It works great. I'd not change a thing.

LugNuts thank you. Walls are all done now. All diy slat wall walls jand made. So Tons more ply up these days! Literally tons and tons and tons more lol!!

Its perfect. No changes. Costs me about $100 a month. I insulated well.

​@@bloomingtonmikewahoo!!!

JB H. Check ebay for latest links. Bought mine there from an authorized reseller!

My pumps have never sweat. Working great today as when I built it. That cover is waterproof/resistant too btw.

I have the same pump and instructions clearly state that it can be installed the way Mike installed it so should be fine. I do see however where your concern is coming from Ivan and is a good point.

Jim Rr thank you

Costs me about $100 a month. I love it.

Just buy them off the shelf at menards below the panel.

The vlave allows mixing. Flow rates are different because of head pressure and water volume. Primary mixes all the the time and lowers the delta T entering the boiler.

@@bloomingtonmike he likely asked because it is in full off position, no mixing.. I was questioning too as I was going to run a 1 pump for simple 2 zone twin 150' runs in small addition.. and saw no need for one but do see them used all the time.. my manifolds for a 2 run were just over $100.. and both in and out have air purge, wondering if enough or need micro on top of expansion tank... want to be able to add to system and put pex under floor in future, back says next year, so 1 side of house on electric baseboard until then or cranking up addition and hoping can double heated space..

@@craiggerlach5548 its set at 45° in use.

@@bloomingtonmike HI Mike, old thread and comment but thought I would mention this in case others like me are designing the system presently, and found this info and your video very helpful. I did notice however that you installed your (secondary pump) on the left side of the mixing valve. This means your primary (boiler pump) and secondary (System Pump) are on the same circuit. Referring to the Stiebel Eltron system (Hydroshark), you can see the System pump is installed on the right side of the mixing valve. This allows the primary "boiler loop" and the secondary "emitter loop" (pex loop) to be hydraulically separated from each other. This allows the flow rates of each circuit to be set independently for optimum performance. Not sure if putting the pump to the left side of the mixing valve (as you did)does the same. Were you told differently or have any comments on this? Thank you again for great video and explanations.

@@Triggerman2505 I had the same question as I did not understand the need for a second pump - I have seen several systems that only use one pump. Both seem to work. I contacted Hydro-Shark and asked the question. Here is the response: "The reason for a 2-pump setup is to create hydraulic separation using the closely spaced tee. This allows heat to be transferred back into the boiler while also providing heat to the floor. This creates a far more efficient setup as the return temps into the boiler are warmer allowing for the boiler itself to work more efficiently. Using a single pump system certainly works but the main problem is by the time the heat is transferred into the floor and returning back into the boiler it has significantly dropped temperature making the boiler have to work harder to increase the temperature." Note: This is what Mike was talking about in a previous reply when he referred to Delta T. If anyone doesn't want to bother going the DIY route and just getting the pre-built panel - the folks from Hydro-Shark were really helpful.

@@bloomingtonmike is that really necessary? I dont know the answer. I DO know in electricity if one connected section of wiring has a higher resistance.... it wont get power. I hope someone else weighs in on this.

You have to use a relief valve set at 30 psi, NOT a standard domestic water heater valve.

It's not fed with city water - it's fed with glycol from a bucket or pail with a pump on first fill or during a flush.

Ruben R. Roman 1:57 states 1/2” pex

I did 50/50. Math was easy. Its midwest. We get some sub zeros F some days but lots of 20 - 10 degree and lower days.

Boiler and panel $800 and pex and manifold was $1k.

wont work on heat pump mode for many reasons. I tried it.

A heat pump water heater probably can't supply enough BTU to support an infloor system.

I do, an in floor temperature probe but it is not needed. Ultimately you just care what the room temp is. If its not warm enough, set the thermostat so it still tuns on the pump.

@@bloomingtonmike so should i get just a thermostat connected to the switching relay ,, without some probe to the floor?

@@ngplumbing8948 up to you if you want to know the floor temp , the cables are only about 15' long though. The temp in your room is all that matters, if not warm enough you want it to keep running. Btw, -8 outside and 40mph wind and 40 degree F in the shop.

I built it myself. Less than $800 total.

Plus $1000 in a pex manifold kit.

@@bloomingtonmike what do you mean? $1800 total?

@@gschaaf713 i spent $1800 on my pex, manifold, panel parts, and boiler to heat my shed. I don't understand your question honestly. Quotes to do this were 8 grand from folks to install this for me. Even purchasing lesser panels completely built was much more expensive.

