I get a fair amount of work that comes from people that thought they could spread 10 or more yards of dirt or rock , they usually call me after three wheel barrow loads. People are very grateful at the end of the day for your help. A day on the tractor is a day well spent.

Great video, content, commentary! Love the gravel driveway work and the spreading of rock!

That was awesome! I had to rake out a truckload of 3/4" Bluestone with a rake and a shovel.... It was a back breaking job! Never again! The difference between leveling 3/4" and the smaller 3/8" is night and day. Great Job! 😃👍

Thank you all for another great video. Tim you did a great job with that blade. Trying to work the hydraulics and not get a washboard affect is tough but you handled it well! I have a Kubota BX24. I have watched a lot of your videos where you use the fel . I must say your tractor has much more lifting power than my BX. I could not begin to lift what your JD does. Again thank you for sharing. Be safe and God bless you and your family!!!!

Great job Tim, it looks good!

We used to "finish" these projects with a home-made tool, 8' of chainlink fence doubled up, bolted (with a steel strip) at the end to a 8" thick piece of telephone pole. Later replaced the pole with a concrete parking bollard.

When it comes to shovelling gravel I'm busy that day, a renter never could have done that. An angled blade with a good operator is the best tool for the job

Hi Guys , came across your channel today , just wanted to say thoroughly enjoyed it and it kept me entertained all day. keep them coming.

If you turn the blade around and drag with the back side of it, it'll smooth out better without using the bottom of your bucket. Down at the farm, we've got a driveway over 1/2 mile long, and just back-drag (with no down hydro pressure) each side angled toward the middle, then back-drag the middle with a straight blade to distribute the row that you just created. It usually works out really well, except I had to actually forward-blade grade it yesterday, because the rain that Owen County got last Sunday night made a bunch of 4" deep trails down the driveway (there's around 300ft of elevation difference), and there's been a lot of logging trucks through there in the last year, so not a ton of free gravel on the top right now. This is with a Deere 5320 and a 6ft Woods blade.

Another finishing trick with your blade is to spin it clear around and then set it down and go round and round. We used to do this all the time to smooth a parking lot. It is just about impossible to "smooth" by pulling the blade facing forward. It always wants to gouge or raise up too much.

Any implement you can get the job done with is the best one! OK, not always, but you got it done, the blade you used seemed to work great to me! Enjoy your videos, keep them coming!

That blade worked great. I know a lot of folks swear by box-blades but I think you had much more control this way. Perhaps if you had needed the teeth to break up the compacted gravel a box-blade would have been handy but with the combination of your toothbar and the little blade you can do most anything. As always very informative and highly entertaining. Thanks for sharing.

Great comment about the jam nut. I've been raking out our new yard and noticed the right side keeps dropping. Wondered why and realized I had to keep wrenching it back up. Will have to tighten that nut and see if it stops it. Great video as always!

It works well to spin blade around 180 degrees so you can pull it with the blade basically backwards for the final pass it does a good job of lightly smoothing things out without digging in much

I just bought a 1025r with loader. I have a pull type box scraper I bought a few years back. The trouble with a mounted blade is when you go over humps it digs in and the opposite in a hole. Looked nice when you got done

Great job, Tim. Your commentary about the box blade was exactly what I was thinking. While you were able to get the job done nicely with the angle blade, I think the box blade would have worked a little faster for you. I have a 1023e with a Frontier 60"box blade I purchased at the same time as the tractor, loader, and a 48" Frontier rotary cutter as a package deal. I was concerned when my dealership recommended the 60" boxblade over the 48" that my little tractor wouldn't be able to pull it with a full with a box full of material. They assured me it would, and I have been pleasantly surprised that my 1023e can pull it fine with as long as I don't have the "teeth" in the lower settings. When I need to use the teeth, I have learned to leave the implement up high enough to not move much material at all with the box. After I have torn up the surface of the dirt or chat with the teeth, I then raise the teeth back up and use the cutting blade alone to smooth it out. You can probably accomplish the same result with your tooth bar on the bucket and rarely use your teeth on the box blade. I also use my box blade teeth in the place of a chisel plow before I go over the garden with my little 12 blade King Kutter disk. I know your tiller is the optimal solution but I decided to spend less money on the disk and use that approach. I get roughly the same effect with this combination as a tiller for a little less money since I already had the box blade. Finally, the last significant benefit of the 60" box blade I will mention is you can spread material very close to a landscape timber, sidewalk, or some other form of barrier because the blade sticks out roughly 6" past the tractor tires on both sides allowing the operator to drive along beside the edge without running over it. If you ever decide to buy a box blade I would recommend a light duty 60" over the 48". I enjoy the videos! Keep it up!

