The comment above mentions a similar scenario. I appreciate you looking out for me, and in a machine shop environment I can agree that a glove can be a liability. I'm trying to think of an instance where I was injured while wearing a glove and only the machine shop comes to mind. Usually if you're going to get hurt doing torsion springs, I'd say that the winding bars would either drop out or try to crush your hand or collar bone. Maybe the ladder has leaves under the legs and it moves or wants to fall.. Maybe the cone cracks while winding the spring.. Also I'm sure it's obvious, but don't put your face under the bar as you wind. Now if you want to hear about accidents or things I've seen, I can surely go into that. I have been injured, mostly cut or bruised.. a burn here or there... I've worked on garage doors since maybe 2014, Although no glove related incidents come to mind. If you build them all with the same process then you figure out which steps go better with and without gloves. Mills, drill press, routers... Spinning things definitely grab gloves.. Grinding and winding ehhh not so much

Those are little spirngs😭

@@garageDoorFUBARmanual Right, garage door springs are super dangerous but they do run out of energy - a lathe doesn't unless you emergency stop it.

They both do. Gravity brings them down slowly because of the springs too.

4 1/4 turns for each foot of garage door height. With the garage door disconnected from opener you should be able to raise the door by hand and it stay half way up. If not add or remove 1/4 turns until it does. A 7 foot door should be about 28 1/4 turns.

@larry leach OK thanks. I may have a different problem then...I disconnected the manual release pull cord but the door won't budge. It is an insulated 7 ft door.

@@danfriesen4417broken spring

One complete turn for every foot of height

​@@larryleach6476how do you know if 28 1/4 turns is what it needs? Why not less or more than that?

Saferatch E-Z Ratch is much more effective.

@@gingerboyy121 the sure winder is way better takes the potential shoulder injury out of the equation. Maybe for small residential spring but I'm working on big commercial size torsion springs and for the very large duplex springs the brute winder is even better!

Hrm... maybe try amarr if they're in Canada.. I'm not sure

You clearly have no clue what you’re talking about. Nobody in the industry would call it a pole, it’s a shaft and it’s totally fine.

@@samthekashmantell that imposter! 😂

Haha, strippers have poles, men have SHAFTS, lmao!! Point made.

And if it did the spring would still be tightened . So..

Yapper

@An-American Door tech for overhead for many years. The shaft needed to be changed out because it's no longer structural sound. This video will get people hurt. Try to tighten the set screws and it slip. Danger.

Those 262s though.. Woo

About 4 (1/4 turns) for each foot of door height. 7 foot tall door = about 28 (1/4 turns). If the garage rises up by itself take turns off until it doesnt.

@@larryleach6476 thanks but that wasn’t what I meant. I’ve come across springs hard up against a ceiling. Do you use bent rods?

@Viral Clown Hmm! Maybe that was for someone else. I've seen that before. What the person did is start with the winding bar in the bottom hole facing down and go up 1/4 turn then put winding bar in bottom and repeat that. Hope that helps.

@@Viralclownif you don’t have room to turn the bars the door really never should’ve been installed in the first place. No great solution other than a $600 wrench that only winds springs.

⁠even with the shaft up against the ceiling you should be able to get a bar in one of the holes and you keep holding it and go around till you get get to another hole. If that won’t work try shorter bars just remember there is probably a lot of pressure so hold on tight don’t let them just zip around because it can and will throw a bar out and hurt you. That’s why you should never stand right in front of the holes the bars go into. Stand off to the side so that your face and body is not in the path. I’m definitely not an expert but if you are not sure or your not familiar with this type of work, I would get someone who is. I say that because it could be dangerous if you are not careful. I’ve done a few when I really didn’t know anything about them but I had a boss that sent me up standing on a pallet on a forklift. So not only did I have to lose my fear of heights but also had to get the job done. So it can be done by a capable person but I wouldn’t recommend a pencil pusher to do this job. Good luck.

Hrm.. didn't think of that Lol send it brother!

Crazy that there is a website where if you search stuff you’ll find an answer…

​@@MoparGuy1625 thats called a search engine, not a website. So, nice job trying to be a dick and making yourself look like a complete fucktard.

42 quarter turns

In the field those are the best gloves imo for mechanical as you can feel stuff and they let you be articulate. I also worked in a machine shop where I could agree as I almost never wore gloves. They can get stuck in machinery. When I did carpentry I would usually wear different gloves for demo. I'd say every situation calls for something specific.

@garageDoorFUBARmanual I was thinking along the lines of your glove not letting go of that bar when it was supposed to. Like switching hands, and it accidentally catching the bar. Those MECHANICS tru-fit gloves, made with leather and fabric, like 24.99$ online, are awesome. Im a machinist, and those are the only gloves I trust wearing around equipment. There's no bulgy spots at all. On the fingers, on the palm, on the side of the glove, they just fit like they should, and the dexterity is next level. Just sharing and have a fantastic day!

Oohh.. If I wear "baggy" or ripped gloves then I've had it grab the bar. Good call. While I do prefer the super tight grease monkey ones, I do also have a pair of the mechanix gloves that are leather and synthetic. They are decent and I'll break them out if I have to jamb my hand into a sharp spot. I also have a pair of snap on gloves which looked really cool, but ultimately the sewn on padding on the fingers kind of rip at the stitching. If a glove fits well I'll usually wear them out until the fingertips are disintegrated. Also, the gloves I wear only have a thin layer of grip on them. The super grippy ones are not my cup of tea. I'm starting to ramble away from your comment so I'll get back to work here.. Anyway, I like your gloves too and I see where you're coming from.

Thank you for telling me!! Good old KZfaq cramping my style

I have an age restriction on the video... but then again most of my videos do.... silly question but is it an age restriction?

@@garageDoorFUBARmanual no, it says that it maybe too inappropriate for some viewers

Every DIY book/magazine I read (pre-internet) said don't do this yourself, you'll maim or kill yourself. I was sweating bullets when I replaced them myself.

@jcadult101 I agree. Despite the misspoken part and all the comments, I've installed and tuned garage doors for almost ten years. During the filming of this video I was licensed and insured for $2mil. I do however respect that you did it yourself. I don't show everything because this channel is entertainment and I condone the other viewers to seek professional assistance. But for you, good job!