this is so helpful for the common occurrence of when your 10-stop ND filter gets stuck on the screw thread of your lens and you have to go do a photography project at night

Finally, we found what instagram film filters are trying to emulate.

Pro-tip for doing exposure/development tests like this on 35mm film: you can shoot a few frames (I usually do six) then unmount the lens, open the shutter on bulb mode, and apply a little piece of scotch tape directly onto the film, making sure to burnish it so the edges are smooth. Then you can do another six shots at a different setting, put on more tape, and so on, until you finish the roll-then in the darkroom, you feel the tape with your fingers and cut the film directly through the tape. Very handy for all sorts of developing tests, you just have to make sure not to close the shutter on your fingers while you're applying the tape.

The idea of the poor film being pushed to ISO 204800 makes me very uneasy. Good job you absolute madman.

When you push it so far, you really want to take shots of people where they are still recognized as shapes but all the detail falls away. I once saw this gorgeous photograph of a nude in a book that was just grain on grain and it was like a sort of painting. All features just blended together into a mushy pile of human. It was great!

Lol "this project broke me." You got an image 8 stops past film speed and a couple of actual good images 7 stops past. Seems like you succeeded?

You keep calling these results bad or "failed" but i truly believe that your images came out amazing and well, artsy. Looks great and please keep pushing film to new heights its so cool to see!

3:12 I actually really like it. I bet you could make some really cool art by doing this to crank up the grain to the max, and then zooming in on different shapes and objects. Its like an impressionist painting with dots. I bet it could look cool with color grain too.

I agree with many of the other commentators in that I find these shots truly amazing. I love how the photos become more and more abstract as you pushed this film higher and higher. I never had the desire to shoot this film, but now I’ve just got to try pushing it 3 or more stops.

Thank you for your sacrifice and suffering so that others can learn. I think that as artists, there is something in all your results that may appeal to us for certain projects.

Perfect use case for the 204,800 is clouds. The narrow tonal range of those clouds is captured perfectly.

I did this with some concert photos in late 2019, and I developed mine in D76 for about half an hour. The photos will still come out cooked, but if you prevent reticulation, it prints SUPER well. I should scan them and send it your way.

When you say some of the frames were underexposed, you were accidentally under developing for the speed because of the developer exhaustion. I’m not sure what the working half life is for ddx, as I don’t use it, but it would be much better if you refreshed your chemistry after 15-20 minutes of development. Or even developed at 80f and changing chemistry every 10 minutes and develop for 20 minutes. This is super exciting to see people doing this! I hope try it again

Honestly, i loved every photo! I like that kind of gritty photography.

I for one think some of these look super cool and unique. Just because it's not behaving like normal dosen't mean it can't be cool in it's own regard.

I found this video by searching “delta 3200 at 51200” and clicked the second link, a Reddit link, which then linked to this video. Very cool.

you're an absolute mad man, and I hope you continue this work

I must try with delta 3200 in medium format. Maybe not the 102400.

It's great how much you experiment and how far you go. I love your videos because they go beyond "ordinary" photography. Thank you!

I messed up my last roll of b&w and it's awfully depressing to find out that you pushing to 200,000 got better results than me trying to do a two stop push on tmax 400.

Even with pushing development, there has to be something to develop. I think the thing here would be to find a scene where the "shadow" is in Zone 0 or 1 and the "highlight" is Zone 2 or 3 then you develop + 6 or +7 to get those highlights to become actual highlights. Considering that 3200 is already +2 development, shooting at 102,400 would keep the shadow at pure black (Zone 0) and then over-develop the highlights by 7 stops...so even if the "highlight" was Zone 1, that puts it up to Zone 8. So going to ISO 1,000,000 would be another ~2 1/3 stops and...well...you've run out of zones. I also agree with the below poster that you've probably developed the film to completion and there's nothing else to find. However, it might be worth the effort to stand develop a roll using the Rodinol 1:100 method at room temperature for an hour.