Skip all that box blade talk, a land plane would have been the best tool, but, Tim has the skills to use a BB. Looks great. Keep the videos coming Tim.

Had a similar task and used a York rake,took a little longer but that's all we had and it did a nice job.

A friend of mine had an older style blade for his 8N and we used it on gravel. I wouldn't recommend pushing backwards with it very hard. The pivot and angle adjustment on his broke and the blade folded underneath like tin foil.

Tim, my 2 cents worth, I have both a grader blade and a box blade. They are different implements for different jobs. It is sorta like a rotary cutter and a finish mower. Similar product, but different in so many ways. For future jobs that blade is adjustable. Setting it at an angle to your pull will change the cut of the blade. It will also push most of the material to exit on one side of the blade reducing the ridge to almost nothing on the other side. This cutting action will help it cut down the hump.

Nice video. My favorites are Johnny with the backhoe.

With all the advice you got I think you did great with what you had. But I have a barn to store more equipment if you run out of room. :)

Great vid Tim Smile More God Bless Stay Safe Guys 👍

I've found that a box scraper is *and* the edge of your front blade are better for this. Take the teeth off the bucket and angle the bucket to back-drag and level out the gravel. The box scraper is better for distributing the gravel.

A box blade works amazing! It traps the gravel into the box and levels everything perfectly. I have a huge driveway which is all gravel and I blade it probable every 3 months.

good job as usual. All are awesome!!!!

A little different editing technique there. I liked it! Great job!

Good video, that's all I have for now. Have a wonderful weekend.

Anytime I spread rock, there are 3 implements I use... 1 - Front End Loader to initially move the material from the pile and roughly spread it around. 2 - Box blade to more evenly spread the material and move it from high to low spots. 3 - Landscape rake (rock rake, york rake, whatever you wanna call it) to finish it off and smooth it out. The rake tines allow the rock to pass through where needed to smooth it more evenly than the box blade. It doesn't so much transfer material but smooth it out. You can grab a pile and carry it a short distance but it will eventually just spread it evenly along your path. This works well for dirt also. Think of a garden rake except supersized.

Spin the blade around after you get it roughed in , then it is easier to smooth it out. Great job!

I have a Woods blade but haven't used it yet, but for spreading gravel it will work well. A box scraper though is needed to work up and move compacted material. I have a 60" that keeps the long driveway in shape. I also use it to make drainage swales and crown for drainage.

What you used worked excellent

See my dad went with the York rake on our 1025r. I thought a box blade would be best for maintaining the dirt road. I know northern tool has them relatively cheap in different sizes. Only hundreds of dollars. Too bad I don't have a northern tool nearby

In the UK when operating an Caterpillar 428 180° excavator doing similar work, the 6 in 1 shovel can be used as a dozer/grading blade. When the intial uneven surface is flattened. I would finish off using the shovel in the float position, that is the lever quickly thrust forward to overcome the hydraulics where gravity takes effect causing the shovel to float over the surface by weight alone. Any slight unevenness is eliminated. Followed by a few runs reversing backwards to compact the ground with hydraulic pressure of the shovel even if it means front wheels off the ground and the weight of the machine on the shovel. Different methods for the same result I suppose. :) These machines are made to make manual labour involving a few workers a thing of the past. Nice job well done anyway.

I used a back blade for years in my drive and it worked fine. I now have a box blade, and it is just easier and quicker. With the box blade you don't have to chase down the spillage of the side of the blade. But the blade is cheaper and works. Like anything in life there are trade offs.

Tim, if you needed to get deep. You can turn the blade backwards and push in reverse to get the mound moved fast. BUT GOING IN REVERSE WITH THE BLADE TURNED AROUND YOU MUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO DIG TOO DEEP. That is where a box scraper is nice. The front bit keeps the rear bit from digging too deep and vice versa.

