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I appreciate you saying that...thanks for watching!!

More to come!...I appreciate you watching.

@@PPG1967 I really enjoy applying code on my job. It's refreshing to hear someone actually using it. Thank you!

Like any rule or law there are always exceptions and doesn’t mean a real problem

I appreciate your feedback. I got a lot of videos coming, I just need to find the time to edit them...thanks for watching!!

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Wow...interesting. I hope everything works out.

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Please clarify what you mean by you can not sub contract your plumbing and electrical. General contractors hire sub contractors. You must mean, you were doing plumbing and electrical yourself, or your keywords led people to believe you were licensed to do it.

​@@Californians_go_home exactly what I was thinking lol. I'm an employee of a general contractor for remodeling in western NY, and normally people choose general contractors because they act as the intermediary for all of the different trades that need to come in to do work

MORE ways democrat laws screw the little guy. I have been a democrat for 40 years, now NEVER again.

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@Kernica1 Then why can't we use Romex?

and he responds, "Yup violations everywhere already...its in your face"

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Where are you located?…what code book are you referencing?

I appreciate your feedback. Welcome aboard.

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Ok, I appreciate your commenting.

I appreciate your feedback.

You are correct in most states the expansion tank is sufficient

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Oh ok...what Plumbing Code are you using??

@@PPG1967 it's basically the UPC

Here in NC, venting for gas tankless water heaters must be no less than 12” apart. You can utilize internal air as long as you have the correct cubic sq ft for the btu. Also the thermal expansion tank can be mounted on “rigid” pipe, such as copper.

God I want a plumbe in New York it’s basically the exact same as San Francisco Plumbing well how it used to be like anyways now they’re starting to use plastics and things of that nature that it was all cast-iron and it was all real Plumbing and everything was tight in right God I want a Plumbing New York

They also prop up pipes on loose wood chocks with plastic band iron straps. 😂

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Dishwashers have a high loop installed on the side of the dishwasher so the one under the sink is not really necessary but I always looped them up just to keep as much stagnant water out of the line as possible. Realistically there should be an air gap on top of the sink but that’s one code that most inspectors realize is stupid.

@@BlueDart1971 your right there’s a high loop on the side of the dishwasher, inspectors in my county will fail one every time if you don’t have a secondary high loop. But you are right my friend. Have a good work week.

@@plumbbuild6517 my work week doesn’t involve plumbing very often anymore. It involves renters paying me:) After 30+ years of plumbing my body is shot. To all of you that work your butt off every day make sure you take care of your body.

Hmm, where I'm located, you'd need an air-gap, not just a high-loop. Though I do understand that not every AHJ has implemented or enforces this requirement.

It's in the video sir... all code references are out of the 2018 IPC, International Plumbing Code. Not the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC)...two different code books.

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I appreciate that... stay tuned, more to come.

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I deal with those type of violations all of the time...thanks for watching!!

Welcome... I appreciate you watching!!

So, my videos... and I've stated this a million times, only reference the 2018 IPC (International Plumbing Code) not the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code). I live in Georgia, the I.C.C. Code Books are the ones we've adopted.

You guys kill me.. you watch my videos to find something inaccurate, instead of taking this opportunity to learn something new...nice try sir 😅

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Me too. Got fed up and routed them 10 feet apart.

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The codes in the IRC are straight out of the IPC. For example, in the video, I referenced section 409.4 in the IPC, which is in the IRC at P2717.2. I also referenced section 312.5 in the video, which is in the IRC at P2503.7.

@@PPG1967 thank you for clarifying that.

So, you're saying they are not allowed ??

@@PPG1967 Correct, in short state and local code will require that the manufacture installation requirements be met on their product.

Also check the IPC 2021 code book section 918.8 Air admittance valves / prohibited installation. Air admittance valves shall not be used to vent sumps or tanks without engineers design.

What if the unit is discharged to the exterior of the house and does not connect to a plumbing system?

​@@PPG1967I'm not sure, but I believe this is related to the code changes implemented to require pre-fitting for radon mitigation during new build construction.

So, we use the IPC (International Plumbing Code) not the UPC.

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Thanks for the sub!

What code book are you referencing???...my videos based on the IRC or IPC.

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Let me guess, the UPC???

Ok, I appreciate your feedback

Ok, I appreciate your feedback.