Oh come on! I absolutely love these results! Have definitively something to say! Great exercise mate. Hats off

Not stupid at all. For once, it's nice to see someone trying this instead of people predicting what would happen "if". I love big and fat grain and I wondered how pushing to an extreme would look like. And your trials show that the more you push the more the grain looks like digital noise. And that's why I hate digital cameras since I like to shoot in the dark with no flash. Up to 6400, it seems fine here but above, it's just not worth it. First the contrasts are taking over and then the "noise" becomes an issue. The experiment was really worth it. Thanks.

wait, but I like all of them. There is some unexplainable aesthetics to them.

kodak recommends using tmax developer for extreme pushes, I think you should try it 👀

I'm surprised you had anything left to pull out of the soup after an hour!! Holy crap man, you crazy!!!! It did bring a wry smile to my face though....... 3 thumbs up!!!

Cool experiment!

Nice Vid. Thx for the work. You can use a daylight development box like Agfa Rondinax. Those boxes got the possibility to cut the film in between, the unexposed Fflm stays in the roll, so you can set it back into the camera. Maybe the small amount of developer those boxes will operate with does limiting the experiment.

maaan , thts freakin crazy, love it

Wow, I think I only got it to 12,800 ISO back in the late 80's early 90's. I think that's when it first came out. Great work!

Heard that Xtol is good at pushing while maintaining shadow details with minimal grain on high-speed film. I guess it could give you more useful results from 25600 to 51200 ISO? It also has short development time compared to other developers (especially at 24 degree Celcius). It might save you from the agony of infinite inversion. Not sure if it would still apart at 102400 and 204800 ISO though.

Awesome work ... now do it again for Delta 3200 hah!

Really enjoyed that you went for it multiple times. That takes some guts. Thank you.

😂you nut! Thank you for doing these. I’m one of those “what if guys” and this answers a lot of those questions.

Super underrated channel

this is chaotic and i love it. thanks.

Dear god 35mm at 204800 the poor film had been through enough you did not have to try 3 times

Love the beer shot!!

This video was so awesome. I am VERY inspired.

I love this channel. It's like Jackass for analog nerds.

This is great fun. Keep up the good work

Sick.

All these sounds like good news to me. Can't wait to try myself =)

Nice video, looks like your film base is a bit fog, but you went to far 😅 👍

Wow, seven stops above real speed. Even with a film that's designed to be pushed, that's a lot. I've personally pushed 1990s vintage Tri-X 320 (did this in 2005, BTW) five stops, initially because I loaded some sheets backward in film holders (hence exposing through the antihalation layer); later, I did the same with similar age Tri-X 400, with similar results. I used a special developer I literally threw together from HC-110, Dektol, and some added alkali, and developed with constant agitation for fifteen minutes (just the HC-110 at the dilution I used would have developed to box speed in around three minutes). Pretty sure there was nothing more to be had from that Tri-X at EI 5000-6400. I may have to get a few rolls of P3200 or Delta 3200 and see what I can get in that Super Soup. BTW, the Ilford product *is* available in 120...

Thanks for sharing your investment

I believe you basically developed the film to completion, like you do with darkroom paper. I don't think you can do more. Ilford's got its delta 3200 in 120, which should be basically the same thing as p3200. You could try that.

Hi, I've read somewhere that you can increase sensitivity by pre-expose your film with a uniform light source. I mean by that, the silver christals inside your film would be already transforming in silver (I mean a realy small amount), because it work as a trigger. I've try that on b&w photo paper used as film, work great but realy delicate ! Also, you should try to have the shorter exposition time as possible to have a bigger amount of photons at the same time able to triggering ( it need several photon at the exact same time to react) silver christal in silver. It's well know in astro photography, longer you shoot longer you would have to shoot. This is not a linear process, for example when you expose your photo paper at F8.00 during 1 min you would've to do it during 2'15" for F11.00 ( for big enlargement). Plz apologize my poor technical english 😅 Good luck 🤞🤞

This is where bulk loading 4-5 exposures on a roll would be a good plan.

actually ay 204800 its looks like godspeed you black emperor album covers I really dig it

this reminds me of the /r/sizz community on reddit that is really into nuked images with tons of grain

We’ve found it, Analog jaypeg compression

3:15 Something is appealing to me about this image, maybe part of it is the grit suits a cityscape. I am curious if burning help the lower right corner. Can kind of start to understand. I pushed a roll of Ilford HP5 400 to 800 back in High School photography, came out a mess, nothing visible, which also bummed me as friends playing on stage. Makes me wonder why the teacher didn't know about 3200 film. Have my great aunt's Kodak 620 camera, now darn it, something else to put on my to do list. 😜

Would love to see you try again with different variations of dilution for developer

I like them very cool

Daidō Moriyama has made his living from that type of photograph.....

