Yeah, Ford's monobeam suspension is kind of silly-- the track bar is angled down stock. If it's raised, the mounting location should move down commensurate with the amount of lift to avoid jerkiness and such. I was always taught that the track bar should be parallel with the drag link as much as possible to avoid issues.

The 6” fit was already instaed on one when I bought it

Have you ever replaced the joints at the front wheels? They dry up and start popping. In Fords infinite wisdom, they made them sealed. Jack up the front, lock in hubs manually, have a helper steer through the range L/R while you spin the wheel. Feel for sticking or binding at any point during a turn. Both in the steering wheel and the actual front wheels. Or, just replace them, if you haven't it's probably time.

Is your lift kit just lift blocks or was it a purpose-built kit for your truck with suspension mounts to correct the geometry of lifting it?

@@USAF99 Hello USAF 99. My 2002 Ford 150 SuperCrew 2 wheel drive I bought the truck 3 years ago it was lifted already with Rubber 2 inch Daystar spring spacers up front and it had longer shocks and aftermarket lift coil springs. In the rear blocks were used. I’m thinking total lift on truck was 4 inches has big tires and 17 inch rims has a 411 posi rear in the rear end. Truck had no popping sound, only time it made a funny creaking noises was when I would take a drive way at an angle. Well just recently I had a shop remove the Daystar spacers and install 3.5 steel spacers on top of the coil springs And had front end rebuilt. I gained 2 inches of lift. now the truck still creaks at the drive ways plus now seems like the suspension is in a bind. Has A loud pop from the drivers side when I pull away slowly and turn the wheel. So I guess to answer your question ? No The lift was not a purpose built lift kit. I took the truck back the guy checked all the bolts made sure all were tight and lubed all zerts again he said well the noise is less bring it back next week so I can check it again but the noise is still there nothing got better. I told the tech something is off geometry seems like suspension is binding he says everything looks great on the alignment rack front to back all specs are good Caster Camber The toe etc…….

Update 3/24 The shop found the driver’s side lower ball joint popped up out of place. I had just replaced them but the tech said maybe the lower control arms are wore out and it will not hold the ball joints so he recommended replacing both lower control arms which come with new ball joints and bushings put the truck back on the alignment rack rechecked all the bolts and alignment we are good to go 👍that made a big difference the truck has 180,000 miles plus they have seen better days. Well that took care of the popping front end and also feels tighter and smoother when I turn the wheel when I’m applying the brakes or going over speed bumps or drive ways at an angle. I did ask the tech about what you say the suspension and steering being free and correct geometry he said everything checks out good on the alignment rack front to back. Camber Caster Toe all good no binding in the steering!

@@joecarreon4824 Outstanding. Glad you got it figured out, that was going to be my next suggestion if the suspension geometry was correct. Glad you got a hold of a good shop that didn't try to sell you half a truck in parts and your problem is fixed. **Edit** Also THANK YOU for coming back and replying what fixed it for you. That gives others ideas on what to check as they read comments.

@@USAF99 I really enjoyed your video it helped to take a second look and keep pushing to get the truck fixed and corrected! Also helped to check the geometry and squareness of the lift. I did like you said with a plumb bob on a string off of the bump stops on a level surface, measured and checked the steering from the steering box bolts pit man arm that nut is tight had the tech re torqued all bolts so we we are all good now!!