Thanks for the comment. Im very familiar with wet sanding but the sand papers I was using were not wet sand paper. In the past when I’ve wetted sand paper that isn’t classified as wet sand paper it falls a part.

Adding a few drops of dish soap to your bowel of water helps to keep the fine wet/dry from clogging. Just "rinse" the paper in your bowel fairly often to keep it washed. I learned this when dad fixed a ding in the fender. When he was done you could tell there had ever been any damage. (There was some hammering and filler involved, then glazing putty. That was left to set up and then he sanded and did the paint and wet sand.

Thanks so much. I can’t wait too.

That is totally it I bet I’ve been randomly having that issue and it hasn’t happened enough for me to properly troubleshoot it. Thanks for the tip I will definitely try it.

Yeah they are fantastic. Glad I could show you something new. 😃

@@ItsMeaDMaDe I used your link, hopefully it gave you the affiliate sale. I had several other things as well based on watching your video. I’m now much more enthusiastic about sanding hard to reach areas of models!

Wow that’s crazy. Makes sense. Might have to try it.

@@ItsMeaDMaDe good luck and Greetings from Germany 😉

Came to say same thing lol.

Could you do the same thing with straight up talc powder?

This method is fantastic!

Glad you liked it. That is a big model to have that many pieces. 😳

Pretty good idea. I got it at a painting conference

Yeah I heard. That is why I just linked the model instead of his patreon. I hope he started it up again. He is super talented and I love his style.

I’ve been using resin for 3 years now and never had any issues due to the fact I’m always safe and use proper protection. The recommended practice to change a filter by 3M (the one I use) is a maximum of every six months. I’m not using mine every day since I’m not always using resin or sanding. So I change mine every six months to be safe.

@@ItsMeaDMaDe thanks.

I use resin almost every day but I'm a messy dude so it's always getting in contact with my skin, even when I try to be careful. Luckily I haven't developed any allergic reactions yet. I use respirators but no glasses because they get foggy (really humid and hot weather here and the mask releases air upwards) I noticed that when I used glasses I was actually putting myself in danger because I couldn't really see what I was doing. I haven't used resin for more than a year but I haven't noticed problems yet

@@Sasaroly Thank you very much

Personally I always prime it makes an even coat of paint for me to lay down on my base layers and it shows imperfections before I start

Agree with this. I use chitubox pro, which has option for heavy/medium/light preset. I found that using anything other than light causes the divots. So now i just use lots of light supports and if the piece is larger that I'm printing, I will just use a few medium supports in strategic locations with extra light supports... you can basically put as many light supports in as you want and it won't cause the divots.

@Jaosn Fuller free chitubox also has the light/medium/heavy presets. I tend to use Heavy for bases and the backs of prints and medium/light for front or delicate pieces. I just cover the divots afterwards. Easier for me than spending hours manually placing supports (Something that also increses the risk of catastrophic failure for me because I never mastered it)

@@Sasaroly hours placing supports? Does the free version of chitubox not have automatic support placements? I use automatic supports in the pro version and then use the feature that automatically takes me to overhangs that it couldn't put supports in to manually add them. Then I just throw in some more supports where I think it's needed. Afterwards I use pixel island detection feature in the pro version that detects islands per pixel to edit the pixels on each slice to clean it up....the pixel clean up is what takes the longest.

@@resresres1 Yes it does, but it only uses the support kind you selected (light if you have light selected and so on) thus you can't use it for precise placement as is, you have to go around manually adding/removing supports once Chitubox is done with the automatic placement. If you prepare multiple prints in a row it ends up consuming a lot of time. I rather prefer printing once with automatic placement and if I'm not satisfied with the results I get on it and start switching things up manually the second time. The other tools you mentioned, I get them with UV Tools

@@Sasaroly ah, well I found that it doesn't take me that long to add supports in after the automatic placement, because with light supports you can just throw in as many supports as you want, almost wherever you want, as the light supports don't cause divots, then I just add in some medium supports in strategic locations if the piece is larger (I almost never delete or even move supports in this method)....really take hardly anytime at all, even with multiple items on the build plate. Edit:. I guess I should say, that I do end up deleting some of the really tiny supports the automatic placement likes to put in and either redoing them or saving that spot for pixel edit.