Replacing Swing Arm Bearings | FZR1000 Restoration

Replacing Swing Arm Bearings | FZR1000 Restoration - EP5

Рет қаралды 640

5 ай бұрын

A lot of work went into this even if it doesn't look like much.
The bike is finally going back together starting with the large rubber grommets (wiring, hoses), brackets & finally the swing arm and steering.
I was able to source bearings from two places: Midland Bearings and Bolton Engineering Products - both in the UK. Everything else (motorcycle shops/eBay/CMSNL) is stoooopid expensive. I found one vendor who was asking over $40 USD just for the spherical bearing alone - I paid $7. It pays dividends when you do a little research.
I will replace the original shock but for now, it's been cleaned and reinstalled so I can at least get the relay/swing arm linkage sorted out.
Bolton Engineering UK (Bearings) Part Numbers below. The swing arm and relay bearings are all needle roller drawn cup type except for the spherical bearing.
GE12FW DUN x 1 (Top Relay Spherical Bearing attaches to bottom of shock)
TA2030Z-IKO x 1 (Front Relay Needle Bearing) - substituted 30mm for 35 mm
TA1725Z-IKO x 4 (Small/Lower Swing Arm & Relay Bearings)
TA2530Z-IKO x 2 (Main Swing Arm Bearings)
bepltd.com/collections/needle...
bepltd.com/collections/spheri...
Custom made vinyl graphics courtesy of me & moto-sticker. (moto-sticker.com). Now available as a set on his website.

Пікірлер: 21

@ChrisSofos 5 ай бұрын

Ken, this is a fantastic work you put in this bike!!! I love the fact that you do EVERYTHING properly, with no rush, and I'm certain the result is going to be an IMMACULATE motorcycle that every collector is going to envy! Thanks for sharing all the info with us!! Keep up the great work you do!

@KensWorldRestorations 5 ай бұрын

Thanks Chris!! The engine will be done soon and I will leaning HEAVILY on your videos to guide me through the top end work.

@tomsworkshopprojects 4 ай бұрын

It’s looking amazing Ken, I loved getting that feeling recently when you start seeing a clean shiny frame, subframe and swingarm coming together. So true that those 20 mins of assembly are the result of days worth of cleaning and preparing, which makes them all the more satisfying.

@KensWorldRestorations 4 ай бұрын

You know it!!

@yarekk 5 ай бұрын

I’m getting more excited about this bike with every new video. It’s gonna look amazing!!! Great craftsmanship Ken!!!

@KensWorldRestorations 5 ай бұрын

Thank you so much my friend!! I can't wait to see you riding this thing through the canyons of NORCAL!!!

@yarekk 4 ай бұрын

That will be an honor!

@jacobkristensen1095 4 ай бұрын

Recently I bought a 1989 FZR1000 with 93000 km on the clock. Visually its in great condition, and it runs well, but its a little thirsty for oil so far. Its not my primary bike, more for using when my other one is in the shed... This being said, Im enjoying your videos, and im looking forward to the engine part 8-) Just a great bike.

@KensWorldRestorations 4 ай бұрын

I absolutely LOVE the look of the 1989! The changes to the frame, fuel tank and swing arm really added to the look. For 93,000kms, that's about time for a look at the top end. The valve shims are of the new size (7.48mm) so you should have no problem sourcing parts for the top end. Yambits sells a full engine rebuild gasket kit that includes valve stem seals. Your piston rings are different too and probably easier to source and with that mileage on it, I'd suspect that it could use new rings and a hone to bring it back to feeling like new again and getting that oil consumption under control. I've got an update video coming soon and then after all of that, I'll probably start cracking on the engine..just top end work but I think just what you need to see. Also, check out JH-Tech (www.youtube.com/@jh-tech5546). He's done a number of engine rebuilds for this type of engine.

@Fireballspc 5 ай бұрын

Hello friend Kensworld... Great video and this step of assembling this chassis (frame) with the rear Swing arm Looking superficially, we imagine that there are not so many components, each with a specific function for a good result and efficiency. I'm waiting for the next phase. Thanks

@rgmax6205 5 ай бұрын

I’m very impressed with the work you’ve accomplished on this frame. It’s turned out fantastic. Not much information on how to restore these types of aluminum frames. Looking forward to your next videos, especially related to the bodywork.

@KensWorldRestorations 5 ай бұрын

Thanks so much!! Your work is outstanding so that's a huge vote of confidence for me! I think if I were to go full concourse, I would have found a vapour blasting service at any cost and then had it properly anodized (clear) but the 2K clear looks good and almost OEM. I've smudged it a whole lot and the fingerprints all come off with a bit of glass cleaner so it seems to be working so far.

@rgmax6205 5 ай бұрын

For the few small anodized parts on the bikes I’ve done, I basically used the same method as you. Removed the anodizing, recreated the original brushed finish and then clear coat. Re-anodizing an entire frame is something else entirely, that could get tricky.

@KensWorldRestorations 5 ай бұрын

@@rgmax6205 I'm hoping it holds up...I know I still want to drive this bike when it's done but like the Virago, it will be a fair-weather machine. With a bit of luck and care, I hope it works out. Like you mentioned, there's not a lot of subject matter out there to really get a good idea of how this will hold up over time.

@jh-tech5546 4 ай бұрын

Looking great! The spherical bearing on my FZ should also be replaced. I think it might be the same as the one on your FZR. Thanks for sharing that info!

@KensWorldRestorations 4 ай бұрын

If you replaced your OEM shock, you can probably do away with the spherical bearing and use the same needle-roller cage type bearings in the rest of the relay. I'm pretty sure after looking at this (and all the newer style shocks) that the only reason why a spherical bearing was used is because the OEM shock rotates under compression (there's no radial isolation between the spring and the mounts). I could be wrong but it's what I'm getting by comparing the old style shocks/bearing with the newer style. You'd need to find a proper sized needle bearing and machine a pin and bolt.

@jh-tech5546 4 ай бұрын

@@KensWorldRestorations OK I did not think about that. Thanks for the tip

@jh-tech5546 4 ай бұрын

Another question about the Deox-c process you used. Did you re-plate the parts after it? I would think it strips all the existing zinc plating. Leaving it to blank steel that will rust. Or was the time in the solution short to just clean it up? I have never used Deox-C but used citric acid to remove the old plating. That also turns yellow.

@KensWorldRestorations 4 ай бұрын

@@jh-tech5546 The Deox-C didn't seem to take off any plating. It looks like nickel plating to me. It went straight after the rust. There were a few spots where the corrosion was bad enough that it took the plating off but it was only on the swing arm bolt (that goes in the pivot shaft. I greased it up and will leave it as is. Everything else I'll keep an eye on it. It's really dry here and it will be a "fair weather" bike so I'll keep you posted.

@jh-tech5546 4 ай бұрын

@@KensWorldRestorations I have done some test on some of the YZF bolts and brackets. When only soaked for 5 or 10 minutes in a citric acid concentration it indeed cleans the bolts and removes lots of dirt and corrosion. I think it is also probably eating on the plating but since the time is short it will be ok. I think I am going to try the DEOX-C. it might be a better product. I attempted to give the bolts a light clear coat to protect them... Will try that in the future. Badly corroded bolts will not be savable I guess. Thanks for the tip!