Excellent to hear, so far they have been solid.

Yes indeed I plan to do one. I've been having snagging issues with my inverter communicating with the meter, so these videos have been delayed.

@@th3bmc Interesting I have a similar setup and I keep getting RS485 Failed, did you also experienced that issue? If so how did you solve it?

@@Wawyed Hi, yep sounds like the same issue, if the cables are in the meter correctly and it sometimes picks up a connection with the meter and it keeps dropping off then it's likely the exact same issue. I resolved mine with perseverance, bit of tape and some copper shavings in the female end (cable end) to bridge the metal not touching. have an RMA outstanding for a replacement unit.

@@th3bmc I've checked the connection at the meter side and I get 1.7V coming from the inverter so I'm not sure if it's the same issue...

Hi Colin109, I think this may have been how I operated it, but when you flick the switch they all come on and after a few seconds display their state of charge. so you should be able to tell roughly without connecting to an inverter.

Unfortunately the BMS information available on the inverter doesn't tell me that as it's a preset for pylontech on my inverter.

Video being published tomorrow on this

The inverter can only pull or push 65amps at 48v to and from the battery so it's a moot point.

@@th3bmc makes sense

I will be uploading a video on the whole system soon partly explaining the sourcing of parts, but generally you need to find a wholesalers or an electrician who has the access to buy parts.

Yes, it is stated in the manual they can be led on the bottom or vertically on the back but not any other orientation, if stacked on top of one another without a rack/cabinet you need the pylontech brackets sold separately.

This is a combination of Inverter used and battery so I'm gonna have to assume the inverter you have or have in mind is spec'd accordingly. The 2 x pylontech US5000 are happy to put out 160amp at 48v most of the time so once again if your inverter is happy with that then two of these will do the job easily with overhead. My brothers Fox system also is ok with it. if you want me to find out what batteries he has (model no) then please let me know.

@@th3bmc That is great news, not sure why they cannot state this generally in statistics and keep throwing things off. The guy I was speaking with suggested 3 but adding an extra for just under 20kwh total when on our most hungriest month used when averaged out 28kw a day means we would be golden (Since we can use machine and dryer during day when generating when sun is out, save all the washing and whatnot for that day) More often than not we average 15-20kw so this is great. I appreciate you getting back to me, the chap I was speaking with was going to use the Solis 5kw inverter "1xRHI-5K-48ES-5G" and 3x US5000 which I would bump up to 4.

@@cnjelly7876 Yeah just checked the Solis datasheet on that inverter it will do 5kw max from a battery the 4.6kw version also can do 5kw from a battery which is always fun to know. If you have a fair bit of usage which sounds like you do in terms of kWh then yeah I'd probably go for 4 x US5000, I'm thinking of upping mine to 3 units because my small 2.9kWh peak solar is fully charging my system now and if the car isn't home then the potential rest doesn't get generated.

@@th3bmc Yeah I wanted to go overkill on a system for a bit of future proofing, wanted 5.2kw minimum so even on winter days I will get as much as possible put into the batteries, what REALLY angers me is finding any real world data on the internet is impossible, I had to knock on the door of the guy at top of street since I saw they had solar panels up (Honestly only seen 3 houses with solar panels in my town personally, 1 was rented property so no go there, second was installed but waiting to be connected and third was guy up the street) all I wanted to know is on cloudy day how much would generated and all I could find was averages for the month or averages in general. All I needed was a picture of cloudy sky and the power coming in from app on phone, guy at top of street has a 2.76kw system 4 south facing and 3 west facing panels and on a cloudy day in the afternoon with absolutely no sky visible he was puling in ~360w and what doesnt get charged can be done so later on octopus (uk supplier) cheapie rate between 00:30 and 04:30 iirc. I wanted at least panels up by now already but trying to find suitable battery to do it all in one was a pain in the ass as you only have to pay VAT on batteries if you buy them only >

Yeah 5.2kw sounds sensible to me for a 5kw inverter maybe even less panels like 4.5kw unless you plan to export, I have 3.6kw inverter and wish I went larger now, I make it work but when and if I have kids running around they won't care to keep electrical loads under 3kw total in the evenings or winter days. It's hard for output info because it's so subjective to give advice based on location, panels used and angle ect.. Opensolar.com gives good insights into generation, you have to create an account but its free.

Keto 100amp

​@The BMC this should be 250a? Each battery has a max of 100a output so in parallel that's 200a, times that by 1.25 is a 250a fuse. Plus you should also upgrade your +ve and -ve cable size to handle two batteries? The one supplied by pylongtech is too small for two batteries

They go off if there is no load on the battery or no charge going into them. So what you described is normal.

@@th3bmc thanks yes, panic over, I watched a few other videos and realised that once all the lights have come on, they then go off and the run light flashes intermittently - also getting 49+V at the main terminals so all good (just need some long leads now!)

Have you found a max draw from batteries before it will pull from grid and battery, I am trying to figure out what continuous (non peak 15m/15s loads) power can be drawn from it. Some batteries clearly state 4kw/5kw/7kw/11kw etc etc but I cant seem to find a straight answer on like 90% minimum of the batteries ive looked at they are mostly conflicting info depending on site and switch between kw and amps

@@cnjelly7876 having watched the behaviour of the US5000 over the last few months, the BMS behaves a bit differently from earlier models - particularly with regards to temperature - there seem to be more bands. However, by default when it's "happy" it will report 80A C/D to the inverter - however, it will only charge for short periods at 50-60A and then drop to 20A as it gets too hot (I think) - conversely I've never seen my 3kW inverter go above 2.5kW so I think the usual limit of 0.5C applies at 50A for a single pack and it never tries to pull more though that may be the inverter - I have been tempted to add another US2000 or even another 5000 if the prices keep dropping, but the 5000 seems to work pretty well as single pack...

@@cnjelly787680amps continuous it does say on the data sheet. OP has two which has given him a combined continuous of 160amps

+1 This

Puede entender el por que. Yo tampoco lo haría.

That's a fair question, there are a few reasons, Depth of discharge, amount of charge cycles (granted it would be cheaper to replace multiple times but then there is environmental impact and waste), low Temperature effect's, The inverter supports lead acid but does put many 'scary' warnings of *experts only* all over the manual about lead acid and finally you have to buy a separate BMS and wire it up manually if you want to monitor. With these packs it's more plug and play or set and leave. *Also warranty, I had to check to see what the longest warranty I could find on a lead acid leisure battery and 5 years appears to be the max but 'Deep or Over Cycling' and 'Wear and Tear' is not covered so not worth the paper it's written on.

Typically you use half of the lead acid battery capacity, so your supposed 6,5kwh battery is essential a 3,25kwh battery, the price for the batteries you're suggesting are not AGM or gel type batteries, or even deep cycle ones, probably more like ordinary car or light truck batteries, these would be even more restricted in the amount of power you can safely extract from then while still have a decent life expectancy. Lead is dead, lithium or LiFePo4 are gonna be cheaper in the long run, you can even assemble loose cells yourself with a BMS to regulate it and put a nifty DIY rig together for less than half the price of the pylontechs, can't imagine people are still doing lead acids as it is such a ancient technology.