Hi Mark, very cool having you watching my take on your design. Thank you so much for sharing your many attempts to get a cut off tool that performs well and then share the plans with everybody!

@@nbrworks Any chance you guys would make these for others ? I don't have a mill, or even 10% of the tools you guys do.

Good explanation and, having used a spring parting off holder I can see that you are correct. Also, the amount of spring seems uncritical as the tool will always flex just enough to unload it then feed in again. This seems to be the cause of the initial chatter one hears on first engaging the cut, until it settles at some equilibrium.

Thanks for the really clear explanation of why this works! The idea of turning a weakness in a system into an advantage for a task is so often counterintuitive that it isn’t even considered.

I never figured why the inverted parting tool trick was always reportedly so successful - great explanation, thank you!

Can't wait to try this.Thank you!

I'm sorry to have to tell you, that the saddle doesn't have provisions to prevent lifting off the front. But it does have a clamp to hold the read down tight. So running the lathe in reverse reduces the rigidity. The only reason why this might help is because usually the rear of the cross slide is worn out less. -> repair your lathe!

I thought you would like it! 😅

Even a hacksaw used in its creation!

Hi Brandon! Nice to see you here. That broken tap...! I was extra cautious cleaning the chips and adding fluid. I was feeling the gummyness and taking things slowly... and then it broke with just a couple of threads to go! I went through the roof very fast 😄 but hey, at least I learned how to remove it. Can't wait to see your take on this!

@@nbrworks I know the feeling so well!! I need to increase my carbide mill/drill collection just so I can be prepared when that happens to me 😅 You saved that masterfully

The first time I tried it I was very conservative and cautious (I was afraid it would break). Imagine my surprise to see it cutting steel like it was nothing. I was very excited that day!!

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks!

Ah! Know how that feels! Glad to help making that list grow 😅

Did you check if your blade is square to the work? Or if the tip is ground square to the blade or if it's ground slightly towards the chuck or tailstock? Also, how are you holding the blade and what size of blade are you using? I'm asking this because I can imagine my 'not so tall' blade flexing if it didn't have good support and if it wasn't square to the work. Maybe that's causing it to dish? Just a thought. I decided to support/hold my blade with 4 screws from the bottom because I was afraid the washer might let the blade slip (it also allowed me to better support the 2 blades).

Thanks for subscribing and the big compliment. Inheritance Machining is in a league of its own, it's really impressive what Brandon and Paige are achieving. Can't imagine the hours and hard work! All the success is well deserved. This video is doing well, but the best outcome of this has to be having more than 100 comments and not a single one (so far) of 'bad taste'. I thought this tool could raise some controversy but I'm gobsmacked seeing people talking to each other so respectfully about why it works and other technical aspects. Warms my heart. My backstory... maybe one day ;) Thank you

Thanks, glad you like it!

Thanks and welcome! Glad you liked the video and the comments section 😅

Thanks Michel!

No problem, glad you found it useful!

Thanks! Nice to see you coming back!

Computers... can't live with them, can't live without them!

Thanks, that's too kind 🙂

Thanks Masi!

Hi, thanks for that. If you look at the chip formation on the 0.5mm test, you can tell I have it slightly angled. That was on purpose to achieve what you describe, but I think the angle was not enough as it didn't make much of a difference. I didn't play more with that because I thought a more aggressive angle would push the blade into the work (these blades are thin and will bend) and make a concave face. But with time, I will give it another go. Thanks for your input!

Thanks John. Same to you 🙂

Thanks!

Thanks for subscribing. You're right, I didn't have a blade breaking yet, and one should respect this operation (as many others). As I say at the end of the video, I don't normally run my machinery hard, but for the video I had to show you the difference the tool made, hence risking it a little bit more. Thanks for the warning, it's sincerely appreciated 😉

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

I can see the downside with that method, yes. Another thing that helped me before I made this tool was to progressively widen the slot with the part off blade. I'm not sure why that helped (maybe less rubbing on the sides?) but it did, and it's also safer because it accumulates less chips in the groove. But even doing that my lathe would stall frequently. If you want to try this tool with less effort making it, have a look at Winky's plans (link in the description). Thanks

Thanks!

Thanks! Hope to keep you entertained!

Yep.I second that. My next project...Thanks

Hi Robert. You should have tons of experience! Thanks for taking the time to comment and share those observations!

Is there any other possible reaction? 😅

Hi Brandon, thanks! That is something I will try. Appreciated! 👍

I was using one my straight taps last Sunday and just noticed how much easier it was. They were cutting effortlessly while the spiral ones were almost grabbing. I don't use those much, because they're "my good set" (maybe that's the reason why I should use them more) but I think I'll start from now on, specially on through holes. The only downside of that set is they don't have clearance (fat shanks) for deep holes. Cheers!

