Glad it helps. Still a lot of work.

It has become a disposable world, and it's a shame. I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Thanks

@@metalplasticelectronics354 whats the soldering temp please

I don’t think Sony even considers the DualSense repairable, just disposable. That’s why they brought out the Edge with it’s 20 dollar joystick module.

Seriously wtf. I want fix my joystick drift but i have to use a frickin' soldering tool to do it? Unreal.

@@dawens3199 unfortunate, but you can get all the soldering tools you need for it plus the replacement sticks for half the price of a new controller which is what I did.

@@dawens3199It is a bummer on the initial investment, but once you've learned the skill and get good with all the tools, they end up paying for themselves many times over across their lifetime. I made so many repairs with a $6 soldering iron when I was younger, it was terrible but got the job done and saved me so much money vs replacing stuff. Eventually bought a nicer $60 iron, a hot air rework station, and some "helping hands" to improve my setup, as the investment was worth how much easier it made the process.

Agreed, coukd change it easily on N64

thats what i did to fix mine.

Bro i think it’s better to replace the whole thing because it takes too much work to take it apart and if only one is damaged probably the other are worn out as well I had a issue with mine and I replaced left and right one, long time ago and still working like it was brand new

@@fernandopineda4400 physically yes but dropping 70 bucks every three months isn't a viable thing to do when you have two kids vs 10 bucks and eventually when hall effects sticks are made to fit in its place be a long term replacment

@@fernandopineda4400 also one is used for movement the other for aiming the aim or right stick is usually more afflicted in my time playing games(30+ years at this point) usually the left stick is unaffected by drift as severely as the right analog stick only on the switch have I seen stick drift on the left joycon which is easy to fix

@@Jihadbearzwithgunz I play fifa only bro that’s why my left stick is the one damaged lol and I paid 14 buck for the replacement parts 😎 never spending 70 on stuff like that specially with the cost of living now

Glad it was helpful!

I'm going to have to add controller technician to my goddamn resume after this.

Yep same here 😂

I think ima just start my own business anyone want their ps5 controller fixed hit me up 😂😂😂

I hear ya, this is obviously for people confident and competent enough to do such a thing, I been thinking about trying it if my sticks fail. I'm picky about having good sticks and buttons, I installed the extreme rate paddles on a couple controllers so I have part of this down already. You can get a pack of 4 joysticks for like $8

Bro what, it’s not that difficult. Getting the factory solder off is the only real hurdle.

Where can I get them?

​@SGVSOUTHSIDE eBay, I got 6 for only £4. I've fitted two into the left analog stick which was pulling to the left, cleaned the whole stick with contact cleaner and it's cured the drift. The only thing is now there is a very slight click/notchy feeling when the stick is moved to the right like something is not quite seated correctly, or something is rubbing inside the actual moving parts of the joystick. I think the PS5 joystick parts are cheap rubbish, made from poor quality plastic and built to fail, meaning you'll buy a new controller every time, making more money in controller sales. Just my opinion.

What do you call those? I'm trying to find them on eBay lol

@@PullOutPapa they are called potentiometers

Hi, I replaced both controllers and still have drift. Could you share a link to these "little white pieces" that you've used from eBay? Cheers. @@stephennoble2647

Yea, without a vacuum desoldering gun it’s not an easy task. I don’t know what advice to give. It the center pin of a potentiometer is open or the trace to it is damage. That could cause it to drift and for that axis to not have any effect. Does either axis have any effect on the joystick you changed?

No problem 👍

I would expect it to be probably the cheapest no lead solder there is.

Need to reflow the joint with leaded solder

Glad it was helpful!

It's not that hard to learn. And if you saved the old controllers will have something to practice on.

I'm glad you enjoyed it.

It does take a bit of time to replace them. More like it's something you want to do. But the controllers are not cheap.

There is this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.htmlsi=-dLqe79wx1ckpX_s and if you have a broken controller could always give it a try.

Thank you very much.

You might want to take a look at this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.html

Here is one way with no desoldering iron kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.html Though it does add quite a bit of time to the process.

I hope it goes well.

Glad it helped.

I don't know of any cheap desoldering guns. You want to make sure the stick is made for PS5. The potentiometer value on the dualsense are around 2k ohm instead of the 10k on the PS4 controllers. I think most of the orange ones will have 2k3 printed on them if they are made fro the dualsense.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok no worries ill look for a desoldering gun station and thank you for your reply i was having a hard time for the analog stick type👍

Glad it helped.