@@bloomingtonmike my point was not to say the build was expensive. i was confused about the total cost because you answered initially with 800 and then said plus 1000 in a pex manifold kit. why wouldnt you include the cost of the pex manifold kin in your initial response? i wasnt sure if you were saying the total cost was 1000 or 1800. thats a great price for a system like that. thanks for sharing.

The primary loop virculates faster than loop going through lines. Creates a warmer path to dump.line wster into as it enters boiler. Reduces how hard the boiler has to work and reduces amperage boiler pulls at the minimal cost of running second pump. So less eear and tear, cheaper, and lower delta change in temp difference. Also provides a backup solurion if sized correctly.

This decision looks strange. I think the seller came up with this scheme in order to sell more goods. This issue of reducing the load can be solved in a completely different way. As I understand it, the valve that is located on the double tee is always closed. I mean, it's not needed. And money has been paid for it. In this order, the arrangement of parts leads to a large cost of money. Thank you for the answer.

@@MasterVeard it is a mixing valve and not closed. It is set at 45 degree during use. It is only clised during filling.

@@bloomingtonmike Thank you!

in video he comments pressure was around 23# at the time for call for heat...

I pressurized to 15psi and it climbs to about 23 when running.

Its self contained. No feed. Only connect to a source (bucket of glycol and water) during flushing.

CJ Timmons copied it from a Menards display. No BOM.

This is the cheapest tankless water heater you can buy, it is not a boiler. BTU requirements of the building dictate the size of the boiler needed to heat it. 1kw equals 3412 BTU so if you need 34120 BTU for your space, you need 10kw worth of boiler and will use 10kw worth of electric. Less power equals less heat

@@Darnellp87 there are cheaper units that only require 1 40A fuse... this unit required 3 fuses... poster could try smaller unit to see if can keep up with demand, once slab at temp and if insulated properly a smaller unit may work for his purposes...

there are also low voltage electric units that are simply wires installed under flooring, typically under tile and inside of mortar that my friends are using, claims cost couple bucks a month to operate..

@@craiggerlach5548 no. The BTU demand of the space dictates the necessary electrical input. This size building could not be heated with a boiler only requiring a 40A fuse. Same rule applies to your liar friends using resistance cables at "a couple bucks". There is no way to get more output from electric resistance heat emitters than goes in.

@@Darnellp87 the person who asked question just wanted to heat a bathroom floor, not a building though...

At the time $800. Price is up these days. Pumps are 3x the $100 price I paid. You need to look up current prices for an accurate idea.

Go with what fuel is cheapest in your area. Electric was my choice as the electric boiler was cheaper and this is a shop not house. Ideally I'd go gas. Natural gas is cheaper to run monthly. Electric is more efficient boiler wise but you are taking a loss doing transfer to plate so you will want the best cost you can get at the end of the month.

@@bloomingtonmike I have gas at my current house, but its not available where we are building the new house. Our options are propane, oil, or electric. Electricity is outrageous in our area. My electric bill this month was $500+. I'm leaning toward propane.

@@randomstuffwithjoe solar may be tough as the boilers are quite taxing at full load. This one is three 220v single phase 40amp circuits. Does not draw that all the time but do a load calc with your poco and solar engineer. Id do propane personally. Best advice ? Insulate like crazy!

If you can run a nat. gas heater do that. Its not cheap to run this one. Plus three 40 amp circuits is pretty large and the wire to run to them is not cheap either. That being said it works great now that I have wall and ceiling insulation. Make sure you r value is high!

I'd go with a heat pump "chiller"over a boiler - 1/3 the energy for heating. Chiltrix makes an air source one I'm installin for my house.

Great. Thanks for the reply. R value will be really high and a really tight building envelope with the SIPs structure. I live in PA, not crazy cold winters, but cold enough. I can't get natural gas, but propane is certaintly an option. I was just trying to avoid using an actual water boiler since radiant doesn't need super hot water.

Just a reg guy and I built this in my shop. Nothing really to train on.

Clint Eastwood it enters just below upper pump and exits just above it. Thats only for filling and purging the initial fill or for any flushing. It is a sealed pressurized setup and does not need a supply line during normal use. It does not loose water/glycol.

bloomingtonmike Thanks man that's a real nice system you got there. Greeting from Saint Paul.

Dont use one then.