Thanks! When I started out, I looked for a detailed DIY and couldn't find anyone who'd posted it. I wanted to make the DIY I wish I'd had from the start!

Thank you! I love hearing from other Porsche owners who use these videos! It's why I take the time to make them.

Thank you, sir! I also hate it when people talk down to you!

Right on! I'll continue to add to this library of videos!

Thank you, sir!

That's awesome! I love hearing that other Porsche diyers are getting out there and working on these cars! You are yet another person to confirm that the majority of our cars do not have problems. Thanks!

Shucks, thanks! You're an ok guy, yourself.

Thanks for watching!

I definitely will!

Interesting, quick question: for the IMS project, does it matter where the cams are locked so long as they don't move and disturb the timing?

Burner's Cars It should be fine either way but I would suggest putting it on tdc for cyl1 compression stroke just to be safe.

Awesome! You're going to love your Boxster! I'm assuming you're going to track the Boxster as well? It's not necessary to mark the chain tensioners. Just make sure you keep track of which tensioner goes where.

thanks for the speedy reply. just watched your vids on making your own tools. Had to do similar things with the miata. I would like to get the boxster on the track, but its just to pretty! Prolly get another track dog miata to flog on the track. Or, may be save for a newer boxster and use this one later down the road. Thanks again for the awesome vids!

Thanks! I'm using a Sachs clutch and pressure plate. Keeping it pretty stock. There is a groove cut into the outer race of the bearing that had a retaining ring in it. You can't see it when the bearing is in the car (and can't remove it). When I upload the video about the condition of my bearing, you should be able to see it better.

Awesome! And excellent work on the engine drop! I think you should probably lock the cams first. The IMS cover is what holds that end of the shaft in place.

Burner's Cars , Ya man, Thank you for your videos, I have had a couple 911s, my 2002 986 base model, jumped a tooth, bent the valves... just found a 68k motor out of a front end damaged car, doing the ims , bought the Pelican p ims, yes, bought the outrageously expensive tool, I plan to replace the bearing again for piece of mind, so, my car is a tiptronic automatic transmission, extra bs , I have been watching your videos for inspiration and guidance, I can do a911 Motor swap in my sleep, the 986 is a bit technical.. any hints for the tip trans? Thanks again

Burner's Cars , Hi, also, you didn't have to support the Motor from below? After you removed the transmission? Did you use a top cross brace attached to the circle hook? Thanks man

Yes! Thanks! I have been driving quite a bit... probably already have a couple thousand miles. So far, everything feels good. I'll try to get a driving video up soon!

I'd sure like to here a response to this.

I've been following his videos for this project, and the flange covering my IMS was extremely difficult to remove. After the fact, I looked up LN Engineering's manual. It said it should not take excessive force; if it does then you probably didn't remove all 3. The third tensioner that he didn't remove in the video tensions the chain between the crank and the IMS, so it will have a tendency to pull the IMS upward, off-center from the bearing's center bolt which would explain the difficulty. To be honest I don't think him removing the 2 tensioners accomplished anything here; unless all 3 are removed, the IMS will be under tension making everything harder. Even so, it looked like it turned out fine for him so I'm just going to mirror what he did. Removing all 3 tensioners also makes the IMS all loose and floppy, which is a little unnerving... Wish he would respond but seems like he's been AWOL for a while

Ben removed tensioners from the two chains running off the rear of the IMS, which is fine as it will stop the shaft moving when the bearing is removed. The tensioner for the left bank is at the front of the engine where the shaft is anchored by a separate bearing, so no need to remove that one.

No, you don't need to worry about it. You will need to hold the flywheel in place however, as it will spin when you try to loosen the bolts. Use a locking tool or chain like I did in this video when you both remove and install the flywheel: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5pyedd31s6zf2w.html You should be good with just that. no locking in TDC is necessary.

