Yes find where your ignition is firing on your crank. Use the timing light and turn off your injectors. Crank engine and verify your at 20 degrees tdc. If not. Adjust your offset angle till it is at 20 degrees. Turn on injectors and start. If it back fires. You’re 360 degrees off. Change your offset by 360. Try starting again once verified it’s back on 20 degrees.

Thanks. I got it up and running. Your video helped me identify that the PRP instructions had the sensors backwards. Followed your wires and setup and switched my cam and crank sensors and added my TDC and bam it picked up the signal and went in the timing marks area then fined tuned the TDC to get to 20 degrees while locked. Thanks it runs way smoother now vs with the stock CAS

And I tested the cas and it’s not reading right

Message me directly at luckycls17 of fb messenger. I’m not starting a thread on here.

You only lock the trigger timing to ensure you are seeing the exact timing with a timing light. Once that is done you unlock it and it’s calibrated to hit exact timing.

@@luckycls17 So would it matter either way if it was locked at 0 or 20 and then unlocked? Or would the ecu automatically compensate. I’m no tuning expert by any means but two tuners seemed that have issues with the trigger kit the first time after setting base timing I had accidentally had two wires backwards so the car wouldn’t start again after shutting off it wasn’t until after moving the trigger bracket to a different location and figuring out the wires were in two different spots it always has a small break up at 5500rpm now where it loses connection for a second. As much information I found online which wasn’t much they talked about swapping edges, just looking for input because I can’t find anything online

@@AlexDegnall locking the timing is just to set timing. not to run it. the engine just runs better at 20 degrees vs 0 degrees. this is only to ensure that everything is exact. cause once you unlock it then it floats around on the ignition map for where ever you say for it to go. either by advancing or retarding on your ignition map. if you are having break up at 5500 rpms you have something else messed up. i don't recommend messing with the ignition map unless you are a qualified tuner with a dyno and can adjust it in the map and see where you get the most optimal gain. altering the map can cause sever damage. the main point though is when you say go to 20 degrees. its actually firing at 20 degrees on the crank and not 50. so lock it at a number 20 preferred. and set it by adjusting the offset angle or the home sensor bracket to fire exactly at 20. once its set at 20 confirmed on the crank with a timing light. unlock it to then do dyno pulls to dial in the map by a professional. i don't want you to blow it up cause messing with this stuff has sever consequences.

I didn’t use the prp connectors.

add 360 degrees to the offset angle see what happens

@@luckycls17 yes I did and now it starts fine thanks bud

@@ahmadmariri no problem bud!

What’s your timing set at with the timing light?

@@luckycls17 Not sure what you mean. I locked the timing at 0 in the ECU when when I was setting it up. I am wondering if I should try rotating the cam sensor bracket further so it syncs to the next edge or tooth from the crank sensor signal.

@@luckycls17 Oh when I was running the car and watching the home signal jump around the timing was locked at 15 degrees.

if you would like to message me you can find me as luckycls17@yahoo.com on facebook or christopher smith. Im painting my house at the moment bud. but i will gladly help if you need guidance you can message me or video chat etc so i can see what your talking about.

supertecracing.com/collections/black-friday-2023-promotion/products/rb-cam-crank-trigger-sensor-connector

Thanks man@@luckycls17

okay so there is multiple questions here. so lets start with setting the offset. yes it is easier to do with the motor out of the car vs in the car. i think this was the hardest part to do when there was little room to work with in the first place. i ran zero tests on my sensors before running it. but yes set up some offset like PRP said and be done. you can advance or retard the ignition with offset angle in the ecu which took some trial and error. 720 degrees max cause its a 4 stroke engine. 1 revolution only does 2 cycles which is 360 degrees. so if she backfires and tries to run but doesn't add 360 degrees and see if she fires up then verify timing locked at 20 degrees is 20 degrees. next question. did i omit the 3 wire connectors. yes i trashed them and put the supertech connector on. cleaner and allows the option to put the oem CAS back onto it quick and easy. yes i split the power and ground wires. I have had zero trigger issues since install.

@@LeroyGTR I’m currently in process of rebuilding the engine. I couldn’t tell you at the moment.

Ahh ok thanks. I had the car up and running but i went to a race kit and Haltech suggested that the home % travel should be around 50%. Then told me dont worry about it too much if its around 36%. So was seeing what does yours sit at. I ended up moving the CAS bracket to the middle so i can adjust it in both directions. I had it more towards your location but i was firing at 700 degrees to get it starting at 20 degrees when locked. But since i moved the CAS im waiting for the battery to re charge so i can re set the timing

However, do you recall when you installed the kit did the car start up with the timing “locked" at 20 degrees? Or did you just confirm it was firing at 20 degrees then unlocked the timing?

@@LeroyGTR confirm firing at 20 degrees locked. Then release and alter your timing map to your fuel n boost.

Ok cool thanks i figured that. Had a brain fart because when i locked it i got it to fire at 20 degrees and start the car still locked at 20 degrees when i enabled the injectors. But since i moved the CAS bracket i can get it to fire at 20 degrees while locked but not start the car while locked at 20 degrees. Lol ill recheck the timing when locked at 20 degrees, then unlock it and see if it starts and idles thanks