Working at heights, on a ladder, positioned on dirt makes for a tiring tense leg and back muscle day + added stress... which I'm sure you know! Dunno if it's been suggested or if you're interested, but why not build a platform/pallet for your tractor forks, to do elevated work? Position the tractor and height as needed, then use a straight ladder to mount/dismount. Much more stable and you'll cover more area than constantly re-positioning the ladder! Stay safe - excellent content!

Purlin....the word you're looking for is purlin.

I prefer the screws on the flat, only so that I can use a roof rake to remove snow without it catching on the screw heads. Thanks for this shed build series-it’s very informative and your shed is looking great!

Sandy, use an awl or a nail to punch a hole through the metal to start the screw. You can do the whole stack at once if you know where your screws will fall. That's the way RR buildings does it. Some guys say don't put it on the ridge so when you go to "shovel" snow off the roof, the roof rake doesn't catch the screws. I prefer on the ridge as it's stronger there.

I like your thoughts of using dirt for the ramp. You have an unlimited supply of it. Gravel on top if necessary.

You do nice work. I'd make your ramp from your available timber. White oak would be great. Just use screws, and when it rots. Replace the wood. After all, making lumber is what you do. 👍

Looking great Sandy! Keep on keeping on!

Glad to see Mobil is a sponsor! Soon you will be wearing a full NASCAR jumpsuit with patches! J/k, from one lefty to another

Making a pattern sheet on the metal roof for the screw pattern and pre drill all the sheets in a stack will make the install easier and faster.

Love your channel

GREAT job, Sandy !! I enjoy your video step-by-step build of your new building !!

Looking real good!!!!

Toy shed looks great!

awesome job and I di like your idea for the ramp

looking great well done

You're amazing Sandy and a very had wrkin man! Thanks for sharing a days work in 27 Miutes!!!! Stay safe!

Very good building

Looks very good Sandy, cant wait for the next video.

You made it look so easy! Thanks for the video, makes me feel a bit better about doing my shed roof tomorrow.

I like the concrete dirt/quarter-minus gravel ramp for two reasons: 1) If you leave a 1" gap, it isn't connected to the barn i.e no bugs no moisture. 2) It won't fall off, rot, get moved, lost or borrowed. Quarter-minus is roughly $8 a ton in New Brunswick, so cheaper than wooden ramps.

Great step-by-step build Sandy. Your videos are informative and motivating. Thanks

Awesome sign brother!

I'm not a fan of heights either. Good work,. Looks nice.

That's a really great looking equipment shed there, Sandy! I'll use it as inspiration to put up one of my own when lumber prices come back a little closer to Earth again.

Awesome job John!!

I work for a commercial builder and we don’t put it on the ridge strictly for the reason that if you over tighten your fastener you can make your sheet grow by collapsing the high rib. But we then also use a “stitcher” screw to lock the laps on the high rib.

Not sure what siding to put on that sweet building, no brainer for me, lap siding. Haven't seen you make that in awhile. Keep up the good work.

Looking good

I like your idea for a ramp, concrete and gravel, leave the gap away from the building, the shelter is looking good. Great work!

I don't care what anybody else says, I like it Sandy. Keep up the great work and the informative video's.

I would put a strip of metal roofing or flashing wrapping the front stringer then make the ramp totally of fill dirt. Two reasons not to screw on the ridge , it’s hard to keep vibrations from wearing the washers loose and if you aren’t really careful it can change the width the metal covers drastically causing the metal to be out of square along the length of the building, love your videos! Stay safe out there

Ahh the age old highs vs lows fastener debate. Had to weigh in here as I have heard plenty of different perspectives. In my opinion it depends on panel and fastener as to how I would do it. Technically highs can push down the rib which might try to increase the width slightly. Same can happen if you step on the highs while you screw in the panels. Many panels are different (gauge and style) and each tends to have it's own installation methods even depending on fastener type (nails vs screws). Nails with washers I would probably put them in the highs for that V groove tin. For the panels I work with (hi-rib) the screw pattern for Florida for wind loads is on both sides of every high at the top and bottom of the panel and next to the overlap and one side of the rib in the flats (not in the middle) for the middle parts of the panel. I tend to run screws into metal studs with metal roofing so I don't contend with wood shrinking or expanding and pushing out the fastener which might happen with nails (have seen this on a barn I torn down and salvaged the panels). All that said, I think the exposed fastener screws would work best if the washer was properly compressed in the flat of the panel on a flat surface providing the best seal but that does put it into the path of water which is supposedly what it was designed for. Verdict? Screws in flats next to ribs and don't overdrive it, nails in the highs since I don't trust them to stay sealed properly to the panel face in wood. That's just my opinion.