Thanks for watching!

My pleasure 😊

I could only see that having an effect if it could flex the PC board the joystick is mounted on.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 that is the theory

I'm glad you like it.

But wouldn't it be fun to try?

I have not tried, but from reports, it seems there is a there is a very high likelihood of drifting.

I hope it's still under warranty.

​It's the lead-free solder, it has a higher melting point.

It's not an easy part to change, that's for sure.

I’m sorry it didn’t work, but I hope you at least had some fun trying.

I think when they design the thing there is no though put into them being repaired. It’s a bit of a job just to get to the joystick. It is possible to use a very small pair of side cutters and cut the joystick leads. Then just remove one lead at a time. But still a possibility of damaging the PC board by the cutting process. What are you thoughts on the Hakko FR-301? And thank you for watching and the comment.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 I don't think Sony has left open the possibility of replacing the analog module of dualsense. Even at the official after-sales center, partial repairs or replacements are carried out only within one year, and after that, they refuse to pay repairs because they are consumables. In the video, I saw that there is a high possibility of PCB damage without a vacuum disoldering tool or a heating gun, so I purchased the FR-301, which I have been eyeing. The country of origin is Japan, and in Japan, considering the exchange rate, it is only about $150, but in Korea, it is an expensive piece of equipment that costs about $330. However, the performance is thought to be very good, and in fact, mechanical keyboard enthusiasts use it a lot for lubrication. Anyway, I was worried about where to buy reliable parts, but I saw the video and purchased the parts from kasynparts. thank you!

Look up hall effect joysticks - this is the design-tech solution that has been gaining attention and should be offered more and more as part of or as replaceable option going forward

Currently trying to get my analog with a fr301 and I've gone over all of the pins and I still cannot remove the analog. Any tips ?

@@mr2k_all_day Get some tweezers and wiggle the pins to find out which ones are stuck. If it is just a tiny bit of solder you may be able heat it with a soldering iron and free it just by moving it a bit with the tweezers. Otherwise resolder the stuck pins, then try cleaning them again. You probably didn't heat up the joint enough before pulling vacuum, so try turning up the heat on the 301.

I think they are supposed to have a 1 year warranty, so before pulling it apart I would try and contact Sony.

It may be part of the potentiometer element has worn. Does it move smoothly around the center area or jerk a bit when moved?

@@metalplasticelectronics354 it moves smoothly. If I let it go back to dead centre itself from max position, it goes to 0%. A gentle push of the joystick and it’ll to back to 2% unless I gently touch the thumb stick then it stays at 0%. Other side of potent. might be worn but soldering is hard.

It may be it is worn somewhat. Might try and recalibrate the controller. Take a look at this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Zsx7ZNaS1dyUiX0.htmlsi=n52R8aQgmtS09jGt.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 I did thank you. Recalibrated and it’s working perfectly now. Will replace the full potentiometer when it fails again.

I don’t think it reads the value of the potentiometer. One end of each goes to ground and the other end if I remember right is at 1.8 volts. But I think several people have had centering problems using the 10K pot values. It depends on how the voltage is read. If it’s just a basic SAR ADC then the difference between the 10K ohm and 2.1K ohm could have some effect on the sample and hold values. I think it’s safer just to replace with the 2.1 or 2.3K potentiometers. To much work to have to redo it. And thanks for the comment. I do appreciate it.

All good they tested proper numbers

I really appreciate that info, if I didn't know I might have accidentally put in a PS4 potentiometer on my PS5 controller board

I sure wish Sony would add an app to calibrate the joysticks, would save a ton of aggravation.

It sure seems the quality of the joystick modules has gone down.

I'm not sure how interchangeable the Hall effect joystick modules are. The DualSense controller joysticks run at 1.8 volts. If the Hall sensor in the joystick runs at that low of a voltage, then it will probably work in the DualSense. I've only tried one type of Hall joystick at present. I've ordered a set from Amazon that looks like K-silver ones, but the description doesn't say anything about the brand. I'll see when I get them. I'll make a video on them.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Great. Thanks.

This is the model I have: a.co/d/9oAjDkx . But there are other brands that look the same that are cheaper.

I sure don't. You might check and see if the ends of the capacitor connect to the ground and the supply pins of the joystick potentiometers. If so, it's probably just a bypass cap, and the value will not be that critical. I think they are 0201 size. If the length is about 1 mm, then they are 0402. If the length is about 0.6 mm, then they are 0201. Amazon used to sell some SMD chip capacitor kits. If they don't, then you will probably have to order from a place like Mouser or DigiKey. For a bypass cap, I would try a 100 nanofarad to start with.

