A pond place's advice vs. the manufacturer's advice. We say cooler because the coating will set up at a manageable rate as opposed to a hot day where the coating may heat up and run away from you. Cooler is better.

Look at the Instructions link on top of the Pond Armor website for information regarding thinning. You cannot extend the pot life but you can mix less material to give yourself more time to work with it.

Just use Pond Shield as the resin instead of the polyester resin. It will work the same way. That way you can keep the toxic element out of your system.

The ratios you need are found in the instruction sheet that came with the kit. If you no longer have that, you can see them online here at: www.pondarmor.com/instructions/

@@PondArmorEpoxy thank you!

@@annebellflower4298 You're welcome!

@@PondArmorEpoxy It does not say how much alchohol to use

@@kemotheconsumer The instruction sheet lays all of that out. If you do not have yours, you can visit www.pondarmor.com/instructions/ and see them there.

We've had people use it for hot tubs in the past successfully. Bear in mind two things. The coating is slippery when wet. Sprinkle a little clear sand on your last wet coat to act as non skid and make sure to let the coating cure for 3-4 days before putting it into service in those temperatures.

Well, epoxy and fiberglass are two different things. Epoxy is a resin and fiberglass would be the medium suspended within and emulsion. But I know what you're really asking here, however it is important for my answer to make sense by understanding the difference between the two as you had asked. When people speak of fiberglass, they are almost always referring to fiberglass cloth and the polyester resin it is suspended in. The polyester is more often than not a material that is not inert after it cures meaning it will leech off toxins even though it is cured. Our coating is indeed inert and will not leech off toxins after it is cured. That means you could swap out the polyester resin for Pond Shield and get the same finished results but without the toxicity involved. Hope that helps.

Either denatured alcohol or 90% or higher rubbing alcohol or 180+ drinking alcohol.

denatured alcohol can contain additives that make it "denatured" and these might not be safe for fish

@@bigmikesvinyl8514 It would be used to thin epoxy RESIN so would have ZERO effect on fish or anything else.

@@joeblow1942 I was more referring to something that would leach out over time. Not sure what they are using to "denature" these days but as long as it is volatile then maybe it all goes away. But just because you are mixing it with resin does not mean that it is trapped forever. For instance you could not mix some of the pigment powders with it and and be sure they would not leach into the water over time.

@@bigmikesvinyl8514 Epoxy resin seals far better than polyester which is why most epoxies can be safely used to line containers used for food. On the scale of potential environmental issues, alcohol as a thinner would be at the bottom of the list.

Has to be your settings, we can hear it on several different machines here.

Yeah I can hear it also