Hi Nathan. I'm glad you're finding this project useful! I love hearing about others who are tackling these challenging projects! Keep me updated with your progress on your 911! I've been meaning to provide more details about the cam locking tools, so I went ahead and wrote up the details in a blog post: burnerscars.blogspot.com/2016/09/how-to-make-your-own-special-tools-for.html I wonder if it really makes sense to replace your IMS bearing... your 911 is a dual row which is relatively reliable. If it has had regular oil changes and you've inspected it, you might just want to leave it alone. The bearing I used had a C3 clearance rating.

Thank you very much for the additional information. As always its a very good write up. The more I think about it the more I feel like I should wait at least till I replace the clutch again to tackle the IMSB.

After cutting apart and inspecting my dual row bearing, I think I would have done the same.

Thank you for the question! If I understand your question, I think I have an answer. The camshaft rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft. This means that if one camshaft is correctly aligned and you rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees, it will no longer be correctly aligned. If you rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees in the same direction, the camshaft should come back to the correct alignment. If that describes your situation, then everything is working properly. Hope this helps!

Probably at least $10-$15k... It turns out Porsche won't replace just the IMS bearing... Instead, they replace the entire intermediate shaft (bearing and all) with a later design... a process that requires you to rebuild the engine.

Buddy of mine had his done and said it was a couple grand.

I’d like to hear an answer to that too. I want to change my lower tensioner and am nervous to do so without the tool to lock the cams.

@@roberteddy8760 hello. i sold the car dec 18 but i just tightened the bolt very slightly. stopped the leak

This is a 2000 3.2. You might have a single row bearing instead of a double row (narrower IMS bearing). It's a little unclear when Porsche switched, but otherwise, I would expect your engine to be nearly identical.

Thank you for the reply. You're video's are very informative and detailed. You instill confidence. Cheers.

After a good night of rest, and the help of club911.net french forum, everything is ok now. I probably lost my clear-sightedness yesterday after too many hours in the workshop + a misunderstanding of the procedure. At the beginning I was trying to put the timing tool in bank 1 and 2 in the same time. Then, trying to focus, I probably failed to align it, despite 5 or 6 crankshaft 360°. It's ok now. Let's continue with the tablet in the workshop ;-)

I'm glad to hear you were able to sort it all out and make progress! I often find a good night of sleep changes things! Keep up the excellent work, and let me know how the project goes! -Burner

Hello, glad to see your answer ;-) My IMS job is done, so -I think- I better understand now the timing of the engine. I took a moment to analyse the different sources of inspiration or information I took, among which your super cool set of videos for the global IMS project. May I humbly share with you a question on this episode, in which it could have a mistake, in relation with my misunderstanding. It seems you put the timing tools in both bank 1 and bank 2 in the same time, what was impossible for me. The difference with me is that first you have a 5 chains engines, and second, you built your tools. So my hypothesis is that you succeeded in putting the 2 tools simultaneously because you made them in a 4 mm steal sheet, while the camshaft slot is 6 mm large, and because it's a single camshaft procedure. But, if someone uses 6mm large tool like the official 9686 tool (6 mm large, except where you have the screw), this may be impossible. I think the good way may be to secure bank 1 only, slot pulley side, which means crankshaft sprocket ims bearing side, where the risk of chain jump is the highest. Trying to put a second 9686 or 6 mm tool in the same time doesn't work. To work 100% secure, it is necessary to build a modified 9686 type tool, like in the Bentley video (but not the book...), and to put it in bank 2 simultaneously. Sorry if this is not clear, but if my hypothesis is correct, I thought you could be interested in what didn't allow me to reproduce your procedure. By the way I think what you did is correct, except that your tool may have had 2 mm play in the slot. An other conclusion of my misunderstanding analysis is that I didn't well made the difference between the timing locking process (different methods in books or web), and the check of the timing after the ims job. Book like 101 projects can be a bit confusing for a beginner like me, when talking about different methods. Here it is... thanks again for your massive job for the community ! Seb

Yep. Sorry about that... got to remember a belt...