Thank you for watching as well as the kind words. I was missing a 702 for the 702/704/1705 trifecta. Not anymore! Lol 😆

@@76vette 👍

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mtV0bNSqq9Pae2g.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sJakmbF8ksrNdp8.html

You are welcome. Glad to help. 😊👍🏻

I think this video may help clarify how the springs are installed. 😊👍🏻 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hraAermTpqybmGw.html

From the 1981 Shop Manual… (I think they’re all pretty much the same) “CARBURETOR MOUNTING TORQUE When torquing carburetor after removal, overhaul, replacement or when installing a new heat insulator, torque mounting bolts, in a clockwise direction, to 16 N•m (144 in. Ibs.). When retorquing carburetor at recommended maintenance intervals, check in a clockwise direction. If less than 7 N-m (60 in. Ibs., retorque to 11 N.m (96 in. Ibs.); if greater than 7 N•m (60 in. Ibs.), do not retorque.” As far as the air horn, it just says to “tighten all screws evenly and securely using the screw tightening sequence” starting with the two countersunk screws inside the choke Venturi, followed by the inner secondary screws all the way to the back of the carb, then two outer middle, then two outer rear, then front screws. This information is why I sound like a broken record when I say that you MUST have as many books as possible if you’re going to wrench on these cars. 😊👍🏻

The distributor vacuum advance uses one vac line that needs to be connected to a ported vac port usually located at the front of the carburetor body. If there are unused carb vacuum ports (ported or manifold), you want to plug those properly. Good luck and Thank You for watching! 😊👍🏻

I did not remove or replace the idle tubes. However, I cleaned them as much as possible using wire strands as shown in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/neCPZLWC1Znbp2g.html They can be removed, of course, if necessary, and there are several videos available that show that approach, which basically involves a coarse-thread screw to bite into the soft metal so you can pull the tubes out. I think running the right gauge wire through them and plenty of carb cleaner can be just as effective. Good luck with your rebuild and I hope you’re happy with the results. And thank you so much for watching! 😊👍🏻

@@76vette problem is that I have a '68 vette 327/300 with a quadrajet that is an old/unknown rebuild and not the exact fit for my application (7028213 vs 7028207 from spec). I already got some problems like lean idle and poor response to adjusting screws, so since now it is flooding due to worn gaskets (I live in EU and here we have mandatory ethanol) I'm taking the occasion to change the idle tubes with a .040 pair to see if it can run better. I knowed the coarse-thread screw method but, since I want to do less damage possible to the old ones, I was wondering if there was a less aggressive way

@MetalGarage Unfortunately, the only method I know of is to use a screw to pull them out. The only real damage would be some scarring inside which can be pretty much eliminated by running a micro drill bit through the jet. This kit here is almost identical to the one I have and it may be a good investment for you. amzn.to/3Ua8nt0 Also, if you are planning on replacing the original tubes then any potential “damage” to them should not be a concern, unless you are planning to reuse them at some point. Just a thought.

@@76vette I would like to save the old ones just in case the new .040 will run too rich. I will be careful.Thanks!

Also make sure your carb has the right jets, metering rods, and idle mixture screws. The guys at quadrajetpower.com will sell you a complete rebuild kit specifically calibrated for your application. Good luck! 😊👍🏻