10 is the strongest, he survived 9-11

Sounds interesting, probably not useful but it'd still be cool to see.

Quite interesting, questionably useful. Sounds like KZfaq

Not an expert by any means, but my understanding is that the main strength is the core strands. The sheaths main purpose is to protect the core from abrasion and being cut on edges.

@@cdans2202 often you can find literature that states its a 70/30 split of strength, the core being 70 and the sheath being 30 but both parts can be constructed differently to tune the desired properties.

Interesting vid.

I also wonder if maybe the numbers for the smaller diameter are from an older material or manufacturing method, and the increased strength wasn't carried into an increased MBS because it was a side effect or unintentional

You also saw the same phenomenon (just not quite to the same magnitude) in the actual tested numbers in this video though. So I don't think that's it.

@@briancarr9663 sorry, I wasn't more specific because I did actually mean that magnitude of leap because the manufacturer rating and the ones tested here. The leap is there, but not as massive, and I wonder if this is because the smaller diameter is just a little less consistent for establishing an MBS.

Good hypothesis for 6 vs 7 In isolation, but not for why 6 vs 7 breaks the pattern established by 5 vs 6 and 7 vs 8.

Well, it's Godwin's Law, and applies to calling someone Hitler....🤣

@@kenmoum162 Noooo, you corrected me in the wrong way lol. That is a joke that tries to get people to reply like "It's not Goodwin's law, it is Cunningham's Law!!" Therefore proving the law is correct 😅

@@prgnify That is effing hilarious. But then what can you expect from a 75-yo cyclist and golfer who watches some goofs on the west coast breaking climbing gear. LOL

We tested the 5.9mm power sterling rope as that is used sometimes. You can see that here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r6dkmsaUl6vco4U.html

I was going to ask about Bluewater's Titan cord which has the HMPE. Having been out of climbing for 20 years and just getting back into the game, Im amazed how thin a line can be used as a cordellete.

Ryan and I tested that with dyneema, not nylon. It broke at 20.4 kN. #SuperGoodEnough.

Most rope manufactures, run a ten year color strand cycle. Different color every year, then repeat/recycle the colors. There's only so many colors to choose from lol.

Here is the video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b7N8i7yQusjOgoU.html

Both Tendon and Edelrid (Powerloc pro SP) make very high kN cords that are ridiculously supple. I regularly use both brands in 6mm (10/9kN) and 7mm (12/13kN). I've not found any better.

For my cordalette’s I favor using at least 7mm chord. Unless using a high strength tech chord anything below 7mm isn’t strong enough for me to be comfortable using it. There are times where a thicker cord would make sense/become necessary. The first that comes to mind is for a team of three climbers that are hauling heavy loads. In that case I would size up to at least 8mm maybe even 9mm. If I was using 6mm accessory cord (which would be for prussiks, not anchor building) I think Petzl and Maxim both have pretty high ratings for this diameter. Bonus points for cords that are made in the US or Made in Europe (not outsourced to China). Looking up as many companies as you can to compare the ratings for the diameter of cord you’re after can be illuminating due to the varied results (the maker of the strongest 5mm cord won’t necessarily have the strongest 7mm or 8mm cord). Which is why its not as simple and easy as "brand X has the strongest accessory chords period”. Also I wouldn’t worry about what a cordalette in a video looks like, whatever catches your eye may not be indicative of anything relating to strength/durability. You will certainly feel some variation between the various brands and options, some are stiffer/tighter and others are looser/supple. One alternative option to chords altogether that Ive been liking lately is the sewn web-o-lette type anchor sling. I have the Metolius web-o-lette style anchor sling, the longer of the two sizes, that I really like. Some of its advantages: integrated pouch that it stuffs into (vs having to coil it). This is really convenient & fast plus it provides protection from UV damage as well as abrasion. Also the fact that it has sewn loops on each end (reinforced/double layered) instead of relying on a knot or knots. This allows for it to meet the 22kN standard for sewn runners and it eliminates the concern over knotted dynema’s tendency to slip/untie when under load.

