It’s actually LVLP. The low velocity is key to using a smaller volume compressor with much less overspray. It’s an Aeropro A610. Amazing gun built specifically for the DIY home markets.

Ha! Great minds think alike! I was looking at standard automotive painting stands but they were $60+ each. The bike parts are considerably lighter and this rack was $15. Folds up and hides away nicely too.

Thanks!! Still trying to figure out the new gun. For LVLP it still sprays a lot of volume of paint so I have to keep experimenting. I stole your paint booth idea if you haven’t figured that out yet!!!

@@KensWorldRestorations Painting (and bodywork in general) is a real skill. I would also like to be better at it. For example on the RD and FZ I repainted I am not 100% happy with the result of the final clear coat. Orange peel on some spots and sort of dry rough surface on other sports. The art is indeed to have a nice flowed coat without the runs. I guess practicing a lot will improve it. I hope the boot will work well for you.

On flexible plastic use 2K urethane primer. For finishing colours, just use a good quality 2K single stage gloss paint. Its adhesion is incredible and it's very flexible - especially today's modern paint chemistries. Single stage is still 2K (you mix the paint with a hardener/activator and reduce it as required) and that way you don't have to do it as a base/clear. The single stage has the clear built in - that's what I'd do for dirt bike plastics. It'll look great and last for years and easy to repair if it does chip.

@@KensWorldRestorations Cool, good tip. I had to go look up what "2K urethane primer" is. Looks like it's some type of super tough, 2-part mixable epoxy type primer. What crazy stuff. Must be insanely durable, like painting a layer of flexible epoxy over your project. There are a ton of brands on Amazon for 2K primer. Do you have a brand of it that you prefer? Maybe Eastwood? Also, just FYI in case you're curious, the type of plastic on my dirt bike looks and feels to me like regular nylon, just like a Home Depot plastic 5 gallon bucket (but dyed in Kawasaki green). The cherry on top of this project of mine is if I could use that 2K primer and then paint it with this killer metallic lime green that Kawasaki uses on some of their sportbikes. It's an unbelievably beautiful type of paint, but I don't know if it's flexible or durable enough to use on a plastic dirt bike fender.

@@r0ckworthy So there are base chemistries for automotive paint and primers - there are lacquers, enamels, urethanes and epoxies. Today, the most popular are epoxy & urethane paint. They both require an activator or hardener in order to cure - they really don’t dry by air but airflow and heat speeds up the curing process. Urethane and epoxy are two different chemistries but both are very durable and in some cases, flexible. Your plastic fenders are injection molded that gives a gloss finish. You’ll have to sand/scuff the shine off as well as remove any signs of oxidation from the sun. Once you get the parts completely clean and dull (use 220 to 400 and then some scotchbright) then clean with a solvent based cleaner before using 2K urethane primer. Once the primer flashes off (in about 15 minutes) then you’ll paint the 2K urethane, single stage gloss colour of your liking. If you end up going with a solid color, then you can definitely go single stage. If you want to use a Kawasaki metallic, it might end up being available only in base/clear. You have to make sure you sand the parts well to get rid of all the gloss or the primer and paint will flake off. I don’t have any preferences for brands but I’ve heard great things about Eastwood.

@@KensWorldRestorations EXCELLENT information, thank you!