I’m one of those people who just see the layer lines…

Thanks!

That’s really interesting and I have some milliput so will experiment with that in spot places.

Thank you! Glad you found it useful

Thanks Stephen.

I find spray putty really useful for larger areas.

Glad it helped!

Thanks. I will have to look at the Polylite.

I’ve got mirror finishes for metallics using spray putty but it took a fair few coats and sanding. Good luck!

Thank you so much!

Thank you!

Apparently it’s hard to get in North America which may be why it’s less common.

Thanks Stephen. It definitely has challenges but I wouldn’t be without my 3D printers now!

Yeah, I was going to ask about versions available in the US. I've never heard of it before and it sounds great 👍

I hear it’s hard to find in North America so perhaps filler primer is the closest you get. If you can find it, my favourite spray putty is Motip.

Thank you!

Glad I could help - if you are in North America then spray putty can be hard to find so filler primer is the nearest alternative.

@@KathyMillatt I'm a Hungarain! :D Fortunatelly i can buy here the spray putty!

Thanks!

Thanks. Two great suggestions!

I hope it goes well for you.

I suspect that different methods suit different models but spray putty is by far the easiest I’ve found.

I definitely prefer to sand spray putty. It’s almost enjoyable. Thinner resin may work better but take more layers perhaps?

Interesting! I’m always worried about heating the PLA too much with a rotary tool so it starts to melt but toothpaste!

@@KathyMillatt Toothpaste (not gel ) is a polishing abrasive , I used it as a kid to clean up glue smears on aircraft canopies. (tube cement is evil !) Also used it to finish restoring my (real) car headlights ! A good tip when rescribing to a straight line on a curved surface is...... Dymo plastic embossing label tape. It has a good solid edge to run along.

This is Dspiae scribing tape. It’s actually cheaper than Dymo tape and comes with lines to help line it up!

Ben from 2nd Dynasty is such a great creator. My next video features the Traveller Rampart from their latest Kickstarter.

Thanks. That sounds interesting.

Is that to melt the side to hide the layer lines? I’ve found heat warps my prints so I’m unsure how that would work.

@@KathyMillatt Here is a video where someone used a torch instead of a hot air station: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y-CHi6mCsNqUp2g.html the idea behind it is basicly the same.

@@arcadebit1551 Cool, I'll check it out - I have used a blow torch on stringing and tbh, it warps so much I can't imagine it working on a print for layer lines so I am intrigued.

Thanks Lee. I solve a lot of my stringing issues by drying my filament. I have those heated drier boxes and it makes a huge difference. The ghosting can be mostly fixed and there are loads of articles out there on what to tweak.

I must get some! I looked a couple of times but haven’t committed yet. Now I’ll have to!

I do have a sand blaster but it’s messy so I’ve never actually used it in anger.

Thank you. I did use thinned putty with acetone on my next job and it dues sand nicely but I find sprays easier for layer lines on their own.

@@KathyMillatt spraying it is fantastic! Don’t be afraid if anyone gives you grief on spraying it. Acetone is in every rattle can & primer used! Just some ppe & your good to go! What is your go to filler primer currently?

Apparently it isn’t a thing in North America so filler primer is the nearest available alternative.

@@KathyMillatt I've come to realize we are stuck under a monopoly of Rustoleum and 3m's Bondo!

I’ve found FDM to be more robust and dimensionally accurate plus cheaper on the large terrain items but like you… I hate the layer lines!

Good question. I’ve done one coats in the past and it often depends on the model. I’ve found one coat can work but if your doing thin coats, two is better.

I’ve seen that used a lot recently but it’s always brands you don’t get in the UK.

I wonder when that will be as the layer lines are inherent in the technology. Perhaps an external treatment that just sorts it?

Interesting. The last few times I put talc in something I got a lot of lumps so it put me off adding it to stuff. I still prefer the ease of a spray as it’s just quicker for bulk items like my current hangar build.

