Thanks for watching sir.

Can I save this or get the plans for it

I agree, but I think adjusting the depth would be easier with a router sled.

@@JohnPatersonAu That was my thought too. The only ways to adjust the depth with this is minor adjustments with the knob and larger adjustments with shims. Router seems easier, though slower.

@@blakeshedd5354Shims to raise the work-piece should be easy enough with standard aluminium sheet. Cut small plates or discs for the corners in 1mm, 2mm, 3mm, etc.

Thanks for watching sir.

Sorry about that. I'll be careful. Thanks for watching sir.

🤣 🤣 🤣

I had some concerns as well, but this idea is pure genius IMHO😎.

@@shawnmann9491 undoubtedly! I'm in the process now of doing this with linear rods and bearings. The edge guide holes and brackets are perfectly positioned for it. I'm actually putting it on a base so that it lines up on my bench and is held in place with dogs I'm putting on the bottom. Now it'll just be a matter of depth settings and boom... let the shavings begin!!

@@carterscustomrods . Very good info Sir! So you are mounting it upside down🧐? I was going to investigate his depicted planer, and will look into your model as well. I’d love to see a picture of your finished setup! Happy New Year to You!

Pleased to hear that. Thanks for watching sir.

That's what she said.

lmao! That's slick.

Thanks for watching sir.

Portable planers cannot flatten a timber slab, so this method is the best way to go. You also need shims for each corner of the slab. to raise it in 1mm steps. 4 x 1mm, 4 x 2mm 4 x 3mm, etc. Make a cut with 1mm shims. Reset the job with 2mm shims, make another cut and so on.

Thanks for watching sir.

Yep, might have to give this a try. Four days with a router Vs 5 minutes with a planer 🤣

The router version is gonna still be much better for end grain or going against the grain of a peice

@@Festoos that's what I was thinking. I have a table top to even out, but I have a bread board glued on already. It won't go well with a planer huh?

@@renem8130 yeah because of the variation in grain direction you should definitely go with the router, remember to have sacrificial prices of wood on the entrance and exit end of your path with the router tho to make sure your table top has 0 tear out :)

Thanks for watching sir.

Sorry to hear that. I'll be careful sir.

Sorry to hear about your finger. How deep was the cut? Did you lose the part of finger completely?

Man, same sweaty fingers here too. Cut 3 of my fingers myself a few months back & watching it get so close, skipped a lot of the video.

Yeah, watching that table saw work @ double time was er... triggering. The splitter looked like the saw blade in some of the shots as well.

Totally agree, my dude is terrifying to watch on the table saw. Seriously brother, the reach overs, narrow pushes on finger tips with angled cuts, insanely dangerous.

Thanks for watching sir.

I always wonder why so many people make router sleds, when planer sleds make so much sense....🤷🏻‍♂️

I'm happy to have made this idea. Thanks friend.

@@j-woodworking9573 uuuu

Thanks for watching sir.

‘I flattened a bench top with a router but as you say this seems way easier. I think that it is important to have sharp blades in the plane. Also I fancy that his method of mounting the plane on the rails was more complicated than necessary.

@@billgiles3261 ..ㅈ

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Yes it is silicon. Thanks for watching sir.

@@j-woodworking9573 Does the silicon make such a tight bond with wood? Doesn't it fall off after a while ? Sorry for the dumb question here.

I think acrylic mastic/adhesive does a better job than silicon sealant. It's used in car body shops under names like Tiger Seal.

Happy to hear that. Thanks for watching sir.

Sorry about that. I'll be careful. Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

You went too far. Thanks for watching sir.

My pleasure. Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for your kind advice sir. I'll be careful.

Better advice -> build yourself a run-off table, then no need to reach over and catch work pieces before they fall onto the floor

Watch matthias wandel test on that. It just doesn’t happen on a table saw. Happens on a lathe though

I appreciate your knowledge! Not sure I'd necessarily want a wider one for many projects....surprising that they'd design an ejection port that wasn't round!! Very odd...I have a Bosch....using it for years, but I wish had a battery powered Makita....I think it also has better placed threaded sockets on the sides, for attaching "homemade" gizmos like rails...