@@nbrworks Use them 'good' ones, otherwise you'll get ancient like me & regret it. (I had that experience w/ files; started in auto mechanics @ 12, got into fab & race cars, as well, @ 16. Spent decades as line mechanic, shop owner, car builder/racer. Didn't own a new file until 65. Never a priority/xtra $, also cussed & avoided them. A new set of quality files opened my eyes to decades of dumb; a good file removes an amazing amnt of material; something 'zen' about it, as well. I've relegated my spiral taps to non-ferrous metals, after I broke a couple, did some research & found the supplier had stated "Use on non-ferrous metals". I wonder if there's been confusion between true spiral taps & helical 'screw' tap drills, 'cause I've seen vids of guys using spiral taps in drills. Yikes! If you read about taps, you'll find different straight flute taps are designed to either pull or push scarf when threading. Blind holes were being threaded long before spiral taps came along. MSC's Big Book catalog, (print version no longer produced - online only), has good tap design knowledge/info. Re: reduced shank taps Finally got frustrated w/ reg tap shanks & bought a mixed set of under-sized shank pulley taps & nut taps. Didn't know there were taps specifically for threading nuts; very long taper on nose. Pulley taps are just what you'd think; long enough to get about the OD. Both types are 6-7" long, ⅜ & under. Later, GeoD

You're right about that. In this case I could've/should've also used only a small portion of the hole threaded. Thanks for stopping by!

Thanks! Yes, I think I will have to get one of those scissor type knurling tools, this was the second or third time I used mine and didn't like it. It puts a lot of pressure on the turning part/bearings. A hemingway tool would be nice, but I don't know if they are too big for my lathe?? Maybe a scaled down one would be better? Questions. Slitting saw arbors, that's another one. They didn't grab because I was feeding very slowly, but I need to make a couple of arbors, that's for sure. Later, right now I'm working on something else! 😉

Hi, I'm using maxcut no.5 from rock oil.

Not sure. I looked around what I had immediately available, but found nothing better that a hacksaw blade and my hands. I did try a 1mm drill on a collet but runout was too much. Also the surface was not flat, it would break easily. Maybe a long 1mm endmill would've done it with very light passes, but I don,'t have one and certainly didn't want to break one in there. By hand it took a while though, only 3 or 4 teeth of the saw were cutting!

@@nbrworksThe best tool for the job is generally what you have available, and your tool did a fantastic job.

Thanks!

I actually googled it 😂

Hi and thanks. Have a look at the community tab/page. I made a post about this. Also have a look at the description of the video, there's a link to another video with some plans to make the same tool, just with a different shape. Thanks

Hi, I didn't spend too much time testing different speeds and depths of cut, but that finish was the best I got. I tried with 2 inserts (opposite sides) and the finish was not so good. The machine can't cope with 4 inserts or more, it's just too much for the motor. Using that face mill was more of an experience, I ordered the 80mm version, but got the 160!

😅

Hi. Seems like you don't have enough surface speed. If you're lathe has variable speed control, try to increase the spindle speed when you reach that point. If you're using the power feed, try manual feeding, you should get a better feeling for the tool.

@@nbrworks power feed is much smoother for me. I really have to apply a lot of force if i try to manually feed it. I was doing 40rpm. 2mm wide carbide insert. parting off pieces 316 stainless steel and 8 to 35mm diameter in range

It did a nice job. Imagine it it had inserts! 😅

@@nbrworks Hee hee, I mean it might work on aluminum... I'll have to give it a go...

Hi, I don't have that problem with mine. Do you have the bearings adjusted and the blade under tension? Sounds like something is loose.

Why go for carbide insert tooling that costs money when they wear or chip it , when you can just grind the end of an HSS for yesrs and years before you need to spend more money on a new blade? 😊

I don't have a carbide tool that fits in this tool holder, but I think it depends. If we're talking about a custom tool with a brazed carbide tip, I think it might work. If you were thinking about an insert tool, I think it wouldn't work very well. Normally those inserts are made with built in rake so that they sit horizontally in tool holders, also I'm not sure if they would resist very well to the 'hammering' this spring can cause on harder cuts. But, of course, I might be wrong.

@@chrisstephens6673 - Have you ever tried to put a C-clip groove in the outside of a hardened bearing race with HSS? Turn down the shank on an endmill for clearance? Had to cut down a hardened dowel pin? Make a part out of pre-hardened stock? Cut off a piece of linear bearing rod? HSS is great when you can use it, but you can't always use it.

@@somebodyelse6673 no argument there, yes I have cut many ciclip grooves on gearbox shafts and ground down a grooving tool to 1mm to do it, but for general use I use the same blade used in this video set at 7 degrees. For small stock I use a 1.6mm blade again set at 7 degrees to horizontal. Between those two parting tools most of my work is covered but I do keep a carbide insert holder in reserve.

Every shop... except Artisan Makes. It's part of the charm 😅 At 5:18 I'm using a cheap diamond coated strip (removed the plastic back). 600 grit I think, I find them useful to deburr/finish some edges, less aggressive than the files I have and I can do tight corners like that dovetail.