@@KathyMillatt Won’t this time, if you get the resin a little thicker again to the point of syrup it’s much more difficult to pool. The thing about filler primer and this applies to all regardless of which one you use (some say they don’t shrink but they all do) is they shrink over time so what looks good now won’t look good overtime, this is the trade off for ease of sanding. Automotive 2k primer is much thicker of a build and the thickness on that would be enough to compensate but the stuff in a can takes many coats and you start loosing edge detail the more you have to put on in order to compensate for the shrinkage overtime. Resin won’t shrink so whatever you put down it’s staying in place so using a combo of the two is a sweet mix, 2-3 coats of very thin resin followed by sanding in between coats with 180 to 220 then filler primer to cover the scratch’s left by that and sand as high as you need depending on the type of finish you need. This combo works a treat and allows me to finish the coating and primer stage in 45 mins or less for a full size helmet.

@@techguy38 I can see you are sold on the resin method just as I am on the spray putty method although I like the idea of a combo. Spray putty doesn't shrink - I did my Halo diorama with it 18 months ago and it is still a mirror shine finish.

Thank you!

I totally agree on the resin. I’ve bought a scraper but haven’t used it in earnest yet.

It’s not going backwards but it is a different beast. They each have their uses and strengths.

Resin printers are brilliant but not for everything. The printers themselves get cheaper but resin is still more expensive than filament and harder to print large flat structures with plus it usually lacks the spring and resilience of PLA.

@@KathyMillatt noted! So, hang on to FDM printer if I get a resin printer!

Definitely!

I tried acetone smoothing on ABS and it didn’t work on my filament. There are chemicals that do a similar job on PLA but I wasn’t sold on the process I’m afraid.

Interesting ideas. I think that’s why I like spray putty, it’s relatively quick to apply.

It’s apparently hard to find spray putty in North America. There a links on my website (link in description) but my favourite brand is Motip.

@@KathyMillatt Great. Thanks

Masking is definitely a good idea. I did want to see how much these filled in the details.

@@KathyMillatt you could try masking with toothpaste or a gel. Something that adheres but can be easily removed. That would let you keep details where you want and easily removed when the time arrives to prime

@@Qis4Question Nice idea - blu tack would also be good.

Interesting and masking is the way. I’m not sold on water washable resin though. Resin is hazardous whether it’s cleaned with IPA or water and the thought of putting a hazardous waste straight down the sink seems wrong. I hear mixed results from people who use water washable but the consensus seems to be it’s not as good as the normal stuff so I’m glad you have great results from yours.

Oh and I realise you understood the drain point but so many I see using water washable don’t. What to do with all the used IPA/water is a conundrum.

@@KathyMillatt after about 100 or mor washes and has settled to the bottom remove most of the top clean water with a turkey baster or syphon, it can then be cured in the sun or under a uv light and then deposited in the trash just like any other cured resins

@@cowboy124aa3 And the water is still full of dissolved resin so needs to be disposed of as hazardous waste or left to evaporate - I struggle as when I put stuff out to evaporate - it just fills up with rain!

@@KathyMillatt Resin doesnt dissolve in the water its suspended in it, it will settle to the bottom of the container after a few days. the water taken off the top can be put into a new clean container and be reused into a new cleaning tub.

Apparently it’s hard to get in the US but I get my favourite Motip on Amazon in the UK.

@@KathyMillatt I'll be sesrching around for it then :) thank you!

That’s a great idea. If I was doing this on a final part rather than a test, I think I would definitely do that.

I’ve ended up having to learn FDM to print those big items and it may be more prone to layer lines but it handles the big ships so much better.

That sounds like the cabinet scrapers which have a burr. The round edge was to stop me putting the tip in but does mean very little surface area. A straight razor would do large flat areas much better. Thanks!

@@KathyMillatt Yes, it's exactly like a cabinet scraper, but since they are smaller, you have much more control over it.

I’ve never tried it so thanks for sharing your experiences.

Good FDM designers already factor in a lot of ways to improve the printing process such as orientation and texture to help mask layer lines. Having printed large items in resin and FDM, FDM would be my go to now but there are upsides and downsides to both.

I’ve had it on my helmet for years with no problem.

@@KathyMillatt that's what I wanted to hear, got a Spacemarine helmet in the works!! 🤣

Awesome! It’s worked a treat on my Titanfall helmet.

