A new concept for protecting your flange bushing against thick and heavy vegetation on your Thai longtail mud motor: Prototype #2
One issue people combat when running a Thai long-tail mud motor is having vegetation build upon the inner shaft in between the prop and the flange bushing. This is bad because it stops water from getting to the flange bushing. The flange bushing needs water to cool it. No water = hot flange bushing = melting/swelling/excessive-wear.
So we need to stop vegetation from collecting/building-up there.
Prototype #2 is a 1.25" PVC pipe that will slide over your longtail shaft (mine is an SPS Swamp Runner yours may differ depending on the brand but the concept is still the same).
Again, 1.25" PVC pipe slides over the shaft and covers the space in between the prop and the flange bushing. Holes will be drilled on the end closest to the prop so that water can still EASILY get to the flange bushing.
It can be secured to the longtail shaft in multiple ways. Main goal: stop it from sliding front to back.
a.) cut a slit in the PVC pipe and use a hose clamp to tighten the PVC pipe on to the shaft
b.) using a screw to mount it to the outer shaft
c.) [my preferred method] get a 1" pipe {instead of 1.25"} cut a slit down the entire length, then spread it, slide it onto the shaft, and then release it onto the shaft so it clamps itself onto the outer longtail shaft.
I will not be able to test this any time soon because I am in the process of creating the Backwater mud motor review. If you are able to create this, let me know on this mud motor facebook group - / longtailmudmotors
BOAT SETUP:
1436 lt Alumacraft Jon Boat (would not recommend - get a tracker or something else other than an Alumacraft) {135lbs}
13hp Predator Engine by Harbor Freight (serial/model number 60349 [hemi-version]) {76lbs}
Medium Swamp Runner Longtail Mud Motor Kit {57lbs}
Custom front deck and floor {~75lbs}
Battery, trolling motor, fishing supplies, cooler, anchor, etc... = {~100lbs}
My weight = 150lbs
Total weight = 600 pounds
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