Welcome back, missed seeing your videos. Again, provides a truly clear concise and complete procedure for PA determination. This is the last calibration I require, could do some other less important ones, to run Klipper with confidence at the higher possible speeds. Thanks again for your contributions.

Perfect timing, as I started to look into running pressure advance on Klipper for the first time yesterday. Thanks

Thank you for the examples at the end showing with and without PA

It was about time I subscribed to this guy every time. I need something done and help with Klipper. This guy has the answer. You rock

I am really impressed with this lesson. It explains the more complex concepts in a clear and organized fashion. I appreciate the objectives listed at the beginning of the video as it helps organize the listeners thought process as they absorb the information. This is a good example of how lesson videos should be done. Subscribed.

Nice to see you back with a new helpful video Leo👏👏

Thank you very much. Mainly for the detailed explanation of each item. Doing the calibration in two steps is also a good idea, it adds great accuracy.

I finally got to undestand what pressure advance is thanks to your video. You've got a new subscriber

I have 15 3d printers and I never thought of this, so it will be an interesting view, and I look forward to seeing how it works on my printing quality

I recently finished updating my Alex marlin firmware for my h32 to klipper after watching your tutorial for it. Short story I got my 1st 3d printer because my youngest daughter was into it, and we used it for us to learn about 3d printing and to have something to do together. It was fun and frustrating at the same time. We have learned a lot from the growing pains. I didn't mind the initial assembling of the printer part as i felt it was crucial and necessary that we knew how things were put together and functioned to a certain degree. It is equally important to know the parts and know how to troubleshoot. Our major hurdle was manual bed leveling. I became better at it. However, as time passed, i grew less interested in 3d printing and at times complated buying an auto leveling 3d printer. We used it less as a result. Fast forward, i just happened to see your klipper tutorial. I was impressed by the setup. Then I saw the tutorial using klipper to auto level your bed quickly with bl touch. 🤔 Then i saw the mesh tutorial with klipper and bl touch. Those videoes inspired me to revisit our 3d printer and it was a game changer. I never wirelessly printed prior nor used a raspberr pi in that manner. Between the videos you graciously provided and took the time to share in detail, I was up and running like never before in a day. I added the PA setting as the last change to my congfig. I feel like my printer has been given new life. And what frustrated me was no longer an issue. I love srew tilt adjust. Like where was this all along 😂😊. Im sure many can relate to the frustration dealing with manually leveling you bed without me outlining the aount of time one could spend trying to get successful prints I can’t emphasize how discouraging and defeat we had prior to get quality prints. The difference now with the prints that I've done is night and day. Im happy that I took the time to watch your videos and had the patience to do the work to make the necessary changes. However, I must say that without your videos, I wouldn't be where I am now, that is, using our 3d printer again. Anyway, I just wanted to let you know that your content and what you have shared has helped tremendously. So thanks. I did have a hiccup on a couple of things that i resolved except one, but it is more of a nuisance than anything. - the screw tilt adjust I had my two rear screw bed locations swapped 😂. I kept getting weird adjustment values after each scan. Drove me nuts. In my head, I had (1, 2, 3,4) =>(front left, front right, left rear, right rear) vs counting counterwise on the bed starting from left right screw. Anyway, after that, the leveling was so easy. Unbelievably easy. - As I buttoned up, finishing all my changes, etc. I copied over your start print and end print commands from your site. I just glazed over them as I had much of what you had. I made some other changes and did another sanity print. Klipper kept triggering errors followed by the G28. I later found out that the gcode was a setting that I didnt have originally. Ive used cura so it didnt like absolute mode vs relative mode. I removed that and was up and going again. - the pause print macro causes the print head to try to travel beyond the max xy of the print bed. I couldn't locate the macro itself. It would resume printing if i choose to, but then the print job gets out of line from what the pause caused. I assume the pause print macro is somewhere in the firmware or elsewhere because i didn't see it the printer cfg. I was curious as to what parameters it was using. I'll look some more or try testing the pause macro more. Maybe I missed something. Anyway, keep up the good work and sharing.

I expect my first 3d printer in a couple of days. Your videos are just AWESOME! Thank you very much for these tutorials! Subscribed! 👍

Thanks Leo.Informative as usual.

That was an excellent explanation Leo!

Hey Leo, thanks for all your videos.

Thank you for this! This was the most clear explanation I have found.

Love this thank you, its my first time successful installing Klipper so the learning curve is steep at least in my experience, its videos like yours that truly help...personally i would love to see a full series on all the steps to properly calibrate - and with a why - you added that at the end haha

And another Jedi Master video :) Thanks Leo!

now i get it. i had a way to high pressure advance setting and all my prints where bad. now i am back on the right track!

This is the best guide on this subject I have seen yet. Liked and subscribed.

