Thanks Gavin!

Great tip! Thanks!

Even for uprights?

@@ElikemTheTuner Yes, as long as the capstans are properly adjusted...which they should be if levelling keys!

Rick can’t either! I’m not that smart, but I learned how to do it. I’ll show you next month.

Hahaha, been there! Sorry for you, but it really isn’t too hard. Here’s a long answer, and my vertical regulation eBook goes into more detail, but I hope the following helps. Two steps: First, you must determine the proper key height. If you didn’t suck up too many punchings with the vacuum, see where most of the keys are (height) and that may be the best place to start. Most manufacturers have a spec and that’s a good start if you need to begin from scratch. If you can’t find that, measure from the top of the keyslip (the board right in front of the keys) to the top of the key. (Ivory or plastic keytop) This should be between 17 and 21mm. More importantly, the key must not be so high that you can see under the key, or that it hits the fallboard or case parts when assembled. The key height can be raised by actually raising the balance rail (raiding/shimming under the 4 rail by loosening the 4 screws) but hopefully you have paper punchings. Also, set a sample key! Make this work before doing all the keys. In your sample try to have at least one cardboard punchings and 2 or 3 paper punchings under the felt (cloth) punching of the balance rail. Under your sample note try to have at least one cardboard punching and 2 or 3 paper punchings (this makes it easy to make minor adjustments) under the front rail cloth punching. Then start by making the dip (the travel of the key at the front) at 10mm. With the balance rail height set, and the dip at 10mm (+/- .2mm) here is the way the to achieve the best performance: Measure blow distance (distance from the hammer head at rest to the string) move the hammer rest rail forward by adding a rubber mute at one of the brackets, and starting at about 45mm blow, check the aftertouch of the key by playing a medium loud blow (mf). Hold the note down, then look at the hammer butt and the Jack should be about 1/32” away from the butt. This is a very general rule, but this is very close to being perfect for most upright pianos. When you make this sample work, the piano has now “told you” what to do. Now, I know that was a long answer and maybe hard to understand, so I’ll summarize: On a sample key: Set key height. Set dip to around 10mm. Set blow to about 45mm play a mf note and see that there is 1/32” between the Jack and hammer butt. Between dip/blow/letoff minor adjustments you should help you discover the optimal regulation for the piano. Hope that helps! Regulation is actually very simple, but at first it can seem daunting. Good luck!

Buenos días Maestro es un gusto escucharlo de la forma clara de todas sus explicaciones soy técnico en la reparación restauración de pianos ....me interesaría por gentileza conseguir poder ver un tutorial de la manera que se enfieltra una martillera mi intención es enfieltrar..los martillos sin tener que descabezarlo agraderia cualquier información del mismo ..... muchas gracias Juan harey Soy de buenos Aires ARGENTINA

Thank you. What is the title of the ebook and is it on amazom? Thank you

Wessel Nickel and Gross has the best ones on the market right now. Mine was bought years ago from a company that no longer is in business.

@@jbuzz8853 thanks for your reply! I will check into that and get one! Thank you so much for your videos. This could at a very minimum half my keybed leveling time.