Yep, sure is a tricky job! With this style intake manifold, it's not too bad. With the earlier style intake manifold that sweeps downward instead of up like this one, it's even worse😅 I believe it's OBD1 or Ford's version of it. I have a code reader for this particular model Ford that plugs into the port and puts it into self test mode where it essentially bridges the terminals internally. I usually use that instead of the jumper to bridge the terminals, but thought I'd show the more 'budget friendly' way because the code readers for these cars are pricey, but worth every cent😅 Will check out the Garage 4AGE channel, that info could be quite handy, cheers for the suggestion!👍🏻

Hey bro, I haven't really got too far into sorting out the 'boost mapping' from scratch. On my EF turbo, I started with a base tune from T.I Performance and tweaked that to suit. I might try figure that one out when i get back into working on my EF turbo and see if i can put a video together👍🏻

Thanks bro! Good stuff on getting the cam swap sorted👍🏻 Hard to say exactly what will be required in the tune as some cars and setups seem to react differently. I can definitely say it will need majority of the fuel map trimmed, especially around idle and light throttle/cruise conditions - mine overfuelled heavily in these areas, yet seemed to lean out around 5000rpm and upwards. I found i could add a few more degrees of timing in the low to mid rpm ranges of the spark map to help with the low down torque loss due to the higher powerband of the cam. Other than that, idle rpm can be adjusted up a little in the tune to help stabilize the idle, but need to be careful here as mine started to rev hang when I went up to around 1000rpm idle speed.

It's definitely still driveable on the stock stall, so I'd say it's not 100% necessary, although it would help get the engine into it's powerband quicker. You can sure feel the loss of torque under 3000rpm, feels very flat until it gets into it's sweet spot from then onwards though. I'm yet to complete the tune, but I'm sure the low end torque could be improved a lot just by tweaking the ignition timing. Even better if you fit an adjustable cam gear and dial in a couple degrees of advance to bring the powerband on earlier. If going manual though, I'd leave the stall alone and just put that $$ towards a good clutch. In terms of braking, it doesn't feel too bad, but I haven't driven it all too much since the cam went in. Requires a little more pedal effort slowing down to around idle/low revs, but that might be more noticeable due to the higher idle speed. Obviously, E-series brakes are as useless as they come so i might look into some form of vacuum canister or pump if it becomes a problem. Hope that helps!