Great video! Started watchin your videos and ordered a hm130max got it together last weekend started sawin. Lovin it! Ordered it because of your videos. Thanks

One thing I known, there’s a down side to doing roofs. That is it gets slick and there’s no brakes until you land on the ground. Learned that the hard way. Bruises the ego abit LOL!!!

Very nice and going quite well. At 15:40, ''cleaning up'', I always use a carboard box, a barrel or, my favorite, my wheelbarrrow to collect all the wood pieces from cutting, saving me the ''cleaning up'' chore. Always waiting for your next video ;-)

I agree with your idea. No to lumber,

Great video. Coming from a guy who doesn't like hights himself you done a fine job. Love seeing your videos. Keep it up.

No I think you are spot on with putting it on the ridge, and well done I know how hard it is for some people with fear off heights, we were doing some tidying of tree limbs and one off the people who was on the chainsaw course, froze on the ladder, they had their eyes closed and white knuckled, god it was hard to convince them they were still on the first rung, it is all funny until some one gets hurt.

Looks great. Years ago when I did roofs with my Dad, we screwed on the ridge. Later on, I actually read the manufacturer’s recommendations and it stated that the steel should be secured in the valleys and if not it would void the warranty. I will be building my new sawmill shed over the summer and will be securing the steel in the valley. We have a lot of steel roofs in my area and they are secured both ways and seem to be fine either way. Keep up the good work Big Guy!

First of all, great to see such fluent craftmanship - something you see less and less these days. Secondly, regarding the ramp, I would personally make a well compacted rubble pad about 3-4 inches lower than the needed height, then build shuttering and pour a concrete pad on top. It will cost a bit more than dirt and wood, but makes cleaning snow much easier and in the long run would benefit in comfort and durability, I think. Another a bit more crazy idea would be to make a ramp that you can lift up on hinges, and which acts as a wall when upright to keep a bit more snow out of the building during wintertime. In any case, I'm sure whatever you decide to build it will suit your needs and if it doesn't, you'll find a way to fix it.

I had my sawmill at my dad's house and my ramp was made like you talked about. It lasted eight years until I moved it to my new house. The wood looked good considering I use poplar just a little aged

I have a problem with heights, always have. When I built my house, put up the main floor walls, the rafters, the roof sheathing, tar paper and tin by myself. By the time it was done, I was walking around on the roof with no problem. Not sure I would be quite as cocky today, but I can still get up there.

Awesome the shed is coming along nicely when I have the time I will mill some wood and do the same normally I would haul in a seacan into the woods but now the price of them went from 4k to 6k overnight here in New Brunswick and I have alot of wood... lol I like ur ramp idea easy and should work that's for sharing

I like the dirt ramp idea Sandy. Maybe use some 3/4 clear stone as the base and screenings on top. That'll give you some grip but it'll go like cement once the rain gets on it a bit. With the tractor it'd be real easy to move material and level it off. And with the 3/4 clear it'll drain away really well so no moisture against the shed floor.

I am intrigued by the charring the wood idea.

Sandy. I do not care for heights either. I think that if you park your tractor at the high end of the roof and raise your bucket up it will help you. It will make it look allot safer. I have watched you build 4 buildings so far so I hope you plan more. That bucket will help you to not see the ground. The lower end takes care of itself where you have that much foot room I agree with the previous message about punching the holes. I have seen this done and it has a nice result. Excellent video

that is a really cool sign ...heres what im thinking on the ramp...stapple some 30 pound felt to the face then secure a 2by12 face to that but burn it first on all sides then either back fill to it or poor concrete to it

Really great step by step job Sandy! Totally on board with you on the heights thing for sure! Not my cup of tea either 🥴. I like your ramp idea, perhaps with some good compacted lifts of 1/2” minus or maybe even 1/4” minus driveway crushed rock with some extra fines. Eventually, with enough compaction an driving over it basically I would think it would end up being quite solid, an like you said, do a retainer with some concrete blocking at the face of the building there for the material to lock into. Anyways I know I’m late to the game an you may have went another route with the ramps but just my few thoughts :) Cheers Sandy! Take care!

