Big Ron you need to get some of our locking hubs!! Check out our videos on our locking hub kits you will ABSOLUTELY love them! Check out some of the videos on our channel under the Dodge Hubs playlist! Call us if you have any questions 817-429-0105 we are always happy to help!

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We appreciate the compliment Christopher! Please share our new website therammaninc.com/ which is loaded with more helful videos. We are slowly but surely updating the website with new products each week.

When you have disc front and back, you want even flow on your brake lines (regular distribution block). It's only when you have front disc / rear drum that sometimes requires a proportioning valve (depending on how the car behaves in hard braking).

Prop valves are NOT usually the culprit. Watch the two videos at the link titled "Brakes Dragging": therammaninc.com/videos/Trouble-Shooting-Videos-142

If it's a brass or aluminum valve body, we might be able to rebuild your original for you. Email us some photos of your valve. therammaninc.com/products/Brake-Component-Rebuilds-143

Hello Aaron. Email us some photos of your master cylinder to (info@TheRamManINC.com) so we can help you. We suspect it's residual valves in the master cylinder.

Hello Aaron. Your master cylinder is a 'drum brake' unit and has check valves behind the brass seats in the line ports. These valves maintain a constant 5-10 psi on the wheel cylinders for faster drum shoe engagement. SOLUTIONS: 1. We have a special 15/16 Master Cylinder that bolts right up to the original Bendix Single Diaphragm Booster that you have. Not just any master cylinder will bolt up because of the Booster’s pushrod. AND your master cylinder MUST have the correct bore depth in the rear piston chamber so that they match regarding power distribution…….nothing will work better! 2. You can also just simply remove the check valves from the brake line ports of your existing master cylinder. Either one of the two scenarios will most likely fix your problem.

Give us a call Anthony.......we can probably rebuild that valve for you. therammaninc.com/ 817-429-0105

Valves are almost NEVER the problem. However, too much pedal travel (with a front disc / rear drum setup) is almost always due to a problem with the rear drum setup. Worn drums, worn brake shoes, not adjusted properly, etc are usually the culprit. Most people don't realize that even a small amount of wear past the drum's wear specifications, can have an exponential effect on pedal travel. That's why, many years ago, you could buy brakes shoes that were slightly thicker than the normal specs, to compensate for drum wear. Jack the rear end of your car up, get a buddy to help you gently press the brakes while you observe the behavior of the rear wheels braking and simultaneously communicate with your buddy on how much pedal travel there is. Then pull the drums and do the same thing again....is one side acting differently from the other (one side braking sooner)? How far does the pedal travel before the shoes engage with the drums? What's happening with the wheel cylinder pistons? These are all the things that can be the culprit to your pedal travel. Once you are able to see with your own eyes what is going on when he pushes on that brake pedal, you'll probably discover the cause of your pedal travel problem.

THERAMMAN01 thx for the reply but we did all that we have a lift to to do thorough checks for leaks as well. nice to know the P-valve is probably not the prob because that is a spaghetti factory in there!