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@@PPG1967 I was a handyman for about 15 years. You cannot imagine the amount of fuckery the 20 years of homeowners doing plumbing repairs and electrical repairs under a sink can lead to lol. Yeah switch out the faucet should be you know half an hour 45 minutes tops. 6 hours in with a Dremel tool ... Save the sink!!!. Are having a six-way gang box with six extension cords under the sink holes drilled into the cabinet bases to run the extension cords to the outside through a cat door and to the inside because it was an old house..." I don't know why it keeps popping but I'm tired of it...

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Well, it's easier to determine where a leak is coming from with water.

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(Not a plumber) but a slow air leak is harder to detect than a seep. Gauges just aren't that accurate. (IMO)

The violations must be corrected before they can schedule a re-inspection. Typically the jurisdiction will charge a fee ($50) that must be paid before they can rescheduled.

So, it's whatever state has adopted the 2018 IPC (International Plumbing Code)

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That's true...a lot of people don't know that.

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So, those were two different houses.

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Ok, I appreciate your comment.

That's true...I appreciate your feedback.

They are normally installed at the washing machine box at the shut-off valve....they're visible.

Yes sir, he sure did.

So, I've addressed this probably 5 or 6 times. My videos reference the International Code Books..IPC, IRC, IMC, IFGC..etc

That code that you're referring to is out of the Uniform or National Plumbing Code. I live in Georgia, we've adopted the IPC (International Plumbing Code)

Thanks for commenting.

So, what plumbing code book are you referencing sir???

That video is based on the 2018 International Plumbing Code (IPC).

I use both codes but I am more familiar with UPC. However the things I mentioned, I thought were in both codes. I stand corrected. They may be old codes that some plumbers/inspectors still follow. The only one I’ll still stand by is tank with crimp pex. It looked like 3/4. If so, it would be illegal because it has a smaller ID than the t&p valve does due to the fittings not being full port. As for the second paragraph, I didn’t mean to argue that that was codes but just what our local inspectors tend to allow whether or it’s legal per code.

@@joshcowart2446 I thought they have to have at least 18” of hard pipe off the heaters too

No worries...thanks for watching!!

I appreciate your commenting, however this video is based on the IRC or IPC...not UPC

So, you just plug the shower drains and fill the bathtubs up to the overflow outlet. It's about making sure the sanitary lines are full of water.

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It's about what codes your state has adopted. This video may not apply to every area.

You do have to slope your vent lines sir...

I always post what code book I'm referencing. International Code Books. If you use these books, my videos are applicable. My videos are based on the Code or manufacturer's installation instructions.

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I think was 3/4"...I think code says it must be 3/4"

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You're a genius..

I'm in Georgia. We use the IPC (International Plumbing Code)

Yes, the intake and exhaust must terminate on the exterior..per manufacturer's installation instructions.

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@@PPG1967 yes 🙌🏾. Manufacturers specifications trump the code in some instances

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Ok, interesting comments.. thanks for watching !!

@@PPG1967 thanks I has just trolling a little bit but anyone who’s in the building trades knows someone who my original comment applies too. Whoever the Plumber was on this job wasn’t the target of my comment, I didn’t get to see enough of his work to criticize the final rough in part of the job.

Oddly specific details.

Didn't era, didn't construction materials, didn't appliances sir.

We allow air to be used.

So, my videos are based on ICC Code Books. That video references the 2018 IPC (International Plumbing Code). Check to see if your city or state has adopted this Code Book.

Remember Code is Law!!

Thanks for watching!!

What code book are you referencing???....my videos are based on the IPC, not the UPC.

You probably should check with a competent plumbing contractor in your area.

Oh ok..I didn't know that. That's manufacturer's installation instructions?

@@PPG1967 I think everyone. It may be low heat but still to hot for foam core.

Oh ok.. thanks for catching that.

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Lol, that is not a vent you goose. The pvc pipe goes thru the 2x4 wall stud and there is a sanitary tee. Vent is going up behind the stud. At 6:43 mark you can see very small part of the white pvc vent going up along the wall stud by the bathtub. Who made you plumber? I am not even a plumber, haven't even glued two pieces of pipe in my life but i can figure it out.

That was a 2nd standpipe, probably for AC condensate. Totally acceptable.

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No, the trade does not have to be there. It's to their advantage to be present at the inspection, so they can fully understand any violations. I normally email the results.

@@PPG1967 in your emailing or any inspectors, do they say exactly what’s wrong and what to satisfy?

@@joshuacassino7297 yes

These videos are based on the IPC, not the UPC.

So, I live in Georgia. We use the IPC (International Plumbing Code). What you are referring to is in the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code). I don't know or use the UPC.

