Correction: Raed is from Germany, not Austria. Sorry guys. The Zaed was certified in Austria, hence the labeling.

Great review. Use his discount code in his description on anything we got so we can support what he is doing. We do stock both the Zaed and the Ohm2.

Dear Mr. Mullet, You have no idea how happy it makes me to see my brainchild being used by a fellow climber at the other end of the planet. This is amazing :) Some minor notes from my side: In general ZÆD is intended to be used in sports climbs with good protection, like modern sports crags or climbing gyms. I can truly understand that a second bolt at 7m height doesn't invite for a device that doesn't add friction before that second bolt. That style of bolting asks for some very special type of climbers. Pretty bold! Level 3 is meant for either very large weight differences or overhanging climbs where the first bolt often offers limited options for the device to flip upwards, since there's steep rock in the way. Of course it can also be used for toprope climbs. ZÆD was also designed to only engage when the rope strand towards the belayer is loaded. I love how you demonstrate both scenarios: ZÆD engaging when the belay strand is loaded and ZÆD not providing friction when the belay strand is completely unloaded. That's exactly how it was designed to work. This allows the belayer to adjust their tactics for different belay scenarios like fast rope feeding without friction or actively short roping and engaging the device to shorten the fall distance when needed. Regarding one hand use while being in the climb: ZÆD wasn't designed for that and I honestly wouldn't recommend it. I'd rather preload the device while still being on the ground and attach it to my harness' gear loop like a regular quickdraw before getting into the climb. Thats much easier in my experienvce. If you or your viewers have any questions left about ZÆD, please feel free to get in touch with me. Either here in the comments or directly via the whatsapp number of our shop (+4917615002220) or via instagram or facebook messenger (@raedclimbing). I'll try to answer every message as quick as I can. Greetings from the mountains of the Allgäu in Germany (but very close to the Austrian border), also to Mrs. Mullet. Climb hard, Stephan from raed climbing.

I switched from Ohm to ZAED and never wanna move back. Quick hint: You're not supposed to fumble the rope into the ZAED while climbing. You do it before (on the ground) and then just clip the ZAED's carabiner (including the ZAED and the rope) on the 1nd bolt once you've reached it. Just the way you would clip your normal quickdraw. No fumbling around at all.

Great review! 3 points: The Zead is from Germany ;) The 3rd mode is for roofs, not for toprope I see the main application in well protected sport climbing, also indoor. There you can pre clip or you will not fall anyways.

I just got a Zaed and love it so far! Tried it a few times at the gym. Good for taking whippers at level 2 with a belayer 60 lbs lighter. Much safer. Cant wait to try it outdoors.

Awesome review! The zaed needing the second bolt clipped is interesting. I wonder if there would be way to make your own little system that extends the zaed a few feet below the first bolt, and then has a steely locker up by the bolt and the rope runs though both, giving the zaed room to lift up and engage, being pulled up by the steely. Especially in an area like yours where the first bolts are seemingly very high, I wonder if it would work. Maybe not worth the effort though.

When I was using the Ohm, I was clipping the rope into it before I stared climbing. This way, I just had to clip the Ohm into the first bolt with the rope already installed into it. I think the same can be done with the Zaed.

Fantastic comparison, thank you! The fact that the Zaed doesn’t work on the first bolt is a total dealbreaker

Yeah I was going to say the Zaed seems to have been thought to work together with a clip stick, but then it seems it wouldn't work for the routes you have over there 😂 that kind of bolting is kinda scary!

1:32 Depending on what hole I stick it in the resistance varies? Even if it's wet? Appreciate you lol

Just got the Ohm II. game changer. Much smoother to use and lighter than first generation. I see the appeal of Zaed, but the operation looks trickier. Of course, once you learn, you learn.

Such a crime i only found aussie hownot2 now and that he only has 500 subs whats wrong with the world

Super interesting. Great review, interested because the opposite of you, because I am pretty skinny guy so everyone quickly exceeds my weight!

ahhh but the first quickdraw is where weight difference can result in harder slams

Graet reviwe