Thanks so much! Will let you know how it goes. [update] spot on! They look about 0.6mm (so 0201) and my reading was 127nf !! Thanks for replying so quickly, I thought my controller was a goner 🤣! Will order them now :)

​The joystick modules are a real weak spot for these.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 I just got the dual sense edge because I can’t deal with this again.

​@@SuperCarsFromTheHoodDualsense Edge has the exact same problem y'know. At that price range you're better off with a HYPR modified Dualsense with electromagnetic joysticks for a longer joystick lifespan

The solder is Kester 44 63/37, but any good solder will do. The tin lead has a bit lower melting point than the lead-free, so it is a bit easier on the PC board. The vacuum desoldering gun is a very old Hakko 470, it's been discontinued for years. The soldering iron is a Hakko FX-951. It's the best soldering iron I've ever had, but a bit on the expensive side.

I really don’t know how well the cheaper vacuum desoldering stations work. Amazon has a bunch of different models. But that type of tool works better than anything else I’ve ever tried. Probably for the grounds going to need up around 700F/380C, maybe a bit more. But going to depend on the soldering iron and some what on the solder. I’m not sure what you mean by brass. The solder for electronics will solder brass. Probably will want some extra flux for it.

Once you see what's in one the price does seem pretty reasonable. I think they may be putting too much pressure on the joystick module suppliers to lower cost.

​@@metalplasticelectronics354the ps3 and 2 controllers which used the same system worked for 10 years plus with no stick drift. Definitely cheap build built to break on purpose its called preplanned obsolescence. Look that term up.

Are the replacement potentiometers the right value. Some places selling 10 kohm for the DualSense when they should be 2k. Or the new potentiometer may not be in good shape. I ordered 20 Favor Union joysticks. 1 of the 20 had a potentiometer that was defective.

Thanks!

I don't know. Might have to be a hall joystick made for the DualSense. The move from 10K in the DualShock, to 2K potentiometers makes me wonder if they lowered the reference voltage to the joystick.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Do you think unsoldering the GuliKit Electromagnetic Module Joystick for Steam Deck from it's board and soldering it to the PS5 board would work?

I doubt it. The output from them is probably the hall sensor voltage.

Look up hall effect joysticks - this is the design-tech solution that has been gaining attention and should be offered more and more as part of or as replaceable option going forward

This is my thought as well. My controller hasn't drifted yet thankfully but i know it will someday. I wish that there will be replacement hall effect joystick specifically for the dualsense 5 in the near future.

Oh, I hope not.

That's why I did this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.html. It can be done without spending a lot on tools.

I hope it goes well. Good luck.

If your replacing alps for alps, then you don’t have to remove then entire joystick. Can just remove the three leaded potentiometer element and replace it. It just clips in the joystick metal frame.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for responding im gonna follow these instructions when everything arrives

No, you sure can't. The only thing you can do is use a meter and try to find a replacement potentiometer that is close to the original one.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you for the prompt reply. I see. Then it must have been something with the analog stick I was using or maybe the stick wasn’t properly seated.

Take a look at these videos: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.htmlsi=E5XgcRxwQ4vUlwW9 and kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z6mpi7SW3prap30.htmlsi=qicdacTY40YgUnWx . I have some of the items listed in the description.

Anything pack so full of part is always going to be a challenge to fix. But it's worth the effort.

Look up hall effect joysticks - this is the design-tech solution that has been gaining attention and should be offered more and more as part of or as replaceable option going forward

It's has to be something you want to do. Because it is a bit of work.

​The little flex cables are a bit fragile, but who needs a microphone in a controller. Glad you were able to get it working.

It is a very old Hakko 470. It's been discontinued for many years. It's so old I wouldn't even risk one on Ebay. There are quite a few on Amazon around the $150 range. I have no idea how well they work. But they maybe knock offs of the Hakko.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks a lot 🙏

I like the thinner solder diameters, I believe in the video I was using 0.031 diameter solder. It doesn't matter that much on these larger pins. The thinner solder does cost a bit more.

You can, and it’s much easier than replacing the entire joystick module. You just have to get the right potentiometers. The Alps and Favor Union potentiometers are not interchangeable. I go over a couple of ways of removing the potentiometers in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.html

Not that rare; I have had 2 of 6 controllers give problems. Though one was well over a year old.

