Wow! What a great door prize .... That Biax Power Scraper sure streamlines things.

Thanks for posting this one! Great work Keith!

Great videos, Keith! Very helpful and I really appreciate them. Thanks!

nice and precise work mr keith

Great video Keith video, thanks!

Great video Keith! I love the scraping videos. Patiently waiting for the straightedges to be available

Nice work, Keith. Scraping is really an art. I enjoyed this.

Thanks for the quality content as usual!

Thanks for the video Keith never seen this process before. Very interesting.

Absolutely super as usual. Having a Keith Rucker scraped straight edge would indeed be a treasure to own. I assume you will personally mark it in some way like all good artists.

Thank you sir. That was educational.

Nicely done Keith! ATB, Robin

Looking good

THANK YOU...for sharing.

Some lucky winner will be getting a nice tool. Have fun at the party. Thanks for the video.

Am just setting up to scrape in half a dozen camel backs so I can scrape in my lathe bed. Good quick refresher thanks KR

That is an absolutely fascinating technique! Somehow, despite being interested in machining and other handycrafts all my life--mainly through exposure to steam locomotive restoration and preservation--not to mention growing up in what used to be the heavy industry centre of England I have never seen this done before! The surface pattern it gives is beautiful and very hypnotic to look at. It reminds me a little of pattern-welded steel or (so-called) 'wootz steel' tool blades. Obviously totally different in composition, but the effect on the eye is similar. Were it mine I would be too afraid of spoiling the lovely edge to use it!!!

great video as always keith i am so looking forward to your monarch restoration to be honest i prefer your restoration videos more than any of the others for me they are more informative and enjoyable but in no way am i saying the other videos are lacking even the much older videos are a fantastic point of reference and very informative keep up the great work keith all my best wishes to you and yours

Interesting. I have never seen scraping done. It is not what I expected. I need to watch your other scraping videos. I'm starting to get a little understanding of why and how the process is done. Thanks!

Wow and I thought grinding would of got it to precision flat I did not realise that scraping takes it to a higher level of accuracy. Thank you Keith for your knowledge

Great job Keith! 6 Ten-thousands out to start and probable 2 ten-thousands or better after! Awesome!

A# 1 Video , You Say Not Much Detail , But I Learned More From This Video Than Any Of The Old Ones. I Have Been Watching Since The Table Saw Restoration, Thats When I Saw Adam . My World Blew Up And Now I Watch , Fenner , Mr. Pete , Richard , Don Cosset ,Steve Summers Tom Lipton , Pierre ... All Because Of You , Thank You Sir !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The yellow really helps to see what you did on the video

Keith, thanks for the great vid. I am crossing my fingers and hoping to win your straight edge at the bash, really sorry I won't see you there. Boy! Who knew this would be such a controversial vid;)

Good to see advice is still readily available!! lol

A very nice prize for some lucky attendee.

Even though I really don’t need it, I really want one

Keith I don’t completely understand, at 1 thou couldn’t you use 800, 1000 and so on wet and dry paper to finish it off. Regards Frank

Thank you for this video. I find the subject exciting. I realize this craft - all craft - is rooted in utility but I'm "KZfaq-investigating" the techniques of scraping for the art metals possibilities, their surface decoration value. I think scraped surfaces are beautiful and I'm considering how they might be displayed in future furniture or architectural projects. Would you or any of your viewers care to direct my attention toward scraped non-ferrous work?

Thanks Keith for another informative video. Does ambient temperature effect the flatness?

Don't remember Keith mentioning how long the castings had been aged. But it looks like the grinding relieved some surface tension and the casting bowed a little- wonder if it will hold shape after scraping or continue to move.

The finish is super fine to the eye,however I wonder what it would look like under a magnifier? Is there any way to get a picture that shows the details from the final scraped piece? Just curious as to see what the scraper actually does.

Good to go ..ship it...

Is there any concern for the age of the casting and the accuracy of the scraping for the short term? Can a iron casting be aged faster by repetitive running through heat and cold cycles?

Did you do anything to get the stresses out of the casting, like whack it with a mallet etc? Or was the casting stress relieved? Nice video, cute little straight edge.

Sorry, you might have said it in a past video: what is the stroke rate on the power scraper?

Awesome !! At 6:55, is it paper rag or ?? ( lot of small rag-particles coming with the yellow )

I've done some scraping over the years, and I have a question. When scraping a camel back like this, how do you control the angle between the two surfaces? In other words, if one end of the tool is 45 degrees, how do you know it is 45 degrees at the other end? Is there some form of 3 plate method? I can understand usually an exact angle would not be needed when scraping a machine, but a constant angle on the camel back seems important. Any advice? Another video?

Show it floating on air! A well scraped piece should be able to float on air when you slide at across the surface plate. I learned this the hard way when I ruined a well scraped prism. I set it down, in a sliding motion and it floated right across the plate, and off the other side.

Keith - a question.. Back when I served my apprenticeship as a Millwright in the Pattern Making Shop we all always left castings outside in all weathers to "settle down" as the Foundryman would say. Do you age your castings before working on them. Best regards Mike

Very interesting video. So what's the blade of the scraping tool made from?