@@samuelluria4744 ADDING threaded inserts to the sides (or top or front/rear) of the tool body is easier than you may think... I have used those threaded inserts meant for wood, with coarse threads outside and machinescrew threads inside, both in 1/4 20 and 5/16 18 (larger preferable!), because those are readily available here in Mexico. But I plan to investigate in detail the "E-Z Press™ Special for plastic" inserts. On my large MAKITA 1912B 4 3/8" wide planer, I am planning (pun intended!) to cut some threads into the thick aluminum sole plate, because those would be even firmer than attaching screws into the insert into the plastic body of the planer, and the thick base plate allows plenty of room. By designing a good adjustable height mechanism, this can result in a quite precise adjustment, and that could mean an inexpensive tool many times more affordable than a Bench Planer or Edge Jointer. The several excellent videos from a couple of extraordinary Japanese (or Oriental) carpenters, show clearly that, working with patience and dedication, precise enough bench tools can be made with wood or combined materials from inexpensive electric hand tools.

@@alfredomarquez9777 - Wish you the best on your projects!!! This is something I will have to do at some point! As a side note, does anyone in your area work with a sanding table? There are some factories near me that use them industrially, but they'd charge an arm and a leg for piece work....

Thanks for watching sir.

NOT the least bit effective imho ! No explanation whatsoever AND even worse, no links for any hardware (that he MAY have used) !NOT EVERY WOODWORKER WATCHING THIS HAS YEARS AND YEARS AND YEARS OF EXPERIENCE !

Sorry about that sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

@@j-woodworking9573 igsrp

@@j-woodworking9573 wst

자동대패는 필요합니다 적당한 사이즈로 구매하시고, 가공이 않되는 특별히 큰 사이즈를 이 지그로 가공하면 됩니다 감사합니다

Thanks for watching sir. Greetings from Korea.

Thanks for watching sir.

Sorry I don't know either sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

@@j-woodworking9573 twpittro

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Лутше рейсмус купите. Пусть самый дешовый. А с этой хренью упаритесь. Хороша только в одном случае, когда толшина не принципиальна. Банально 1мм упаритесь ловить.

@@j-woodworking9573 omoo

@@j-woodworking9573 o

I guess only you, lol.

Thanks for watching sir.

Hey, I got the same planer! Was always wondering why I bought it in the first place, it's not a very useful tool at all (not even for finishing, as it can't be dialed to zero depth). Now I see that every impulse buy has a purpose in the end...

Silicon. Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Do yourself a favor and buy the makita 1912B model, because it is wider and longer. Its 4 3/8" width blades are way more convenient than using a smaller, standard hand planer. I have it, and feel it is a way better buy considerning its size, weight, solidity and powerful motor. I have not seen any other larger than 3 1/4" wide electric hand planers. Makita has a monster one at a full 6" width, but it is expensive and not available in my country, but the 1912B is still very convenient overall.

Thanks for watching sir.

A router sled takes off way less material at a time.

There might be more of an adjustment with a router depth wise but I expect this method would provide a flatter finished product overall.

@@devonswindell9735 In my case that's a good thing. I tend to take too much off when I'm using the planer. I can't seem to ever get it right. Maybe I'll have more success with my planer. I keep gouging the wood at the ends. I really want to use my planer so I'll try this for sure.

If you make a rail system which is adjustable, using angled aluminum, for example, with multiple notched attachment points, you can adjust very well.

Thanks for watching brother.

Thanks for your kind advice sir. I'll be careful.

how unpredictable do you expect a table saw to behave with a sharp blade and cutting soft wood? I mean it's not a 100 years oak peace or anything. Simple pine is soft and nice to work with, saw cuts through it like a hot knife through the butter.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

The electric planer doesn't have spiral blade option. Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

감사합니다

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

Thanks for watching sir.

This seems less useful than the router sled approach.

@@bonse3476 You are wrong... the best results are achieved by using a wider than standard hand plane like my Makita 1912B, which has a wider 4 3/8" knives that the usual 3 1/4" wide common planes... Plus it is a winner model for its price and power, quality construction and value. Using a large 3 HP router with a puny, 3/4" or 1" bit, will require tens of additional passes than using a wide Plane like this one, that also causes much less ridges.