL split.

@@Cloakfiend appreciate the answer. Good info!

Polymaker pla plus works way better

haha well that video i posted to his subreddit, its just a quick timelapse though, the same one he showed but they cut it up in editing for their videos sake

i used to print with abs but my room here was just getting cramped with the enclosure, we move into a big shop space in may, perhaps im going back to abs then aswell as the method in the video here also works very great on abs

i have not, i can get acces to one though, intresting idea, thanks!

it goes to 3200 watts, but that high is not needed to get the vapor to go, best is to test it with your small induction plate. wear your safety gear, and test with small amounts

@@WaynesWorkshop Cheers, chap. Now to try and find a small, tall induction pot!

True, however alot of hobbyists will go for the cheaper stuff though, i want to do a round 2 but under a big microscope, and also add abs to lot and compare the surfaces

maybe one day, we want to get back to making videos but Costronica is keeping us busy

Too many cartoons as a kid, I pick up languages and accents really easy 😁

well i dont think anymore, i know ;) all jokes aside, a vapor bath on its own generates no heat, the combination of heat (to make the pla soft) and than the vapor hitting is what does the trick, ofcourse as shown in the video not every brand of PLA reacts the same. some purists go "wEll YoU dOnT uSe PuRe PLA!" but who does nowadays, pretty much everybody i know and see in every 3dprinting group goes for what is available for a good price vs ok quality.

I think the latter... Espcially when not owning the safety gear either way

that would be the " devil design" filament

when setting it from high to low like i did, there is no need for a lid, you can ofcoarse, but remove the lid slowly, otherwise you suck the vapor out of the pot as you lift the lid. drag is a thing so consider that.

@@WaynesWorkshop , ok I just thought the lid help the vapor creep up to the height you need it to be to encompass the entire print

"that" brand? i use 6 different ones... like i say in the video i cant be sure of any/all brands of PLA, testing 6 brands was enough for me to make a best guess :)

think more the combo of both, heat softens the PLA and because its more malleable, it can react to the vapor, as normal vapor from acetone doesnt do anything to pla

no

This. I've literally soaked my hatchbox PLA(in the past) in Acetone(pure) and It did nothing to it.

and that is a good thing

while its true it wont do much in pure aceton, its the combo of heat and acetone vapor that does the trick, these same models dunked in pure (cold) acetone wont give any reaction either

Regular

ive tried 6 different brands, i guess some can be considered "standard"

It plugs into the an outlet just like an electric portable cooktop with the coil but with induction instead. Have to use steel pots, aluminum will not work.

@@AAMovieStudios Oh. So it IS an electric heater...

@@No1sonuk Technically, the "iduction heater" is not a heater by itself as it does not generate heat but only a rapidly changing magnetic field. The combination of the induction generator and a ferromagnetic object on top (like a pot) could be considered as a heater :-D

@@BossmodePictures thanks for answering that for me :D wanted to get to this comment all week but didnt have the time and forgot :P

the answer is down here perfectly, i will add that what i ment with "normal electric heater" are those small camping hot tops, basicly those heat/glow up with a big ass coil, so thats a big glowing hot object, and thats a no no for this.

ive used 6 different brands of pla, all at different price points, regardless of price, it still prints with the same ease, abs i used to print with, the enclosure simply was to cumbersome in my current shop

xd