awesome tool mate, I'd love to have one of those.

you make what works for you if you enjoy making it and it works as it is supposed to then, anyone complaining is forgetting the first rule it's not their problem. By the way your finished product looked very well made and finished very impressed.

You are a true artist and a pro. Don't listen to youtube nincompoops. Thanks for sharing. I'll build one.

Thank you Sir for your knowledge & video I do appreciate your efforts

You look to be of an age where we did things simply, yet... You've developed an unnecessarily complicated tool for a simple task. The simplest ways are best...What we did was interpose a (straight) steel rule between the tool tip and the workpiece (I'd use a straight plastic rule, now, carbides tending to be brittle by comparison with HSS, or interpose a plastic pad between my hard steel rule and the tool tip), having got the tool up to something approximating the lathe spindle centreline. the rule then lies at a tangent to the workpiece. If the rule is vertical, the tool is at centre height. If the rule top is nearer the operator, the tool's below centre, and vice versa... Imagine... You're on a big Swift (or other) lathe, with an 8 foot diameter cast iron cylinder mounted in it... you have no means of getting to the tailstock after a tool swap or regrind... even if there's no workpiece in place, do you want to move the toolpost 4 feet to get a tool on centre? No, you get a rule out of your box (or top pocket) and interpose it between tool tip and workpiece, when it's loaded... Works with LH, RH, and upside down tools Not criticism, by the way, merely an observation... The old Cincinnati tool and cutter grinders came with a centre height setting tool as standard equipment, used for setting cutter teeth on centre before grinding, and, they could be used to set a tooth on centre whether it was pointing up or down, and to set the wheelhead spindle centreline relative to the workhead or centres... Same simple tool... Something similar or even simpler could be used on a little lathe like yours...

Thank you. I am glad you appreciate it for what it was. I think the thing that is often missed is that I like to use processes like anodising and CNC engraving. The tool was just a demonstration of how you can use those processes in other applications. Regards, Mark

I totally agree!

That's how we used to do it at school. However, once you spin the tool post you lose your reference on the DRO. I wish I had one of those fancy schmancy multifix tool holders but an old cheapskate like me finds them a bit too pricey. Regards, Mark

How we have done it at work: take an aluminium-sheet. Put it on the cross-slide. Make a mark with the tailstock centre. Saw on the mark and make the sheet to look as a "Z". There is the correct hight. We have made them from aluminium, made one last thursday (took about five minutes). With a good bandsaw one could make it in Aisi316 to last"forever". The inserts slowly destroys the aluminium edge so be prepared to make a new every 15-20 years 🤭🤣...

This also only works if your center is actually on center. All kinds of reasons why that might be out.

Me too, since it’s already there . 😊

Spinning tbe tool around assumes 2 things, which can be incorrect: A) the toolpost is vertical, hence doesn"t change height B) the tailstock is vertically centered.

I thought he was just going to show us a complicated version of the old fancy metal ruler method.

Thank you. A lot of people misunderstood the purpose of this tool and the reasons I had for making it. There are simpler ways of setting lathe tools to correct height but I wanted to demonstrate some procedures and processes that can be carried out in the home workshop and the tool was a good way of doing it. However I made two. One was given away as a gift and I keep the other one next to my lathe. I use it often and it just works. I am glad you appreciated the content for what it was. Regards, Mark

Thinking about this a bit and I don't even think the top and bottom surfaces need to be parallel since they are not really used at the same time, each level is really only referenced to the adjustment screw (which should be perpendicular to the level). Since each side is calibrated only between a single level and the adjusting screw for that side being parallel to the opposite side it nice, and pretty, but not a requirement. Please correct me if I am wrong. I love this project and the presentation you made of it.

Thanks for that. I enjoyed making that tool and although it's a bit over the top, I still like to use the processes that enhance the finished product. I guess it's a case of being able to justify the expense of purchasing tools and materials. If you don't use them regularly, it's a bit of a waste.