HEy sandy Hello from another fellow Ontarian. looking good!!!

Nice build. I built a similar shed, as a workshop. I built a ramp up to it, but be warned if you decide to build a ramp. When it rains the ramp gets slippery and after awhile even gets a little slimy. I plan to put 1" x 2" battens across it, like they use on floating docks, to give me some traction when it's wet.

You could try orange oil as a finish. It will also keep the bugs away.

Sandy you did that so fast! nice job on it . I have something like that but no floor I used 1/2" thick siding. I used two size's 4" wide & 6" wide with 1/2" gap between. But mine I put lumber in there.

Predrilling the steel on the ground if purlins are straight helps with the screwing process. I don't like heights either. Shed looks real good. Board and batten the ends and back. I am thinking just a wood ramp at the front. Not as much dirt would track in. Love your setup

Build a form an use quick Crete . the reason I suggest it is that a dirt ramp will settle an turn to mud in the spring and after the heavy rain.it don't have to be really thick maybe two inches since your not putting heavy equipment on it just your toy's

Hi Sandy from Mike down here in Utah My HM 130 Max You convinced Me to buy with all Your Awesome videos ships July 31st I ordered on April 6 so it’s been like waiting to be hung lol My wait is almost over. Sandy You build so fast withYour lumber after milling it You probably don’t need one but would You Ever consider building a solar kiln for Us Your followers so We could build one using Yours as the best model Thanks Sandy You Are Unbelievable Talented!!!!!!!

When it comes to metal roofing both are collect but you should do it both ways on the edge to keep them from being blown off in high winds but not a guarantee

The roof on the Hillbilly Hideout is higher off the ground then this equipment shed. One would think after doing a few roofs on outbuildings you would be less afraid of heights. Good to have your shed under roof now. I think attached metal roofing in the ridge is better. Water won't have a chance to leak through as easily as it would on the flat. As for a dirt ramp, you'll have to make sure you aren't using top soil, duff or any other soft material that doesn't compact well. Gravel (3/4" down to dust mixture) would likely be the best option.

Get some CopperGreen and treat your own ground contact lumber. You could also use used motor oil.

Could use lumber for ramp and instead of the boards touching the dirt directly, place a brick or flat concrete block or gravel under them. Or like the previous guy said, use the Shou Sugi Ban method. Or both! Charred ramp could look pretty cool.

I've seen electric sheers that go on a cordless drill they work really great a few hundred bucks but makes a clean cut and no sparks

Love your videos , For a ramp why not just make two angled side rails fastened together with cross members and fill the middle with gravel, as it packs down or settles you can always add more gravel.

Love your channel. Love your work. I might have a possible time saver for you. If you pre drill all the panels on the ground, inserting the screw into the ridge will be much safer for your fingers and your comfort level being on top will lessen. The time and effort it takes to drill these panels, will allow you to spend much less time on top of the roof. Another option, they make a drill attachment in the form of a bit with a sliding tube on it. The tube slides around the screw and holds it, allowing you to drive the screws one handed and with much less effort in trying to drive the screw while at the same time pushing down on the screw. Just a thought.

Shed looks nice. Tap the screw with the bottom of the driver (not pound, just tap) it sets the point without needing another tool. Your roof batton connection to the rafters is relatively weak compared to the rest of your structure depending on your wind loading where you are. However, being in the woods with less direct wind exposure it's probably fine. A good 3" construction screw through the batton into the rafter would help with the uplift forces. (Batton if laid flat, purlin if upright) As for the ramps, just fill with dirt and then place some 16" pavers on the incline. The pavers are cheap, stop erosion, don't track dit inside and are super easy to adjust/replace later depending on future needs.

Doing steel is nerve racking but it’s the best for roofing in the woods

I understand about falling off the roofing fell off two days after Christmas and shattered my heel needless to say I still not walking good and it was only 7 foot drop I figured out I cant do that know more good job on the roof I still have to finish mine lol

Wood ramp would be great for getting the slope right.

Would like to say 🐝 bees like metal roofing so to stop them from coming in the rib of the roofing use a product called backer rod. Masons use it to fill gaps. Use a silicone to hold it in place. Only a 3 inch piece is needed at top and bottom edge you can line it up with your perlins

You can get similar longevity of pressure treated wood using a burn finish, then lightly sand and follow up with an oil finish like boiled linseed oil or Tung oil.