Excellent video! Thank you! My first Klipper printer arrives in under two days. I print a lot of TPU parts for my small online business. I'm not looking for faster print speed although that'll be nice for PLA and PET/G, but I'm looking forward to Klipper's input shaping and pressure advance increasing part quality, along with the Neptune 4 Pro's greatly improved part cooling.

Would love to see PA video based on Ellis' guide, haven't seen any out there. Thank you for the awesome content!

Leo is back. Leo is back! 🎉

Such a helpful video! I subscribed after your manual bed leveling guide, and now PA calibration is another friendly guide to follow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Klipper can be intimidating to the beginners, but your videos make it accessible.

just installed klipper trying to get my ender 3 s1 plus working as good as it should! will be watching more of your videos to get the best prints that I can

this video made me glad I'm using orca slicer with the test build into it...

Thank you so much for this video .. I was able to determine the pressure advance using Ellis' test. I could see the minute variations and I was able to select the right set of lines. TBH..I don't calibrate my printers since I just use them for rough prototypes. I just 'fix' a print whenever I want to work with it. I've been seeing these artifacts for years but I never thought about fixing them b/c I didn't understand. I completely rebuilt one of my printers and was interested in calibrating for klipper...and seeing how good I can actually get my prints.

Great vids and well explained. Thank you!

this video was nicely done, great info and explanation, thanks a lot Leo it is greatly appreciated .

great video, keep up the good work. I setup my aquila h32 with klipper and its running 100 times better.

Thanks a lot , your videos are awesome 👌🏻🤓

please use ellis method, your thorough explanation and guide are helpful. beyond what you believe your videos are, thank you!

Excellent explanation thank you.

Nice work!

Great lesson

Amazing video thank you so much.

Great Video Thanks

Thanks a lot, great video, i've improved a lot my print results. But i'm realizing that I have a lot to learn on retraction and slicer setup. Do you plan to do a video on the subject?

Que excelente video, muy bien explicado y eso que utilice subtítulos traducidos, muchas gracias, lo pondré en práctica.

Thank you for this video, I found it incredibly useful! I actually had some hiccups with the entire start gcode sequence - but it was my own doing. I have some start and end macros I had previously configured in my printer.cfg that it was whinging about, even after feeding it the bed and nozzle temps and confirming my macro name it was referencing in the template was correct. In the end I deleted everything out of the webpage and pasted a single line in: "START_PRINT BED=70 HOTEND=230" - that correctly called my macro and fed it two temp parameters that are typically passed through to it from Prucaslicer to automatically change the temps based on the filament I chose for that print job. Oh - I also have a suggestion that will shorten the starting time some. Instead of using just the M190 and M109 commands, I start my macro off with M104 for the nozzle and then M140 for the bed. The nozzle needs to be hotter, so it starts first. But what these two commands do is they *start* the heating but not pause the gcode - you can continue to issue other commands like G90 for absolute coords, G28 to home the printhead to happen at the same time. After G28 finishes, you can *then* re-tell it about the temps with the M190 and M109 commands, - this time taking advantage of the pause behaviour to make sure it continues to heat everything up to those required temps if it hasn't done so already. It's not necessary obviously, but I just like to make the printer multitask while it's heating and expedite that initial process as much as possible.

çok detaylı ve basit bir anlatım ... çok teşekkür ederim. benim için çok değerli bilgiler öğrendim.

Super, super, super!!!

You should put PA value not in the klipper.cfg, but in slicer material setting. Orca supports this natively, in PS you have to use Custom G-code in filament settings (like SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=0.02)

Nice

You should do an video on input shaping and pressure advanced. But using a voron and superslicer.

Hell yea

Great video. Quick question at 30:00, when you talk about saving different materials. Could you write a new line and comment it out. Then activate the one you want to use before printing? For example, "#pressure_advance: x.xx # abs" ? Have several of those for different materials. Then just add and remove the "#" for the one you want to print? Also, Do you have a video for rotation distance calibration for klipper? These videos are very helpful for a newbie like me!

Hi there Leo and all, I just done a fantastic PETG Neo-Green print of a Delta printer Spool Unit for my FL Sun QQ-S Pro 3D Printer and a two part piece Sun Lu Mounting Bracket to hold their nice S1 Filament Dryer Box Unit on top of the Frame of the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max all done on the Neptune 3 Max huge 400 x 400 mm bed. These are the most smooth amazing well done prints I ever got! I must have got the lovely Sun Lu PETG filament really dialed in? Their PETG filament is really some of the best filament I've tried and I tried many different brands. And Sun Lu I see is having a big 10th year sale on their filaments now. Like me you go and get a bargain. I not sponsored by them, I just like their PETG filament and thought you may too? The details are on the details of the video I done of the printing finishing on the Max. Hope you all like it? 😉 link below. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gJx8frSeutGXqWg.html

Valeu!

