Best

Its best to use tubing barbs from dubro and solder them on them onto the ends of your brass . That way your tubing can not pull off. even with saftey wire, your tubing can eventually fall off. Especially inside the tank.

Can I ask a question ? I have got a vintage can of B.P. Air Speed , National Champion , Model Engine 7 Fuel . I cannot find a similar can anywhere ~ have you ever seen or heard of one & do you have any idea on it's value. It is in very good condition but I believe very old . Any help would be greatly appreciated , as I'm a pensioner and need to sell this to help us out .

Doing my yearly tank rebuilds now and have never used the 3 piping system.

The fuel tube to the klunk is too stiff in this video, this tube he using inside the tank is ok for tubing to, and from the tank, but not inside.. The klunk tubing must be flexible, made of special rubber to use as a klunkhose...

Any reason not to use zip ties to secure the tygon to the brass tube?

What brand fuel tank is that on the video? I have been looking for one like that.

Thank you so much. It's very helpful. Pelase full tutorian JC30EVO

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Why is the vent tube sitting on top of the tank? Shouldn't' it hangout side the aircraft so you know when the tank is full?

This is the old way of doing it ,the 2 line systems are better can fill and empty tank with t in clunk line

This is method of plumbing is not really good. 1st at the end of a flying session you’ll be left with some gas in the tank, and you can’t take it out. 2nd the bent overflow tube, will be too low to allow a full tank fill. My plumbing method involves a) 2nd clunked lines, used to fill and drain out residential fuel, that’s why the electric pump can run in reverse 😎 b) a short overfill tube bent about 30 deg up with a short piece of flexible tubing, attached to the inner side, that will touch and bend at the upper tank wall, make sure is not pinched close by the bend, this will ensure the tank is full to the brim, before it overflows c) just use simple cable tie on the tygon tubing to secure them to the metal barbs, easy, cheap and much tighter than any clamp on the market, especially on tygon that’s much harder than silicone tubing.

This is not the best way, look at alternative systems.

mas que erros cressos este individuo não percebe nada de aeromodelismo

Wow, and this is a paid channel? Ok as noted by another poster I will list what is wrong here rather then just bitch.... First off, you want your clunk free to move up and down, NOT front to back (when you install your tank in the plane a very very slight incline on the front of the tank will allow all fuel to be used,) by allowing the clunk to reach forward you risk the clunk getting stuck forward and not getting fuel. Also the way he did the vent is wrong, while he does put a high loop which is good the way he is setting the vent tube has 2 issues, one it can slide out under pressure (there is nothing holding it back) granted this is not likely to happen, but if the stopper loosens due to engine vibrations...... also he will not be able to fill that tank higher then maybe halfway (or whatever level he put the vent tube at on the INSIDE of the tank, as the tank fills,,,fuel will push out the vent, yes a high loop makes it harder to push fuel out, but trust me I've seen it happen, he should have used a tubing bender on the inside to bend the vent line so it is almost touching the top of the tank (but not actually touching) this allows you to use all the fuel. I like that he is using safety wire, but for the best fit, solder on barbs will pretty much guarantee the lines will never pop off. Sorry, I vote for a redo...

why put time into a video of this caliber if you are going to half-ass the video.... This is not the proper way to plumb an rc airplane fuel tank. If you are going to support the rc community, give ALL useable and correct information please or don't do it at all.If I set up my fuel tank like you said my clunk would fall off in my tank and you would have inevitably set me up for a unnecessary dead stick landing.