Heights never did bother me as long as I had solid ground under my feet! lol

we call it skip sheeting but strapping is good enough

Love your videos Sandy. My question is do you saw any hardwood? oak or maple for example.

Nice video Sandy. I don’t like heights either. I’ve screwed roofing down both ways. I don’t think it really makes any difference.

If this were my equipment shed I would rather have longer steel or aluminum ramps (like some from Princess Auto) for moving vehicles in and out of the shed. Except for moving the ramps from bay to bay, it would be safer (especially given your seasonal inclement weather) and easier on your equipment. You might also consider pouring a concrete footer for the ramp to rest upon instead of the uneven ground in front of your shed. If the ramps have a tongue you can put a rail on the front of the shed to hook the ramp(s) securely to the shed so they stay in place when you are using them. As an extra bonus, I'm sure you will find other uses for ramps like these.

This is scary!

Sandy the way you fastened the metal sheets down Is the way you do it on the ridge - Because If it is fastened in the valleys it can start leaking at those points AND as the ramp goes your idea will work good - Just remember to pack down the dirt solid

For your ramp, use stone, layer of 2-3", then 1" and finally "pack" which isn't just clean crushed stone from dust to 1/2". The pack gets hard like concrete and is stable if it is on a good bed of stone. For the screws, ridge to reduce the chances of water infiltration but the washers need to sit flat and make a good seal with the tin.

Purlins for the roof.

and the dirt ramp will work, it has been done on many barns for hundreds of years

Screws on flat also cuts down on noise when it rains hails.

Not a fan of heights myself too. I was always told to put the screw on the ridge...water runs to the lower part where there is no holes from the screws. Ramp???... How about put it on hinges so it doubles as the door and swings down, drawbridge style. That way you only have ground contact for the short periods of time that the door is open.

The reason for putting your screws in the valleys on metal roofing is so that if/when you have to use a roof rake you can pull the snow off without getting hung up on the screws.

How does your green saw milled lumber stand up in the outdoors. Like on your tiny house and sawmill shed?

I have always put the screws in the flat section of the steel next to the ridges and have not had a leak. The reasoning is that the washers on the screws seal better on the flat, and reason two is that depending on how much pressure you put on the screws in a ridge you will change the width of the steel sheet throwing out your alignment. Just my thoughts.

On your nailgun check air inlet and put Teflon tape on it

The screws in the ridge makes a lot of sense to me. But my roofing installers did my house and garage in the flats. The rubber or neoprene washer will wear out before the metal. So i guess someone Will need to replae the screws before the whole roof.

THAT IS A VERY GOOD ROOF, BUT IN THE FUTURE, START THE METAL SHEETING FROM THE LOWER SIDE SO THAT THE NEXT SHEET RESTS ON TOP, THAT WAY THE WATER WHEN IT RAINS, IT WILL RUN OFF WITHOUT LEAKING , AND HOPEFULLY IT WILL NOT LEAK THROUGH,GOOD JOB THOUGH.

You can always use the Japanese method of burning your wood to preserve it

I was taught the screws or nails go on the ridge.

You should be afraid of heights over a couple feet...it happens fast and the hurt lasts! Do some research from the folks that make the product. On the ridge you can over torque as you can do on the flat too, but over torquing the ridge actually causes the overlap to open up slightly allowing water to defeat the lap when you don't use sealant on laps.

Screws on the flat part will caues more leaks in the long run , the would dries , Hot and freezing whether will loosen the screws metal expans and contracts You can hear it on a hot summer day , nails pop out , On the crest if there is inspection every 2-3 years The screws can be tighten if needed and leaks are next to nothing , If neglected the wind can rip the metal off

In the trade they call strapping Battens

If you could get Your hands on some black locust you could make a ramp with those would not have to worry about rot

i guess the main reason why not to put it on the ridge is that you need longer screws, but the ridge is better as water runs off it

Where did you find a left handed hammer ?

Go with a few bags of concrete, you look like you can handle a project like that. Should be very little mess on the floor from vehicles coming and going.

block and dirt will work and not rot over time.

Is there a structural or practical reason you didn’t use your framing gun on the straps?

Mill the wood, build the ramps then burn them!

Pre-drill the screw holes in the roofing sheets for easier install. Keep the sheets stacked up and then drill them out on the each location for the screws, then you just need the screw driver to get the sheets installed. Work smart, not harder.

Sandy how far due you space the strapping ?