@@brianrodman1033 thanks for the thorough reply. With the sewn loop products you mention. Does each loop go direct to an anchor point? If I’m picturing that properly, those two points would have only one stand so there isn’t a redundant shelf. Shelf isnt really essential in a usual non-big wall setting but I’m curious if what I’m picturing is how you’ve used it.

From 6 to 7 isn't a small percentage change, so the first order approximation isn't much help.

That sounds like a very expensive test. If you want to send all those ropes to Ryan, I’m pretty sure he would do it.

I want to get a Scream to have a device that’s intended for rappelling on accessory cord down to 6mm or 7mm in diameter. Good to hear that it works well for you. Are there any other devices that you would recommend checking out in addition to the Scream. Also any downsides to using the Scream to look out for?

@@brianrodman1033 the Scream is a simple binding plate so it is more fiddly to use than a standard tube device. It also has 4 modes that it can be used in creating various degrees of friction on different sized ropes. They are not the easiest to discern. All this is to say that it’s not the simplest to use. Gotta practice with it before deploying it in anger. As to other devices to use, I picked up the Petzl RAD system, containing a Tibloc and MicroTraxion. If you don’t already have an ascender, and don’t use them often, pick up a Tibloc or two. On a recent trip to the Alps, my guide and our crew used some purple static 7mm line for everything. I felt perfectly comfortable rappelling using that. It felt plenty substantial. The Petzl Rad line, on the other hand is spooky thin. Were it no for the purposefully high friction sheath and low compressibility of the rope it would be even creepier. I get a feeling that normal accessory cord won’t perform as well as a dedicated rappelling line as the ones designed for the task. Petzl suggests using beam cross-section type HMS ‘biners when rapp’ing on the RAD line. This probably applies to all other similar ropes. They are higher friction than round stick ‘biners. Adding multiple into your normal rappel device adds friction. Lastly, if you haven’t/don’t already, learn and practice how to climb a rope that you are suspended from. An ATC Guide/Petzl Reverso/most binding plates like the Grivel Scream can easily be turned into a progress capture device while on an extended rappel. Combined with a second prussik cord, a double length sling, and 2 extra locking ‘biners you have a very versatile system that gets you up and down the rope with zero drama. Also learn the Texas Prussik technique of ascending a rope with two prusssik cords. Always keep that kit with you. Lean how to rappel without a device. The Munter Hitch can save you or your partner when you inevitably drop your Rappel/Belay Device. Personally I would consider 2 double length slings, 3 locking HMS carabiners {Petzl Attache are favored by me}, 2 prussik cords, a cordalett, and a guide mode belay device should always go out into the field with you as your Emergency Rappel Kit. Add in a Tibloc and MicroTraxion with their accompanying carabiners, and you also have basic ski mountaineering kit, too. As to other devices designed for use on such thin cords, I know of none.

Well, that's not now things work, dude, with ANY material.

@admacdo2009 ya i was stupid high when i made that comment lol. I forgot about it till now

Take it up with the manufacturer's and retailers.

@@HowNOT2 you could weigh a piece before your test

@@francismartinevans think his premise is manufacturers label this in diameter, this is sold and discussed in diameter, and the channel is usually about use in the field and by consumers. Wouldn't make sense for him to not classify cord in diameter.

@@zacharylaschober the manufacturers seem to tell so many 'pork pies' about rope/cord diameter... hence i think weight per metre is a more scientific/geek way to 'classify cord'... im convinced the testers would see a different data / trends when plotting their results... especially when you start weighing your ropes, and find your 8.9mm and 10.5mm weigh so similar

@@francismartinevans not disagreeing there, more explaining why the phrase "I wish you would not classify cord by 'diameter'" is more to do with how manufacturers and the public classify cord, and more of a "have you tried classifying cord by X" might be more appropriate for the channel.

no

Watch a few more wand wait for him to saw “sewn” or “known” etc and you’ll realize he would be hopelessly unable to to a Trump impression. Lol (he has called this out on a video so I’m not being a jerk.)

Its actually quadratic as the area of a circle grows with the square of its diameter, exponential would mean it grows with a constant to the power of the diameter