Thank you for an interesting and helpful video. I picked up many good tips here. Respectfully - for safety reasons, please don't flick your soldering iron to get rid of the excess molten solder.

Very interesting using the 50/50 for the first pass. I've used 50/50 to fill in gaps before, and I've heard of people using it on the reverse sides only, but I've never seen anyone use it the way you have. Can't wait to give it a try. BTW, I also use the Hakko 601 and I can't imagine using anything else. After plugging it in, it is hot enough to solder before you can even lift it up to use it. The heat adjustment on it makes it very useful, too.

Hi Ann, We using a Hakko 456 which is not available any more. We have been very happy with Hakko's newest iron the 601 which is temperature controlled right on the handle of the iron, allowing for quick and easy temperature changes for any soldering project. see the iron on our site here www.prairiestainedglass.ca/shop/tools/hakko-fx-601/

Glad you found the video useful. We are working on some new videos so stay tuned......

Thanks for your comment. I try to make things as straight forward as possible.

Thanks so much for this and your other videos they are very helpfull. :-)

I'm re-soldering my first Tiffany lamp after a long break (didn't do so well the first time around). Any tips in particular I should know to make it a little easier?

Sorry for taking so long to respond- life has been hectic. I am not sure what you mean by resoldering. If you have left the project for a while you may have to steel wool the foil or solder before you begin again. Generally it doesn't take much to remove any oxidization. If it hasn't been too long then the flux will probably be all you need.

What iron you are using (Mfr & wattage)? If on a rheostat (didn't see one in the video), what # is it set at? Thank you!

Mao I ask what kind of board do you use thank you

Your audio needs improvement.