Well said Greg! Very reasonably priced I agree and low dust and good stopping you can’t go wrong 💪

They are awesome you’ll love ‘em!

Yeah these are silent! Heard the z36 is better for heavy vehicles and towing too!

Yeah these Powerstop pads are a game changer though! I the ceramics on my viper and Dakota still make a ton of dust compared to these!

Almost! 💪🤘

You’ll love em! Super happy with it

@@BoostedMotorsports I’m just glad it’ll keep the gloss black 20x12s cleaner than oem junk

Heck yeah!

Thanks Darren. I’ll be posting an update soon. It’s been an interesting couple weeks…

Yeah these z36 are definitely a good choice! I love them so far! I want to swap my rear pads!

🤘🤘🤘

Thanks man!

@@BoostedMotorsports I hope you had a good holiday brother have you made a choice on the house yet

The SR-As caught my attention too. I thought I was doing good with them for a while. But I came back from a vacation, just the wife and I in the truck, and I couldn’t keep pressure in my front passenger tire. I had multiple bands break in the tread and I had a bulge worn to the bands. Tired only had 25k on them. Put a set of Michelins on it and I’ll never run Goodyear again.

@@Blb573 yeah I won’t touch Goodyears anymore. I’ve got about 20k on some Nitto Terra Grapplers and they don’t even show signs of wear. The haul good too.

Yup the Brembo calipers on the viper and Dakota have dual bleeders 🤘

@@BoostedMotorsports I have never done them before I have always had single bleeders on all my calipers. I'll have to figure out what sequence to bleed them in 😂😂😂

I’ll be posting an update soon!

I don’t. A good solid rotor is fine for me. It’s not a race car lol

Who said it was all highway? Lots of city stop and go on these miles of the course of 2 weeks

Eco diesel 💪

That’s awesome they are working for you too 💪

Yeah it’s way better than regular pads hands down!

How did you make out with those pads? I have set in cart but looking at reviews lol.

@@66cotter they work fine. So far no dust. No noises. Xar stops. Cant really say anything bad about them

@@qpwoeiruty850 awesome thanks

Yes they do warp, it's very normal and common, unless you drive like a grandma, in that case they wont wrap.

@@514aam obviously you haven’t put a dial indicator on any as i have many many times when customers complained about brake pulsation. Extremely few were warped more than a couple thousandths! Rear rotors on the other hand do warp a little but generally won’t feel that in the brake pedal or feel the car shimmy. Only about 30% of the braking power comes from the rear anyway. I’ve turned plenty of rotors that makes on think they are warped due to uneven cuts around the perimeter but when you measure its the same depth of cut on the same degree all the way around. So i started measuring at the hub only to find it wasn’t perfectly centered on the brake lathe. After doing a much better job cleaning the rust off the hub i found extremely few ventilated rotors had any warp at all!

I worked at a shop for a few years and has plenty of cars that had unacceptable runout on them with a caliper measuring the rotors so yes they do warp lol

@@MineZilla123 I’m always amazed at people. Fact! All calipers float for a reason! They float because even when a car or motorcycle is brand new there is a certain amount of what you call runout. The fact is if you measure both sides of the rotor the amount of runout is exactly the same on both sides. Meaning the rotor is in fact not warped at all. Even if the rotor was warped say .020 the float in the caliper compensates for it hence why they float. Next time you think a rotor is warped try measuring with a dial indicator on both sides at the same time. You will find out the vast majority of the time the rotor is NOT the same thickness around the perimeter. Warped rotors do not cause brake pulsation which is what people complain about and think the rotors are warped when in fact they are not. The most common reason for pulsation is varying hardness of the rotor due to work hardening of the cast iron in the rotor and also differential hardiness from pads being mostly metallic. Very rarely are vented rotors warped!

@@grizmanmyers1944 definitely had runout with a dial indicator on both sides be different. And not only that, when you cut them you can Cleary see the the high low spots on either side where they would need a few passes to get to finely cut straight, and we had a brand new rotor cutting machine setup with proper adapters and used the dial indicator to setup straight to make sure. Yes good quality rotors don't warp hardly at all. But not all rotors are good quality. I worked at a chrysler, dodge, jeep dealership. And the oem fiat/chrysler rotors they put on jeep renegades are horrible, never seen so many rotors warp or get grooved up. Few other models I've seen it happen to as well. Yes you are right that most good vented rotors won't warp, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen once in a while. And yes, I am well aware you have to make sure the hub is clean off rust and has no runout, as like you said most of the time it's not actually a warped rotor but buildup of rust or runout in the hub that's actually causing the rotor to appear like it has runout. So that's not what I mean. I have used a dial indicator to properly measure both sides. Like I said, just because it doesn't happen commonly doesn't mean it's impossible to happen. And not all rotors are vented, lots of rear rotors are not, or if you go with very cheap Chinese crap rotors. Moral is buy quality parts and you won't have to worry 😉