I have used PP on normal PEI with a brim with no problem, but the extruder was fighting with the filament, and more than ones, I have to dismantled the extruder. Thanks for sharing this new bed-solution :-)

I just use packaging tape for adhesion. It sticks very well and it’s easy to clean.

Thanks for your little demo. PP is going to be massive in 3D printing once they iron out obvious but fairly simple issues to overcome. Because there is no shortage of PP materials already and it's flexible, durable, thermal, water resistant, recyclable and has far more applications in useful industries like food, medical, automotive and so on. Too many god damn unicorn lover channels and virtually no channels exploring useful development & applications for 3D PP. Do more PP prints please!

I've used FormFutura PP on my CR-10 and didn't find it challenging to print. The only thing I did was take ordinary PP packing tape and taped it onto my glass bed where the print would be. Removing the packing tape later is easy. When the bed is heated it will peel off easily and any residue can be cleaned up with alcohol. It's less messy than cleaning up glue stick. I think it's an urban legend that PP is hard to print.

Good observations. I have a roll of 150mm wide Kapton tape I bought when I got my printer. I haven’t used it because each roll of my Overture filaments came with a print sheet that works extremely well, but it seems like the Kapton tape could be a good protective layer between the print bed and the adhesive for the PP print sheet. Disappointing that they didn’t send you enough material to do your normal test procedures given that they must be familiar with them since they contacted you.

The soft sticky sheet seems an interesting idea, but using it with small object footprints looks like it's asking for trouble

Maybe use the sticker on a prong steel sheet (on that only has PEI on one side, then use the PP Sheet on the other side. :) That way you can put it in the center. :)

I use PP Filament from Recreus, they send liquid primer for the heating bed with the filament.

PP prints best on double sided carpet tape (e.g. I most usually use white TESA 0.15mm two sided sticky tape - yellow cover, white tape). You remove carpet tape after print and put on the new one, since tape is super cheap it's ideal surface for printing PP and HDPE (you can print other materials on it too but no need if you have printbite or pei or ... for other materials) ... but problem with PP and HDPE is that they warp much more than ABS or even Nylon so you really need to have enclosure (I print it in heated enclosure at 80C) and they love to be printed slowly, I print between 12 and 20mm/sec, never faster if I want to high quality parts... I personally use 3mm filament (easy to get locally) and 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle but 0.4mm nozzle works ok (much more turbulence), below 0.4mm I would not suggest... especially when you go slow, 12mm/sec takes ages to print so you want big thick layers so your print finishes during your life time :D

Those part cooling ducts should be pointing at filament coming from nozzle ? Based on the camera angle I see it's cooling the nozzle instead.

I ordered a 1.5 mm thick sheet of PP directly from a plastics company here in the uk to try and use as a build plate to see if it makes printing PP easier without bothering with tape or proprietary bed adhesives

So the main issue with PP is if you are printing larger surface area parts that are somewhat thick. Corners tend to pull up, and if the adhesion is poor, the part will warp. I've had mild success on various print surfaces. However, it looks like the instructions of the test kit were not followed: clipping it to the bed would not work very well as shown in the video. PPPrint is working on doing a permanently bonded print surface to steel sheets which would eliminate this issue. I think the first layer was not dialed in here so it's not a fair showing of whether this solution works. Packing tape works, but it is appealing to have a fuss free surface to print on without messing with tape etc. Thanks for showing the kit and materials though.

I've been meaning to use PP as an alternative to tpu for designs needing flexible components on otherwise hard prints as my X1Cs AMS doesn't do flexibles. I'd be curious to see you do a video on this idea/how well it works and am also curious if you've heard of this printer and what you think of it.

I thought the go-to for FDM PP was PP packing tape?