You would not have needed the scarifiers on a box blade but the ability to capture and move the rock could have helped alot. In addition pushing backwards with a box blade acts alot like a mini-bulldozer. For the finish extending out your top-link and letting the back edge smooting the rock gives a really nice finish. Also if you did not have the teeth on your bucket you could use it more effectively at least on this project.

I have found that turning the blade backwards is nice for finishing it off and grading it

Hey Tim I don't know if you read the comments anymore, you are right about locking the 3 point arm, but the top one you don't because you need to be able to adjust the top arm as you go. The longer the top arm the more it cuts the shorter the arm for fine tuning.

just set a few sacks of cement on that 3 point and your set, i put plywood in the A part of the blade and set 2 sacks on it- if you run out of traction just grab a bucket of gravel- this is when you can feel the lack of power when doing long roads in high range, prob not the best on my hydro trans though

Great video!

looks like you did a great jod, what did you charge that guy for a job like that?

We're did you get the teeth bar for your bucket? I have a 4310 that would work wonderfully on. And make some bolt on side for your back blade and you will have a little more caring capacity with your blad.

Good job Tim. A single section of drag harrow or a piece of railroad iron behind the blade on the last pass, would have finished it off nicely where no raking was required. Of course you would have to have a GRAPPLE to pick it up off the trailer. :)

have to get you a box blade for work like that.

Great job! The story of the renters - one working to spread the gravel and the other not - reminded me of the story of “The Three Little Pigs” where one of the three worked hard, building his house out of bricks which the fox could not blow down. Maybe the non-participating renter “out FOXED” the landlord - knowing that the landlord would not leave the gravel piled up and unused. The identity of the real fox will not be known without knowing if a rental increase occurs for the non-participating renter.

I bought a frontier 60 back blade today. Don’t really have a use for it but I may paint it and sell it for more.

Tim, did you consider using the front blade that I saw on one of your earlier videos? It might have helped you get closer to the tree line as you discussed in the video. On the other hand, maybe you felt that it wouldn't be strong enough for the job?

Did you try turning the rear blade around backwards and pushed with it that way?

Has anyone figured out how to mount a grader blade under the 1025r using the loader mounts?

You did a great job Tim have you thought about putting weights on the blade where you can add and take off as needed ? take care and God bless ! Curt

5:46 Yes! I've noticed that my turbuckles are vibrating and causing too much sway. I have to get out and adjust them quite a bit.

A land grader would have worked as well but those implements DON'T have a closed back for carrying material. With the open back, material rolls over the 2 blade edges and levels using a larger area and skids that allow it stay level on uneven ground.

I have a question. With tour side jobs you are able to do with the tractor, how many years would it take for Johnny to pay for himself? I know that is sort of a complex question.

Tim, have you used a box grader?

Tim I deliver and spread shell in driveways if you take the teeth off of your bucket and use the bucket you have to back drag you cannot grade going forwards

Another attachment would be a York rake , you got the job done with what you had and that's what matters.

You needed a landleveler it's like a box blade but it built a little different 👍👍

That blade looks to be shaped about perfect for the work you were doing. I've had blades in the past that had a cutting edge that was too aggressive which made doing fine grading difficult. Even adjusting the top link didn't help much. Yours looks like it would be a good snow blade as well. As for running out of space when working near the edges, your blade should turn 180-degrees so you could push backwards.

Good work with the blade. Do you have a landscape rake?

Yes I agree, a box blade would've been good to use as well. Thanks for sharing your video. I like your chain hooks on your bucket. What is the center piece on the top middle of your bucket. I can't tell what it is. Love the agressive tooth bar as well

You should look into ABI gravel rascal.

The one thing I really miss on the loader is self leveling. I'm sjusted to payloader that has it.

Next time you paint your bucket that would be a great video to post for winterizing the tractor. Where did you get the paint?

That's a mean bucket you got there Tim, where'd ya get the bucket teeth. I need some for my 3 buckets. thanks, john

TKS FOR ALL UR VIDEO'S, HOW COME ON UR 3PT HITCH THEY ONLY GIVE ONE ADJ. TURNBUCKEL YES THEY GIVE ONE FOR CENTER TOP, AND RIGHT SIDE THE OTHER IS STRIGHT ROD. IM TRYING TO ADJ. THE SCRAPER FOR A 2X12 PITCH FOR LANDSCAPING. I JUST CAN'T SEEM TO GET THE SCRAPER TO STAY ON THE ANGLE. HELP PLEASE.