Old is good. Just means more experience!

I think it would help and I’m going to do that on a future project.

I get it on Amazon and like the Motip brand best. I put links on my website if you want an actual product link.

If you want something unique, sometimes it’s the only way.

I use the sandpaper after filling and priming so don’t worry, you’ll still get to use it.

Do you live in North America? It’s not the same but filler primer does a similar job. You may need more coats of it though.

@@KathyMillatt yes North America

Yes, it takes paint beautifully.

It’s always possible to tweak more but I do think that there are layer lines whatever you do because the nozzle extrudes a round profile and you may want a perfectly flat wall. I certainly need to improve my actual printing though.

@@KathyMillatt He is using a high quality FDM print head, which helps a lot with the layer lines, but he noticed that his prints became much better on the z axis when he was running it in Bowden mode. This is what lead him down examining the direct drive extruder itself. He found that you can test if your FDM printer is having this issue by changing the extrusion speed. If the Z axis layer lines have different repeating patterns with different extrusion rates while in Vase mode, part of the issue is from uneven filament flow.

@@nilok7 Interesting - I can imagine the cheap filament I use is partly to blame as it is not as dimensionally accurate but I didn't notice twice the improvement with filaments twice the price. The ringing from direct drives is definitely more pronounced than with a Bowden arrangement but I like the design better overall.

Sounds like a great system. Thanks for sharing.

It’s not. It’s specifically made to sand and gas not paint in it. You do need to prime afterwards.

It is so hard to keep that fine detail when sanding, isn’t it.

@@KathyMillatt I really hope I succeed. The print came out perfectly, the parting line (I had to print it in two parts) is very smooth and not very visible. Also, the sizing ratio on my mannequin is perfect, and the helmet fits on perfectly. So I really do not want to blow it. But of course I also want him with his helmet off. So...I have to do this somehow. I will take my time and try out your method (maybe before I do this head, I will practice on a faulty print).

Practice really does make perfect. I’ve been sanding my helmet for ages and every time I prime I spot another area to improve!

I use sanding sponges a lot. There are some like DSPIAE that are excellent. Although, I wouldn’t print small figures in FDM, I’d use resin.

Resin expeeeeensive ;3; Thank u though XD

Sounds like a dream! I should swap out my 0.4 nozzle and try but I’d probably just go resin instead for the finer detail.

It’s the shuttle by 2nd Dynasty. It was the free gift in a few campaigns but I think you can buy it too.

@@KathyMillatt great! Thanks for replyin!

I like spray putty because it’s a spray so easy to apply. Bondo is sadly very expensive here as it’s an import.

Apparently it’s not common in the US. It’s not the same as filler primer but that can stand in but with more layers perhaps.

@@KathyMillatt Filler primer doesn't work that well. Can you post the name of the product you use?

@@gg48gg I use Motip spray putty.

Interesting. My flatness problems are often the sides which may be more of a challenge.

Wish she would put a link to the spray putty as I never heard of it.

@@gvet47 i know there are primer with a filler in it and i use that but the stuff she is using looks thicker and i been looking for it on line but not finding anything

Would also like to know what that spray putty is or where to get, please.

@@victoriaq5157 me too

@@victoriaq5157 i can't get it in the usa but there is a link under her video about 3d printing and you can find the putty in that list

If you live in the UK or Europe then it’s an automotive product so I get mine on Amazon. Apparently it’s not available in North America so filler primer is the nearest alternative.

@@KathyMillatt yeah im from Germany🙈 thank you!

I have a link on my website (link in description) but I believe the problem is that it’s not a common product in North America. You do have filler primer which is similar but a bit thinner so needs more layers.

@@KathyMillatt yeah I found high filler primers which may be similar, Bondo makes a spray version of a high filler, going to give them a try.

@@KathyMillatt another question I have is those filing sticks you are using, it just the same ones used on your nails or is there a specific brand/type?

@@DanielChaves1984 Emery boards are good but I also use the dspiae sanding sponges as they are more flexible for the smaller pieces.

@@DanielChaves1984 Please let me know how it goes.