No, no clicking sound. Did all your replacements come from the same place? Do they make the clicking sound unmounted and do you know what brand they are?

@@metalplasticelectronics354 im not talking about the analog stick replacements. the whole controller was replaced 4 times by sony. even with a new revision controller. take a look at reddit or youtube. this is the worst quality i have ever seen. dualshock 4 made no problems at all with sticks. i have even coil whine with dualsense

Oh I was thinking about the replacement joystick. I went and checked the one I replaced and it makes no noise. But I went back and checked the ones that hadn’t been replace. And they all make a small noise. So I would imagine that would mean the noise is coming from the joysticks they are using. I’ll have to look into a bit more.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 today I could check for the first time in a shop dual sense controller. One controller was fine, the other one had the same issue as mine. Sony's qa seems to be still bad

It may be who makes the joysticks. I've tried 2 alps and both make a sound. I've tried 3 Favor Union and none of those made a sound. But that's not a big trial.

Depends on where it’s broken at. If it’s still long enough to reach to the PC board, then just strip a bit of the insulation off the wire and solder it back. If it broke at the haptic motor, I don’t know if they can be gotten into without tearing them up. If the wire is still there, just too short. Will need a bit of small wire to extend it. Be best to have some small heat shrink tubing, but some electrical tape will work as well. Want to make sure where the wires are joined don’t short to anything. Good luck.

730 F works well.

The effort to make the potentiometers so cheap I think is really at the root of this problem. But I guess the failure rate is at something Sony is okay with.

Same here mines less than a year old and I only play after work and on my days off never had a issue with ps4 controllers

@@ethansiler I just bought isopropyl alcohol and I apply with a spray into the joystick (i didn't open the controller) and now it is fixed, I mean I suppose it is better opening the controller but sometimes it is not even necessary, just apply a good quantity :D

Yes it's awful. Same here, about 7 months and I have stick drift issues that can't be solved with cleaning. It seems like it's a very common problem. Really unimpressed with Sony's quality here👍

Is it the joystick shaft that is spinning or something broke loose in the knob? I doubt a glue would hold the joystick shaft so probably have to replace it.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 the knob came loose

I think you can by just the replacement knobs from Amazon. It will require pulling the PC board out of the controller. But you don't have to unsoldered anything.

It came from Amazon. Think the same thing is sold under a bunch of different brands. Just search pc board holder.

​@metalplasticelectronics354 just ordered a similar board holder, and a cheapish desoldering tool! Thanks for the video & link, I ordered extras. Got a controller to fix, I'll probably wind up grabbing extra controllers off marketplace too.

Take a look at the end of this video for most of the tools used, they all came from Amazon: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.htmlsi=NiM9ROtga82YcapT

Take a look at this video, it may help kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.html

You can cut apart the joystick module with some small side cutters and remove 1 pin at a time. Just be careful not to damage any other parts on the board. There’s some really small capacitors close to the joystick modules. If the hole still has solder in it. Put fresh solder on the pad and try again with the vacuum desolder tool or solder wick to clean the hole out. Can us a small stainless steel needle to push the melted solder out if all else fails.

The replacement is almost never dead center. Is it good enough to use is the thing. And I guess that depends on the user. I do check the resistance of the replacement joystick. If the center value is off by more than 20% I toss that one. In my batch of 20 joysticks I ordered, one was outside that range. If you want it to be aligned as accurately as the original, that’s going to be near impossible. Would have to measure the values of the original pots center offset. And then would have to hunt through probably hundreds of replacements to find a close enough match.

The new potentiometers are that much different from the original ones.

​Soldering is required. Take a look at this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdKomquUvq7SnWw.htmlsi=z3UYj2km5MZMXnh0

Never a good time for that. But do have a lot of choices in dealing with the problem now.

Did you just replace the potentiometers? If so make sure center is not 180 degrees out of alignment. They can fit two ways. If you replaced the entire thing double check and make sure a trace didn’t get messed up. Let me know how it goes.

Okay so I’ve notice I’ve replaced the potentiometer and the housing for it, so the green part with the tracks and the white but with the wipers, with the ones from a replacement from the wrong side of the controller (the white ones, not the ones with the pink tint in the centre of the wiper) could this be the issue?

So basically the Y axis potentiometer on the x axis.

the x and y are the same values so shouldn't make any difference. Did you remove the potentiometers from the joystice module?

Yes. I desoldered the 3 pronged green casing and removed and also the wipers inside the casing I removed and replaced with brand new ones.