Thanks. A small scrap of nylon or PTFE works well too. We are actually in New Zealand now. Up in Whangarei. Shame about the weather. Regards, Mark

Keep doing what works for you! 😁 Regards, Mark

I already have a small tool setter made from injection moulded plastic. It looks like something that would be given away on a trade stand or machinery show. It works and it's surprisingly accurate but you have to hold it with one hand while setting the tool height. I guess what I made was unnecessarily complex but it was a nice thing to make and to give away as a gift. Regards, Mark

Don't be put off by my version of this tool. It doesn't need to be much more than a 3D printed body with a self tapping screw for calibration. A single row ball bearing would be sufficient to allow it to rotate freely. As many people point out, I have over done the detail in this build. My main objective was to make a nice tool to give away to a viewer and I also wanted to showcase some metal finishing techniques that others may not have tried. Regards, Mark

Thanks and I am glad you were able to make a 3D printed version. I copped a lot of criticism for making a tool that appeared to be over done and out of reach for a lot of viewers. My intention was to make something nice to give away as a gift but I always reasoned that you could make a serviceable version from CNC machined plastic or even cut out of some plastic stock on the bandsaw. The key is to have a way of calibrating the tool. I use mine a lot and it just works and there's little guesswork involved. Regards, Mark

Gee, thanks Gary. I wouldn't put myself in the "larger" category but it's nice that you deem me worthy. I feel guilty sometimes watching the Tom Lipton's and Stefan Gotteswinter''s of this world and not commenting for the same reason. When are we going to do a sticker swap? Regards, Mark

Thanks Bob. I must say it has taken a lot of experimentation to get repeatable results with the home anodising. As you have found, the finish is very durable. What I only found out recently was that the PH of the dye can vary quite a lot and if it is too alkaline, it won't take very well or at all. I purchased a digital PH meter and found that some dyes were PH 9! A few drops of hydrochloric acid got it down again though. There's always more to learn.... Regards, Mark

@@Preso58 thanks for that! Highly useful tip. AND, at the moment, 36% Hydrochloric acid is perfectly legal in the UK so a simple PH meter can solve that problem for me too hopefully, although using Sodium Bisulphate may require a different PH or not even be bothered! We shall see! 👍👍👍

Thanks mate. Praise from you means a lot to me. Regards, Mark

I like to live dangerously. I'm a rebel! Regards, Mark

Thank you. I appreciate that you saw the video for what it was. I did want to showcase some techniques and processes that I use regularly and that maybe some people haven't had the chance to try yet. It's all about sharing. Regards, Mark

@Preso58 Hi Mark I've got an old Aussie made Advance Lathe which I've tinkered with over the years. It's a small model makers lathe, but I've recently picked up an old Harrison 13x40 and planning to do more substantial projects. Channels like yours provide a lot of common-sense instruction. Take me back to my days at tech in Ballarat back in the 70s. I'm now interested in Anodising aluminium after watching your work. Thanks again.

Glad you enjoyed it! Regards, Mark

Thank you. I regularly get comments stating that the tool is overcomplicated, too hard to make and not as simple as say, trapping a scale between the tool tip and the workpiece. I know all of this and the video was never meant to be a "simple" solution. It was more about how to carry out some processes that will make your projects look more professional and, as it happens, I use the tool regularly and I get accurate results with it. I am glad you found the video instructional. At the end of the day, that is what I want to achieve. Again, thanks. Regards, Mark

I know it's a bit over the top but I wanted to make something nice to give away to a viewer when I get to 30K subscribers. Regards, Mark

@@Preso58 ...so, I am too early 🙂. I hope the lucky subscriber can appreciate it.

Thanks. The prototype had only one bearing but the body of the tool wobbled about like a drunken sailor. Also, I cheaped out and bought Chinese skate bearings. Bad idea! I originally laughed when I heard that saying, "buy once, cry once". Now I understand what it means. Regards, Mark

Why didn't I think of that? Since I finished the two tools and the video I have not actually used them. One is to be kept unused for the give away but the other is sitting by the lathe waiting until I return home. We are actually in New Zealand at the moment and we left just after the tools were finished. The design I came up with is a bit like the Edge Precision lathe tool setters. However, as far as I know they don't make one that will do both regular tools and inverted tools. Regards, Mark

I like it. Unfortunately a lot of people thought it was over done and too complex but it doesn't have to be anodised and it doesn't even need to be made of metal. Acetal or acrylic would be fine for the body. It could even be 3D printed. Regards, Mark

That absolutely works and I have used it myself but I wanted to make something nice to give away as a prize. I will be doing an announcement with details of the give away soon. Regards, Mark

Exactly the method I use, accurate enough for my hobby stuff

Normal service will be resumed in the next video. I promise. Regards, Mark

Thanks for that. However I did get some feedback to say that I should have narrated the build. That is what I would normally do but this video would have gone on way to long if I started explaining every step, Regards, Mark

I agree that such a tool can be used and it's a lot less complex to make. I would encourage everyone to use the method that works for you. Regards, Mark

