Several years ago, there was a Farrell cat problem in our neighborhood. I borrowed a trap exactly like this and experienced this exact problem. My solution was to use wire to secure the tin to the cage... which worked extremely well. I also put down a small piece of burlap bag just prior to the trigger pan, so they wouldn't feel the cage. These cats were smart.. I even had to put a heavy black bag over the trap to hide the cages' wire profile. After the modifications, I started to remove over a dozen farrell cats.

Great video and tip sir! I run an extensive 4-month predator mgmt contract with several hundred sets of which 85 are cages. For efficiency, time and to keep my bait dry, I use white 4 oz. plastic ointment jars from the drugstore. I drill holes in the lid and lay sideways to keep moisture out. Bait needs to stay dry so as not to rot so I use dry dog and cat food with corn and sprayed with Anise oil or caramel oil and water. Shellfish oil and water spray and same mix is the other choice as 4 months is a long period and I compete with mother natures menu such as frogs and snails. If I had time I would wire it to the back and top of the cage.

Great tip my friend! Thank you for sharing!

Great TIP Simple but effective

That is one reason to cable (zip-tie) the lid to the trap and put chicken wire in the trap so they can't reach in. Also stake the trap to the ground in each corner

Don't forget to put a piece of rebar/dowel in front of the trigger plate. They have to step over it to trigger the trap. First time I tried it got one. Thanks good info.👍

I have two of these traps and agree they are more expensive than they should be. Although I've trapped over 20 raccoons and they are both still working. Also raccoons easily pull the handles in with them and bend them to the point that they are not useful any more in carrying the trap. No problem when the trap is empty but with a full trap, especially if the racoon is aggressive, then I carry it with one hand up by the door and use a piece of curved metal, usually my nail remover, to hook at the back to keep my gloved fingers away the raccoon. Also one of my first captures was at midnight and it had started to rain. While I was going to kill the raccoon in the morning, I didn't want it sitting in the rain all night. So I threw a tarp over the trap. BAD IDEA. Came out the next morning and the entire tarp had been shredded and pulled into the trap with the raccoon. So I had a tarp full with a grown raccoon and a shredded blue tarp. It's been three years and I've still finding small shreds of that tarp in my yard. Also they will tear the earth underneath so never put the trap on your lawn. Or put something like shed metal underneath. I have some small pieces of metal roofing that fit the trap well so I often put the trap on that.

Trapping in the suburb environment some coons have dug under the trap and remove the bait even with rocks on the trap . I hope the tee rod works . If you must put bait in the trap place a dowl or some horizontal barrier about three inches high before the trip pan to make the coon reach over it to get the bait . Thank you for the videos I have learned a lot .

I added hardware cloth to the bait end of the cage to prevent the raccoon from reaching in. And you are right about losing the bait with every raccoon captured. Since I trap them for nuisance issues, I’ve gone to a leg hold trap. It works every time. I’ve already lost too many chickens

I caught a raccoon in a regular size live trap and that somehow got a hold of the handle and unfolded the wire turns holding it to the cage.. I would have trouble doing that with a pair of pliers

I built a wooden box to go over the back and tie the bait to the back so it won’t slide, works great but this is a neat idea too

Cut a small hole in top of sardine can. Wire to back of trap wall. Never had a miss. The need to extend too far forward. But this is good advice for sure.

I use cages in the yard with Peanut butter sandwich in it for bait works pretty good .DPs every were else

Cat food is a good bait too

I've had luck with a piece of rebar horizontally in front of the trip pan, so it forces them to climb over.

Hi, first to say that I really enjoy your videos. Now maybe you can help me with a situation that I have. I trap in Quebec, and during the winter months, my cubbies have tendencies of freezing to the ground. Would you or anyone on here that would have an idea how to overcome that problem. Thank you

Try Comstock traps in ny the best cage trap built

I always used Ritz crackers for coons. Occasionally I’d get a skunk. 🦨 🤢🤢🤢