Hi All. im new to klipper and loving it, where do i find the "start print" macros in Klipper?

very clear video, thank you so much.. one question: in cura there is a klipper plugin where you can set values for pressure advance.. I prefer the printer.cfg method.. but (yes there is always a but ;) there you can also set: Infill Pressure Advance, wall pressure advance, Outer and inner wall. top / bottom, initial layer and skirt/brim pressure advance.. Top and outer wall make sense.. but how would you calibrate all those? Luc

I have an E3 V2 that I’m considering Klipper for. It will be running on a Ubuntu laptop and I will be getting an accelerometer before I convert. The printer has a Micro Swiss NG extruder and hot end and a CR Touch bed leveling system. It has the 4.2.7 motherboard installed as well. Everything else is stock. I run Orca or Prusa Slicer (mostly Orca). What else do I need to consider? Thanks in advance!

Hello, question, I cannot find my "start_print" or "print_start" in my fluid gcode, since only "cancel_print" appears, I tried putting "start_print" and "print_start", even if I couldn't do it and I get an error in all 3 cases , I don't know if I should put "cancel_print" which is the only thing I found in my gcode. What can I do in this case?

Do you may have time to make an vido about Bridging? I really can't find anything about it... I was typing to print this fancy loin but it comes out horrible every time and i cant really get the right settings

Do I need to zero out the value I have already before testing for other materials? Or does the GCode override the existing value?

Hi, thanks for the excelent video. Question: When I open the Gcode, the print is outside the bed. I have a round bed (Flsun V400). How can I change this? thanks

Great Video, but....Can realdeuce be adapted for a delta style printer?

Do you have a good tutorial to add Klipper to the Anet A8? I already have Octoprint/Klipper on my Pi 3 and it’s ready to go. So I guess now all I need is the firmware?

I was wondering if someone in the comments could correct me or at least point me in the right direction cuz I feel like I know I'm wrong. I've noticed on Aurora Tech channel and this channel that the pressure advances are typically .20 for example. When I use Orcaslicer Pressure Advance Calibration, I get a value of .020. How come you guys are playing around in the hundreds and mine is down in the thousands of a decimal point? Was wondering if someone could do a pressure advanced test on their orca slicer and see if they see somewhere results. Thanks everyone! Happy holidays that are coming up! My current Klipper Pla PA setting is .024.

do i need to set it to 0 before calibrate? or left how it is in klipper? 0.12

My "fast" lines are always thinner than my slow lines. Do you have any idea what I'm possibly doing wrong here?

Great video! , i followed the steps, but what is confusing me is that the print starts from 0 to 0.09, my final result is somewhere between 0.05 to 0.055 so i kept it in the middle. I am using a sonic pad and an ender 3 s1 pro.

Hi, i have the Ender 3 S1 Pro and following this my most consistant lines were around the 0.06 and 0.07 which seems a little high?

Cool video, but what about smooth time? Nobody's talking about it. How to tune it? What is it:P

I have a direct drive Ender 3 v3 SE, I tested from 0 to 0.1 as suggested, but none of my lines were connected. Is it safe to test higher values or does it indicate that another setting needs looking at?

@PrintsLeo3D Hi Can you please help with this message from Klipper? Move exceeds maximum extrusion (5.775mm^2 vs 1.440mm^2). I have exported the G-code and have this issue. Printer will stop and not print anything. Probably safety reason. What can I change to avoid this issue? Thank you!

Hi. I just did a test and non of the lines look good. Any tips to get this sorted ? thanks

Hi great video, I've used the Ellies method before and thought I'd try this out. However I cannot get a good result, the best is around 0.4 and I've tried ranges from 0.3-0.5 but I have some 'bulging' on the right side of the lines. What types of things can affect this? I have an ender 3v2 with bi-metal hot-end and I have already configured input shaping. thanks.

I thought that @indyspud solution would be solve this but it didn't. I had this error: " 23:19 SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard 23:19 SDCARD_RESET_FILE cannot be run from the sdcard 23:19 Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000] 23:19 Move out of range: -0.013 -0.013 10.000 [0.000] 23:17 Warming up for bed leveling " For me pasting "START_PRINT BED=70 HOTEND=230" and removing the rest doesn't work. I even tried comparing it with an example of my cura gcodes and pasting it on that gcode, but it doesn't work: " M104 S200 M105 M109 S200 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=bed_temp VALUE=70 SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=extruder_temp VALUE=220 START_PRINT "

I can not get my extruder to stop skipping. Any ideas?

And why are you not applying the PA value via a setting / start-gcode command in the filament properties of your slicer?

Hooks law.... Captain shook is shown ha ha

thx for the video but i woundring if you know why i get this up when i try to print a test? Error evaluating 'gcode_macro PRINT_START:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'dict object' has no attribute 'BED_TEMP'