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@@PPG1967 thxz

Sorry, you probably need to tune in to another channel for that. I appreciate you watching.

Read that section again, the 10 foot of head only applies if you're only testing new sections of plumbing.

If testing an entire new plumbing system, then the system should be filled up to the highest opening..typically the bathtub overflow... unless there's a washing machine box on the top level.

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@@PPG1967 Think about it, the highest opening would be the vent through the roof. It clearly say's to the highest opening til over flow. That would not be the bath or the lavatory.

Fixture sir, highest fixture.

So, you should check with your local or city building department.

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So, is that the UPC??

If that left pipe in the laundry box is for an aav it’s on the wrong side of the trap

All code related issues. You don't use code books in your area?

Really?... oh ok

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Dude, I can't understand most of what you've written.

I got it honestly say I’m being a little rude in this post and I wanna apologize. This guy was going through some of the code violations to only help the plumbers out there and this isn’t like an ego thing so I got a minute I was probably having a bad day and being very self act like not having a lot of confidence so I kind of put it out on this guy and ultimately, if he was standing next to me, I would be feeling really bad right now. I kind a need to realize that I’ve never really written his post before. I was just trying something new on the computer because I was needing to distract myself and I got a remember. I am actually talking to a man who’s making a livelihood and is actually trying to help the world out and I appreciate that and for me to nitpick every aspect of everything is kind of not really cool with me so that post above was very rude

Do you reiterate, not his post but my post that he reacted to was kind of not cool of me so bad Mikey that’s my name Mikey and I wasn’t doing good. I thought I was talking to a brick wall that nobody would read and that’s not true and now I realize it sorry world not cool with me.

These videos don't reference the UPC sir... the 2018 IPC.

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You find anything else??.

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If you don't loop the DW drain line then all that dirty water flows back into the DW and is mixed with your final fresh water rinse cycle.

Consult with a competent plumber in your state.

So, what code book are you referencing ??

did manufactures change this recently for sch40 PVC pipe, including thin wall pipe? --electrical conduit is normally rated for UV (exposed to sun) but that is electrical conduit, not plumbing, for tankless water heaters that can and do use pvc pipe for inlet and outlet exhaust, PVC generally is not rated for UV or less special manufacture product for inlet/outlet that goes on outside of house (but not always rated for UV) --DWV (drain waste vent) is normally not rated for UV. sch80 PVC might be UV rated but doubtfull. --it should be in older codes 2015 maybe ealier? --DWV pipe only time it is normally installed is if it is burried or install in a wall, or floor, or ceiling were UV (sun light) does not come in direct contact with pipe. the rare times it does come in contact with sun is.... ----sepetic tank field might have 2 to 4 pipe vents coming just to ground that might need some UV protection just above ground.(most folks will get a UV rated cap for like draining gutters into yard pop caps for septic tank vents *i do not remember specific name they are called*) ----the main DWV vent (residental) top of roof normally, but many times a proper roof flashing / vent is installed to keep water going back into home, and sch40 or thin wall pipe is not exposed to the UV (sun). ----then tankless water heaters is big trouble. not sure of latest manufacture install requirements, but they want inlet air and exhaust air to be out and away from home. THAT were issues come in. i do not know exact code but if it is a couple inches i think code begin requires the pvc to be protected. the couple inches just enough so when pvc pipe becomes yellish? brownish? vs new installed white and becomes brittle, the pvc pipe still **hopefully** a good solid connection to side of home so the brittleness is less of an issue. if it is longer than those couple inches from side of home then it requires protection. code states exact length / dimensions. --off top of head i don't remember spay can paint type (pickup pretty much any store that sales spray can paint) there is a heat rating though may need to check larger hardware store for higher heat for the exhaust vent for tankless hot water heater. (there is a heat rating going out the exhaust that needs to pay attention to, and you might end up in automotive spray can paint isle) some folks might scuff up outside of pipe some with sand paper to give a little extra catch for paint to hold onto. --other folks might use foam insulation (buy in a roll like tape), most hardware stores should have. that tape foam easier work with around fittings and pipe. ---the higher effencity furnaces that can use sch40 pvc pipe also has same issue of possibly needing to protect the pipe outside of home. --side note. CPVC (not pvc) generally is UV rated, it is used more times for pressure relief and heat relief pipe, and is rated for higher temps for portable water in home. and is more likely to be installed on (any given hot water heater) were there might be a window that lets sun in directly on the pipe. last thing you want is high heat water going bursting due to pipe becoming brittle due to UV rays of sun. but CPVC is water and made smaller diameter.

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