How big are these holes? He mentioned that a quarter inch hole wouldn't do much

🎉this makes way more sense then the way emp doc explains…. I for one am Not happy with all the mixed info ( even from emp doc) .. the gaps around his magnets appear ridiculous, especially when he is selling expensive gaskets to ensure no electrical leakage??? I guess I am not very trusting .. but thank you for a better idea! 👍

Thank you!

Only cheap ones do. Serious safes do not have keys because keyed locks are weak.

Yep, some do, but many don't.

Another option you may have; I had my electronic lock replaced by a mechanical lock. Not every locksmith can or wants to do that. In my city there is a locksmith business that has been around for 50 yrs. It takes some skill. He commented to me when he came to change mine that he was getting a lot of requests to make this change. I don’t know exactly what he meant by a lot, and I didn’t ask. I had called several locksmiths before I found one willing to do it. One place said that it could not be done, but in can be done and it took about an hour. The mechanical lock that was installed has 4 different numbers and each number has to be circled around a different number of times. It usually takes me several tries to get in bc I don’t open it very regularly. Much more of a hassle than a digital code, but I made this change several years ago before Arthur made this video.

@@TheOnlySaneAmerican Serious safes have mechanical combination locks because electronic ones don’t hold up.

A fellow I know is inventing something sort of like this. I hope he comes out with it soon.

I looked at this a few years back (search my channel, and you'll see an overview video). The containers do offer some shielding, but the doors allow in RF energy. You'd need to seal it up well to really get great shielding. Some people have used conductive curtains out of "EMP cloth" or used gaskets around the doors.

No, mainly because it's very difficult to actually set up a real EMP test. I'd love to do it one day.

@@disasterprepper what is your confidence level that a modern quality red dot would be rendered inoperable? Thx for your response.

@@Valorius buy a Primary Arms micro prism. Has the reticle etched into the glass so it is still usable in the event of an EMP, solar flare or CME.

The issue with shielding versus only certain directions is that RF energy tends to bounce around and come in at all sorts of angles. You'd get some shielding, but it wouldn't be great even in the directions where metal was in the path.

I have the same question

No, I should have mentioned this. No need to remove the paint.

On my safe, I put a gasket on all four faces where the door mates with the safe body.

I was wondering the same thing.

Nope, no need to strip the paint. I looked at this previously.

He answers this question, witch I also had further down. And thankfully says it is not necessary.

That's my question as well. Does it need to conduct?

No, you don't need to remove the paint. Previous tests showed that the thin layer of paint isn't likely to affect shielding enough to matter.

@@disasterprepper Thanks Doc. BTW I mentioned your page in the comments of the last Mark Moss video. The guest was good except he brought up EMP and didn't know what he was talking about... It's mostly a financial page, but hopefully they get you on sometime.

⁠🎉🎉 ?? I like your channel and info, But Very disappointed to get conflicting info. On one hand a little paint won’t affect electrical leakage, and your lock material cover has many gaps between magnets, but it OK ? BUT Then you sell expensive gaskets for what? If they are necessary, then the rest of the information is incorrect??? And what about the mounting holes most safes have in the bottom ? I really want to protect my safe so I can open , but not very confident in All the mixed info on line and within your videos?

My gun safe has fire/heat-activated foam that expands to seal the door opening. I'd have to ask my safe manufacturer the same question.

That's a good question. I'm not really sure.

Layering like this works very well. To determine the net shielding, you generally add the dBs of each layer.

I couldn't offer an informed suggestion on this. Welders do put off quite a bit of electromagnetic energy due to their sparking operation, and shielding of portion of the human body is pretty trick to do effectively.

You could measure the shielding effectiveness to be sure, but I would guess yes. I think you can get 50+ dB shielding in a gun safe properly sealed.

Cover the holes with conductive tape.

Only cheap ones do. Serious safes do not have keys because keyed locks are weak.

@@TheOnlySaneAmerican Almost all gun safes have a hidden key lock to get in for people who forget their combo. Almost all gun safes are built the same. With thin sheet metal and sheetrock and carpet on the inside. If you spent a ton on a gun safe someone saw you coming.

Some do, some don't. I think it's considered a potential weakness to some safe manufacturers and owners.

I don’t know if keyed locks are good or not. However mine does not have a key feature. And several years ago I had my electronic lock replaced with a mechanical lock. That was before Arthur made this video.

I'll just say that I have reason to believe that they are 100% accurate.

I'm not really certain. It seems like it would work well, but I'd have to measure it with test equipment. The seam where the lid goes on is the part that might compromise it.

Just in case you haven’t seen it, Arthur did test a metal galvanized trash cans. They offer good protection so long as you have these conductive gaskets on the inside of the lid so that the lid seals tight. He sells an EMP testing device which I have. I have never tested it with an oil drum.

@@tmt8425 Yeah sadly they arent as popular in Europe and are significantly harder to find than oil drums

@@will8649 popcorn tins like the kind that are popular around Christmas (at least here in the states) are very cheap, work very well, and come with a load of popcorn.

Yes, that would work fine too. Just makes it hard to get in and out.

I would think it would help some, but probably not more than 5-10 dB. Still something.

There are many, but 43 mix is good for broadband suppression.

@@disasterprepper Thanks. That's what we use in ham radio for a lot of RFI supression on HF I was also thinking of adding Mix 61 to enhance EMP effect on higher frequencies. Best regards and thank-you kindly. Greg in Vancouver BC

Will a 31 mix be sufficient?

Solar CMEs affect things attached to very long conductors (think miles, not feet). If your solar power generation system is connected to the grid, it could certainly be damaged by a CME. But if it's disconnected from those mile-long conductors, it won't be harmed by a CME.

@@disasterprepper I didn't think the solar panels themselves would be so affected but things like inverters or other control modules & such. I was just asking so I might put away such items in a Faraday cage for backups. I also was wondering if electronics had to be on to be effected or if they are inert if shut off. Thanks

Hi. I have been following Arthur for years. As far as electronics and EMPs electronics that are turned off or even stored will be damaged. I’m just talking about EMP. I don’t know about an inverter hooked to a solar system during a CME. I focus on protecting from an EMP. If it’s a CME that isn’t of some Biblical proportion, you will be able to buy a replacement I believe. I’m only aware of one CME that hit in the 1990s at the time when people had pagers before cell phones got popular. I remember that the pagers themselves were not damaged, but some satellites that carried the signals were damaged and so there was a disruption of of pager service, but the CME did not damage the pagers themselves. But if one is talking about an EMP, then any replacement electronics you have need to be protected even while turned off and are in storage. I hope this helps.

No, it really doesn't matter for an EMP. The energy is in the far field, so it's really about reflection and absorption rather than shunting energy or terminating electric fields.

@@disasterprepper many thanks

I’ve been following Arthur for years. I noticed you didn’t have a reply to your question. An EMP will damage night vision goggles and navigation system if it is electronic which it undoubtedly is, unless it is a straight up compass that only uses a needle to detect direction. If you go to the items he offers, there are different bags you can buy to store your night vision goggles. As to solar panels, it is possible they will be damaged along with any inverter or other equipment it may use. I don’t use my small solar array of three panels very often. When not in use I wrap them in the conductive cloth Arthur has. He tested multiple cloths. The ones he sells are the ones that performed the best in his trials.

It's a good idea. I'll try to do a video on this.

Not sure what he said, but the general expectation is that a powerful EMP might reach 50-100 kV/meter.

@@disasterprepper Thanks