Seasoning cast iron for about a year after casting thence machining works best.

I would have thought that the cast iron needs to be aged a bit before going for a precise surface.

I find it easier to scrape back toward you so your not scraping over your chips

It won't affect me, as I can't see myself ever doing any scraping, but could you use an oscillating multi tool as a cheap power scraper? Do you think you could try one sometime and let the viewership know how it compares, or if it can even work, Keith?

It is gratifying to see a Jorgensen handscrew (patented circa 1900) playing a central part in holding the work. It's yet another good application of that venerable tool.

Great stuff. Did I miss the part where you checked the 45 deg. angle between bottom and side?

so it was too flat?

This has turned into a real huff contest amongst the 'experts", it's now all about who can blow the most smoke up the other guys a*s. Arguing the semantics of scraping with other people is useless, it's like playing chess with a pigeon- no matter how good you are at it, the pigeon will just knock the pieces over, sh*t on the board, and strut around like it's victorious. Keith, how you keep from having a drinking problem is beyond me, thanks for all you do.

Couldn't you program at CMC to engrave a pattern like that better accuracy and quicker

Well Keith, I enjoyed your video as always But........ 1) Get rid of the paper towels for applying and use foam rollers to apply your bluing / yellowing. 2) If you want to make a precise tool, your going to have to age and or normalize those Green Castings. 3) You need a master gauge to check your 45 deg's. Just friendly suggestions....... (Wink)

I find sticking your tongue out to your left instead of your right while scraping, you get much better accuracy..... Grteat vid!!

Why would something so small need a camel-back? Wouldn't an I-beam be sufficient?

Wouldn’t it be easier to lap something like this? It’s not a way that needs a oiled surface.

After the scrapping how accurate is it? In the beginning you used a dial gauge to show it was 6 thousands of an inch out, what was it after the scrapping?

Not criticism - observation. It appears that your grinder is bowl shaping or arching (lower in the middle of the grind). Is that really true or just a happenstance of uneven hardness of the castings?

I don't get this process at all. He ground them flat then scraped them? I know nothing about machining but they were already ground flat.

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А мы толкем жженую резину мешаем её с маслом далее промокаем сложенную тряпочку и наносим на плиту!! Вместо краски !! Удобней и цвет на метале лучше видно!

Interesting video, but I don't understand the process. I know nothing about this stuff, but I would have expected the surface grinder to do a better, smoother and straighter surface than the hand gouging. Clearly I'm missing something fundamental.

How many darns are in a flat? Tee Hee

For those wondering why scraping. You cant affordably buy surface plates that big to diamond lap and you can't lap lathe, mill and other large equipment ways and dovetails.

hi at each kieth now hi in the middle, it was only 6 inch why not use the hand scraper?

I completely understand that you are flattening both surfaces, but are you at all concerned about the angle between the surfaces? That's always been a sticking point for me. Is that important at all, and if it is, how do you keep that angle? If it's no big deal, I can live with that. But based on the geometry of the camel back, I assume you want an accurate angle. Thanks in advance for the answer...

I still do not understand. I've posted about this a half dozen times. It takes so much effort to scrape something like this in to tolerance. It takes time, expense, equipment, etc. What does it gain you compared to a well-polished or well-machined surface? You're going to be a few ten-thousandths more accurate. How does that gain you anything when even temperature fluctuations can cause things to increase or decrease in size by more than that?

If you are concerned about scraping it in so perfectly flat, why not use some kind of mechanical assistance to lay down the hash marks? Why use a free-hand method for that? Wouldn't you want the islands of un-impacted-by-hash-marks contact areas to be uniform? If they are not uniform it will wear unevenly over time.

You started being 0.0006" out max across the whole surface after the surface grinding. You probably could've achieved better than that with a slower few last passes giving it time to cool and not distort under the grinding heat, but even so that 0.0006" was only on the right/left edges mostly. You've then spent how many minute (at 16:00 you say about 45 minutes, and that was before you scraped in the side, and did a final scraping on the bottom, so maybe 60-75 minutes??) scraping this surface to a flatter form, and what have you gained? You didn't show us the final movement across the surface with your 10-thousandths indicator. But suppose it was down to 0.0001" ... what surface could you scrape in with a 0.0001" variation better than you could with a 0.0006" variation when you're going to be scraping by hand across a surface? What's to prevent your mishandling of the tool (unintentionally, but simply because you're doing it by hand) to be more than 0.0006" out anyway? I honestly do not understand scraping. So much effort for seemingly so little gain. The only time I could see it being of benefit is if you were doing parts for extreme uses, like jet engines, or Space Shuttle components, etc. For a transmission / engine mating surface, or for something else where you can use a gasket ... what is the point?

This is amazing but I really don't understand why he's using that power tool. It seems like Ultra Overkill and would completely destroy any hopes of having a flat surface. It seems to be digging deep trenches that are multiple thousands of an inch deep, whereas you only want a fraction of a thousanth removed. ????