I have a resin printer that does great quality but it lacks the mechanical qualities of PLA. Price aside, there are some items that DDM printing just does better.

🤣🤣🤣

Thanks Ed.

If I can. It cuts down on dust which is a pain for getting everywhere including in lungs.

I tried acetone smoothing on ABS once very unsuccessfully and it put me off the vapour methods. I did look but don’t see many people using it so I wonder why that is. Carcinogenic warnings perhaps?

Ethyl acetate is not a carcinogen, itsmsimilar to acetone in regards to safety. And sadly comes with the same vapor smoothing "issues". Even if you are unwilling tondabble in the dark arts of vapor smoothing, the possibility of solvent welding parts still deserves a mention. P.s.: ....hopefully i am not debating with the church of " every chemical is unnatural, thus carcinogenic"

@@martonlerant5672 I just filled a whole massive hangar full of models with Tamiya putty thinned with acetone (wearing an organic solvents mask!).

Sanding detailed prints is such a nightmare! Hopefully the spray putty will help you.

I’ve always gone resin rather than a smaller nozzle. I guess it’s the way I think but maybe I should experiment with nozzle size.

@@KathyMillatt A smaller nozzle makes quite a big difference from what I have seen. I use a 0.25 mm nozzle to print small objects like gears and similar and it definitely is a lot better than using a 0.4 mm nozzle, if you combine it with a tiny layer size it works well too, like I use a 0.075 mm layer height. Resin printers apparently have a 10-100 um layer height which you can get within with a FDM printer, like the height I print fine details at is 75 um and that si with a stock lead screw on an ender 3, it should be possible to go smaller and definitely if you use a finer pitch lead screw.

@@conorstewart2214 Definitely one for the future

Thanks! The helmet is a personal project so it will probably just be photos on social media I’m afraid. I may make another one eventually!

I don’t like using CA as it’s harder than the plastics I am sanding so they get worn away first making it so hard to get a level finish. I know adding baking powder helps but I prefer the putties as they’re softer and sand more nicely.

@@KathyMillatt that is true! to use it you need to flood it. I used high filler primer the other day and the lines were gone after the first round of spraying and sanding. it was a large flat surface though.

Interesting! Thanks.

I have tried it and much prefer spray putty.

I’d not thought of that. How thick is it? Does it fill the lines easily and sand easily?

@@KathyMillatt It depends a little on what kind of varnish you use. I have tried 2 different kinds with variing results. 1st I used a varnish with black pigments water basis solvent. This didn´t work at all because this varnish was very very runny and thin. 2nd I used clear coat varnish (glossy) on oil basis. (the cheap kind from my local hardware store for food etc.) This time it worked really well. The coat was much thicker and did build up. It worked for me on a 0.2mm layer height. It´s kind of like the UV resin but much easier to handle since you don´t need a mask, it´s not as volatile, it does not need UV light to cure, it will not wrinkle during curing etc. BUT it takes longer to fully cure. I did not sand it afterwards since this was my whole point for doing that, so i don´t know how hard it is. But it is supposed to be for a final surface finish for furniture, I would assume it will be quick hard and easy to hand. Just try it out.

@@sierraecho884 thanks. I still wear a mask for any solvent I’m using a lot of but I’m guessing you hand painted? Im a fan of the spray method because it is so quick and then using a hand painted on detailed areas.

@@KathyMillatt I just hand painted with a window open. It´s just normal varnish, nothing dangerous unlike UV resin. You can of course spray paint it instead. And wear corresponding safety gear. I would suggest you just try it out your way and see what you are comfortable with and if it has the results you are looking for. It might not be for you after all. If you try it out, please give some feedback here, I would like to know if it works for you etc. =)

@@sierraecho884 Will do!

I think it depends what you’re printing. I print a lot of figures which I could never sculpt in a million years. I’m also awful at cutting straight lines on styrene so 3ad prints are more consistently accurate than I am.

I like spray putty because it’s a spray but it does put out a lot of bad fumes.

What kind of rude comment is this?? That’s awesome she’s into this stuff and she is a woman and a very beautiful one at that