Raleigh Technium Restomod #1: Planning the Build; Discussing Chainline, Gearing, Etc

  Рет қаралды 237

Spinning True

Spinning True

3 ай бұрын

The first of many bike builds I have planned for 2024 is a 1988 Raleigh Technium 'The Chill' mountain bike restomod. In this video I mainly discuss the build as well as some of the challenges I will face such as the rear dropout spacing, chainline, and gearing.
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Пікірлер: 17
@Honkawsuzyamal
@Honkawsuzyamal 2 ай бұрын
Greetings from Maidstone England. Yesterday I fitted a new Acera derailleur and cable to my Carrera crixus winter bicycle which is a cyclocross bike which has 130mm drop outs - surprising. The Evans shop next to me where you bought a bicycle haunfortunately closed
@spinningtrue
@spinningtrue 2 ай бұрын
Oh really that's too bad! Sounds like a cool bike maybe some (all?) cyclocross bikes use road bike spacing
@jeffturner8927
@jeffturner8927 2 ай бұрын
Well if you lived next door, there’s a few bikes I’ve got that could do with a bit of attention. 😊. I’m always staggered at the size of the big cog on the 1 x cassettes. When MTBs came in were they always fitted with cantilever brakes? When I first started road racing back in the 60s the big thing was centre pull brakes. What is the most efficient design, apart from disc?
@spinningtrue
@spinningtrue 2 ай бұрын
Lots of wonderful questions, I'm definitely not an expert but will add this to my long list of video ideas... I find center pull brakes to be difficult to adjust and less powerful but I'm also less familiar with them. I think that side pull road calipers work very well and are very easy to adjust. Cantis have better clearance for big tires and they seem powerful but I'm not sure which is actually the most efficient from a physics point of view. They're definitely my favorite aesthetically though. Finally I personally think v brakes can be a little finicky with the spring and I just don't really like them for whatever reason but they work well too if they're well adjusted. It also all depends on what kind of pads and what kind of cable housing you use.
@hberg321
@hberg321 2 ай бұрын
@@spinningtrue Oh, this reminds me of something I read regarding these bikes, or any others with front cantis, I suppose. Maybe you already know this, but someone posted to be sure not to remove the front reflector bracket. There's a small chance that the front brake cable could snap at the saddle, letting the loop cable droop, which could potentially snag on tire tread and yank the front wheel to a sudden halt.
@spinningtrue
@spinningtrue 2 ай бұрын
@@hberg321 Great advice! Yes I have heard this, wouldn't want this to happen to me.
@hberg321
@hberg321 2 ай бұрын
Mind if I ask some technical questions? I've had a "Flashpointe" since I was about 13 which I believe was a 1989 model year update of "The Chill" which moved the brakes up from the chainstays to the saddlestays (and probably changed the sprocket set/derailleurs). Otherwise the frame looks the same and it definitely has that same distinct style of stem and the same handlebars. I have two questions for you: 1. Do you find the steering to be a little twitchy at very low speeds and 2. Does the front fork seem to be any more or less curved than a typical replacement? I ask because I recently pulled the bike out to get back in shape and rediscovered that I get a little wobbly on the steering at very low speeds. I had a stick jam itself into the front wheel/fork Back In The Day which wrecked both and I have a generic curved front fork on it now. I don't recall if the steering was twitchy with the original fork and so even though I've tried all the usual things (like making sure the tires are fully inflated) I've wondered if the curve of the new front fork could be a little off. It may just be a "me" thing, so I'm curious if you find that one a little twitchy with its original fork. If not, does anything about the amount of curve or height look unusual that my generic curved fork could have wrong?
@spinningtrue
@spinningtrue 2 ай бұрын
I'll get back to you in a few days!
@hberg321
@hberg321 2 ай бұрын
@@spinningtrue Thanks! Have fun with the build.
@spinningtrue
@spinningtrue 2 ай бұрын
@@hberg321 So I don't think that the steering is very twitchy at low speeds and I did look at the fork and yes I do think that it is quite curved... I tried to measure the offset and I think it's somewhere around 45-50mm. That doesn't sound very high to me but I looked at another old MTB I have and that offset is more like 35mm so maybe you do need a fork with more curve to it.
@hberg321
@hberg321 2 ай бұрын
@@spinningtrue Ah, thank you so much for that information! I'll try to measure my current offset to see how it compares. I've been trying to read up on "trail" and head tube angle's effect on steering and there seems to be some black magic in there.
@hberg321
@hberg321 Ай бұрын
Hi - I'm revisiting this question because bike geometry has been sending me down a bit of a rabbit hole and wondered if you could try something the next time you are out on this bike. Do you find that you can ride a line on the pavement well at low (like, hill climbing, not much faster than walking) speed on the Raleigh and does it seem easier on any other bikes? That's what I've been investigating lately because I can not do it at all on my Technium, am not aware of having been able to do it on any bike before, and was quite surprised to find recently on a rental road bike that I could do it easily. I've also found that front tire inflation makes a huge difference. If it isn't pumped to rock-hard state I am noticeably more wobbly. The thing that has me doing all this investigation recently is that I've been doing laps around Central Park and find that I just weave back and forth more than other riders during a slow hill climb and have had passing riders suddenly call out or ring which implies I was swerving more than I realized. I don't like the idea of being a road menace. I've since been paying attention more and noticed that I'm making constant steering corrections during a slow hill climb, much more so than other riders (even those with upright, non-road geometry). With any amount of speed on the bike it's stable as a table. From what I've read online, a slack head tube angle plus high fork offset equals low trail giving more responsive steering. A low offset would give more trail which should be more stable but (and this part has really been driving me nuts) possibly more wheel flop. I think this is why tire pressure makes such a difference. A tire that isn't rock hard will compress a couple millimeters, steepening head tube angle/reducing trail and reducing stability (at least, that's my theory). I tried to measure the offset of the fork I have now and it also looks to be in the 50mm range so it could be that this is just the way it is. If that other mountain bike you measured has the same head tube angle as the Raleigh but with less offset it should be a high trail bike. It would be interesting if you found the handling to be significantly different.
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