I'm glad you like it. I procrastinated for ages trying to work out what colour to use. Regards, Mark

Thanks, normally I would explain as I go but all that got edited out when I realised that I was working to a 30 minute video length. Thanks for watching to the end. Regards, Mark

And didn't I have fun trying to get those little bits of copper into those holes! Poor eyesight and shaking hands can be a "challenge". Regards, Mark

The job's not done until you make it look pretty. Regards, Mark

Thanks, but I must say it has taken a long time to get consistent results. I only found out recently that you need to check the PH of the dye. If it's too alkaline, it won't work well, or at all. Also, if you don't rinse all the electrolyte off the part, you will get bare patches where the dye won't penetrate. Regards, Mark

Thanks John. Not quite there yet but getting close. I wonder if KZfaq will send me a cardboard play button? Regards, Mark

Yes, that works well and I do use that method at times. Regards, Mark

We don't have nightingales here in Australia. It might have been a butcher bird or a magpie though. The butcher bird has a beautiful song. Unlike the sulphur crested cockatoos which are just raucous and screechy! Regards, Mark

I know. Gross, isn't it. Strangely enough, the accident that caused such a blemish on my beautiful fingers was fairly underwhelming. It didn't hurt at the time but the next day it was kicking butt. Regards, Mark

I too am a fan of Cutting Edge Engineering. What he does is scary and spectacular at the same time. Watching him parting off a 200mm chunk of high strength steel on power feed is "exciting". Regards, Mark

Thanks. Sometimes you get lucky. Regards, Mark

That absolutely works. Still, I like making tools and I have fun with the anodising and the engraving. Regards, Mark

@@Preso58 nothing wrong with making a tool to make things easier. The ruler method does work but it's not as easy or convenient. And I've dropped my scale in the chip tray enough for one lifetime 🤣

Thanks for that. It's probably way overdone but it sure does look pretty. Regards, Mark

Thanks. The tool design was probably a bit over the top but the main purpose of the video was to show how to carry out some of the finishing processes and machining steps that can be carried out in the home workshop. Regards, Mark

The scale trick is how I was taught as well… but this way is definitely better on the purple alone lol

My version was based on the Edge Technology design but it does have the capability to set inverted tools as well as conventional tools. The Edge Technology version is over $100 Australian so it's not exactly cheap (here). Regards, Mark

@NitroRustlerDriver there not a chance in hell, that using ANY tool with all those machined mating surfaces, with their potential for error, is "more precise" than simple geometry and physics....

I have a gauge block and it is configured for both regular and inverted tools. However it is very sensitive to having swarf trapped underneath it. If everything is clean and clear it does a good job. Edge Technology make a tool very similar to the one featured in this video so there must be a market for this type that uses a bubble level. That is what gave me the idea to try out this tool. A lot of people who don't watch the whole video think that I am advocating this as the only or best solution. This is not the case. I wanted to make a nice tool to give away as a subscriber gift and I also wanted to showcase some processes that can be carried out in the home workshop like anodising and drag engraving. Having said that, I use this tool often and it works well. Yes it takes a bit more work to manufacture it but you don't need to go to as much trouble as I did. It could be made of wood or plastic and as long as you build in some means of calibration it will be accurate. Regards, Mark

Paul, Edge Technology make one similar but where I live they are very expensive. Regards, Mark

Thanks. I really should get some of those little carbide boring bars. I have seen Joe Pi using them and I get very jealous. I have about 8 different colours of anodisng dye but that violet colour is my favourite. I only found out recently that the PH of the dye is really important. I bought myself a PH meter and found out that half my dyes were way to alkaline. A few drops of hydrochloric acid gets them back into range and the parts colour up nicely. Regards, Mark

@@Preso58 pH of the dye is interesting, I must have a check of this blue dye to see what it's acidity is. The Simtek tools are excellent although I think it's possible to grind them from scratch using a Deckel or similar. I made my own holders and the little boring bars last ages unless you do something brutal. Like knocking the carriage handwheel...

Thanks. I think someone must have posted a link to this video on a forum somewhere and it has gained a lot of views very quickly. Typically, people tend to just scroll through it without paying attention to the summary at the end. I am glad you appreciated what I was trying to achieve. Regards, Mark

Thanks. Let's hope the weather improves. Regards, Mark

I have a list just like that. Regards, Mark

That's great. You should use whatever system you trust and what suits the style of work you do. Regards, Mark