I was thinking box blade when you said it. But then I started thinking about how we could justify a new 2025R with a cab and a grapple from this project. I'll let you know if I come up with something. hehe....On a side note, where's Katriel been lately?

Is that a 5 foot blade? I no 2 years late. I just bought that same tractor and am curious.

Hey Tim have you ever had any problems with your tires on the front bulging

Tim have you ever heard of the ABI TR3 rake for road grading and maintenance. If you have what are your thoughts

Hey guys i work at tarter farm and ranch idk if you have heard much about them but we make all tsc 3 point hookup attachments i can prob get something worked out with getting it quick hitch cause we make johndeere too we make the quick hitches themselvs to

dos your blade turn around like most do

Can you use this back blade for snow and can i get one for my x739 john deere?

when you guys getting the new john dree tractor

Box blade would not been any better. You did a great job with that plow

I have a 1025r which I really like. I get a lot of work stump grinding but can't seem to get the other type of work you get, spreading gravel removing hedges etc. what method would you recommend for expanding my tractor business?

I'm sure the debate about box blade versus grader blade will rage forever, but if one can afford both, why not? My question: How much box blade can the 1025r pull? f course, a 48" would be nice for getting through narrow access openings, and will barely cover the tire tracks. Also, I have seen some much larger tractors (Kubotas) with bigger wheels and the same 25hp engine pulling a 60" box blade. Have you done much box work and do you think the 60" box might be a bit too much drag for the 1025r? I'm leaning towards the 48" mainly for the convenience of slipping through narrow gates.

So when is the new 2025R coming?

If you had angle the blade by one or two holes it would've worked a little bit better, it would cut into the gravel better, then straight dragging .

Tim, what do you charge per hour in your area?

yeah, box blade would have been best but the rear blade will get the job (as you have seen) just fine. I just think the box blade would have been a little faster. But again on a small project like this. Its almost not worth the hassle of changing implements. As always great job great video and God Bless

where did you get the tooth bar ?

A land plane would have been great, but given what you had you did a fantastic job. Unless you have a lot of leveling jobs lined up, I bet the finance dept. will deny the request for a land plane or box blade. 😉

Is is a mower, is it a tiller, is it a dozer, is it a backhoe, no, it's Johnny the Swiss army tractor. Doesn't have to be fancy, you got the job done and that's what counts.

Box blade definitely would've worked better for leveling that but interesting seeing another approach

Nothing beats a good back blade. You could of tried angling it.

How come you didn't turn your blade around ?

Great job with the back blade Tim! I have a couple of hundred yards of gravel driveway and I am looking at the various implements I can use to maintain it. What would your thoughts be between a box blade, land plane or landscape rake for this task? Mick

How do you advertise your services? Want to buy a tractor. Don't have a large lot. Would use for firewood and other small jobs. Would like to do small jobs to help pay for the machine and attachments. What was the major reason for the John Deere over a BX? I know you are a JD man by looking at the family farm 😀

ues the tooth bar and backdrag it with the loader

Yeah it's a bulge on the inside front left it's still there even without the load I took the tire off deflated it and it went away a little bit

A TR3 Rake would have been another implement. With it having capabilities of a landscape rake, box scraper, pulverizer, and land plane. Look up ABI/TR3. But Johnny MAY NOT have enough power to lift and pull one. But they (TR3) are expensive. And it is quick hitch acceptable. You would have to see one work to get a better idea of its abilities. just another idea.

Good job

good job

"IF" the material had been packed more, shortening the 3rd point can assist in the blade digging more or lengthening will be more shallow of a cut. And if you have the lines from the side , turn the blade around 180 degrees and "float" the blade around the lot to smooth out the lines of gravel. If you really need to dig, leave the blade in the reverse mode and back up to dig harder packed material. Too many ways to do this job. Loader only could have certainly done the job as well,

We need a bloopers video!!

You needed the land lever attachment.

Hi will you hit by the hurricane that goes over DO and co

Hydraulic third link is all u need make Johnny 😆😃

I have a 4' box blade you can borrow anytime if you want to try it out Tim. Only live 20 minutes from you.