Thanks for this video! Very usefull (and nice ;-) ) I think you did everything in the best way, I don't know if is possibile to go so far Maybe I will do some test

Since we can’t get Tmax developer any time soon. Atleast in Europe. Would be nice to see a test of what developer this film reacts the best to.

You did it because yes

c h i r o p r a c t o r

Asides from my previous comment, I liked the third roll of 204,800 ISO push. It looked much better from the other 2 tries and… kinda workable?

The images have a lot of potential, especially if you use the looks to transform it from photography as a medium to observe an objective reality into photography as a medium to observe the subjective reality. As in making it like an art composition, like a drawing, semi figurative works made with experimental means to transmit something else than what's objectively observable.

I actually have another video idea for you. You should take one of those filmstocks famed for its dynamic range and try how far it can be overexposed while still looking alright. Something like HP5+ or maybe a consumer color negative like Fuji C200 would be interesting to see. I wonder how those would fare at ISO 25 lol.

There might be some reciprocity correction you have to apply as you get to far ISO extremes.

You are a goddamn menace

3:16 looks like a Godspeed You Black Emperor album cover

I wouldn't be so hard on myself if I were you. The results you got at 204k kind of look like the expired roll of HP5 I shot at 800 and dev'd at 1600. Now I'm wondering what I did so wrong so as to resemble a film pushed 8 stops....

Another good title for this video would have been “Pushin P3200”

This is disgusting. I love it.

Very interesting video. Nice to see what happens the more you push the development. A few weeks ago I tried pushing film for the very first time. Tri-X at ISO 6400. Mostly underexposed. Did stand development Rodinal 1+80 for 150 minutes with a very light aggitation (swiveling) every thirty minutes. I should perhaps have used a less diluted developer, perhaps in combination with a little more aggitation. Well, who knows unless you try :-)

I’d suggest trying this again with rodinal. Or at least using constant agitation. Cheers.

I would try to develop that 102400 with POTA.

Digital cameras been awful quiet since this dropped

Try it with Tri-x

I actually like the 204800

I’m just curious as to how you managed to shoot at 200,000+ iso values in seemingly broad daylight??

I kinda like 204800, looks sick

nice idea!

Those look tight

This is an 800 asa film, it is already pushed when you shoot it at 3200 asa.

just preflash, you'll get more info.

you'd better shoot this tests at home ) seriously. set your test scene and a tripod. then load your camera in the dark. just cut the exposed end of a film then pull some fresh one to cover the frame. after the shot you just go to your darkroom, cut exposed shot and advance to the next one. there will be like 20 test pieces from one 36exp roll.

I actually wonder if the high speed of this film only takes it so far and whether a dumpy film with a lot of silver would do better?

Now do the opposite and pull it at least 5/6 stops

A jaka była temperatura wywolywacza? Jaki wywolywacz?.... Przy tym iso , trzeba zwiększyć do 28°C temperature i dodać bromek potasu by uzyskać czyste biele.... Robiłem tak jakies 17 lat temu...

To see a Kulmbacher stine in this video 😂

Should try this one with boiling water, you could develop in 20 seconds

Whoa, that absolutely blows away my best push process of Kentmere 400 to 12800. I still win longest dev time though, at 1 hour 22 minutes in Xtol 1+3, because I'm greedy. Have you tried push processing color btw? I've done Fuji C200 at 6400, using a dev time of 3 minutes 41 seconds at 120 degrees fahrenheit.

This is so fun to watch 🤦🏾‍♂️

Would you give spur speed major a go?

RAD

But which shutter speed was to make photos on that unrealistic ISO?

After reviewing this- maybe stand developing rodinal 1:100 would've helped ?

Cool idea. how do you scan?

6:04 "One big piece of grain", you mean a rock?

This is brilliant lol

I wonder if you hit reciprocity failure of the film.

Try delta 3200 in 120. Amd push to 4,000,000 iso.

Okay okay. I want to take a part in these stupid (really good!) ideas by asking, what if you stand develop these? For example with rodinal 1+100 or something. Just let it stand a day or so. 😏 Just be careful with the bromide drag effect. I challenge you to push it to 1 million.

somebody buy this guy a densitometer