Also, you are looking at a Chevy V-8 from 1964. ( well, Buick). Think of it as an aluminum block small-block 283, that has been sleeved. You should be able to install a manifold, and carburetor from a 1964-5 Buick, which was even offered turbo-charged. A four-barrel Rochester and an HEI Distributor would reduce the making it run to fixing a 1960's Chevy.

To the guy making the video, you could jump the trigger-wire under the switches you are manually jumping, to the actual trigger-wire from your ignition switch, you might have to jump power to the power-supply side of the switch, ( This is where I would disable a system at the ECU to produce a theft prevention feature), just jump a wire from whatever lights up the dash-lights. Or, get cheap Chinese remote control relays from China, they give you four buttons to push, you could use two of them to achieve what your finger is doing under the hood. I think these are going to be classics, and the price is low now, it's scrapping the ECU that needs to happen, and I am currently swapping coil springs into my air-bagged 1996 HSE. Maybe I will post a video of how I end up doing this. I started by purchasing a suspension from a Discovery, I may bolt the front lower spring-perch to the air-bag perch, after I disassemble it. This seems like the simple adapter. A second option is to fill the air-bags with leak-sealer and block off the air inlet, just make it permanent. A third option would be to use the coil-over struts from a Land-Cruiser ( 2005 or so), it is only 4-inches in diameter and bolts into the front shock area. The rear springs are easy, replace the lower perch with the Disco gear.

Thank you so much ,,,,I was having such a hard time ,,,everyone should know this hack

Yes, It sounds like the Immobilizer has triggered. There are a lot of posts about how you might go about resetting your unit. However, I made the mistake of changing the battery in my Key Fob, thinking that was the problem! LoL... bit mistake. So, after six months of messing around with every other approach, I just purchased the hacked (unlocked is the term they prefer) ECU from the company mentioned. It works perfectly now. With that said, I need to mention that you would need to bypass the two relays that I talked about in the video... RL15 & RL16. You can simply solder two jumper wires, at the front of the BeCM module under the passenger’s seat (American version). Let me know if you need those instructions and I will post them. It is very simple.

This sounds like an original issue with the transponder chip and a simple key replacement along with it's programming to resolve the issue. My saviour is the Silca SBB V33.02 (Don't get an older Version!) Without this tool, and some new Transponder chips from China I could not fix certain cars (I am backyard mechanic, saving money by not transferring vehicles & paying crazy taxes, so I could not goto dealer and buy a new key ($90 to $1000 for Mercedes.)) Some ignition like the 2008 Cobalt I had to program a New transponder and place that inside the coil that surrounds the ignition (Just use an extra coil from junkyard, plug it in, and hide it under dash with Transponder chip glued or taped into it. I had to install a used ignition from a junkyard buddy (Free! I had to go get it out but it was free!) Program key FOB for the door (Most cars only need a working key to program FOB so that comes after it starts!) (Note:*** Must have specific transponder chip & Key FOB) It cost $120.00 Canadian for the SBB programmer (Lucky to get it through customs.) Purchas blank keys with Transponder chips for $2.00 and it's good to have transponder chips for certain models. The 2004 Honda Accord with reprogrammed key from junkyard but Not with the 2006 Cobalt So SBB automatically erases all previous keys in the ECU We Programmed a blank key with New transponder, put that under dash and all was good! Of course replacing the ignition was essential and KZfaq videos help simplify the process. Oh and the Ford Focus if you have to change the key, Just rip the old steering column out as well as the ECM and get one from cheap junkyard and you are good to go. Likely can buy a whole Focus for $100 on kijiji in Canada as they rot out and have had many engine issues (So many in junkyards). Point being, and sorry to leave such a long comment but I don't see how this helps anyone, who wants to pay $1000 to British programmer, Had you offered the techniques of how to program our own EEPROM with this update and the update itself So we can get rid of Immobilizer altogether... Still an Interesting video and 2 thumbs and a Like for the effort and especially anything on the Land Rover is worthy of that to me. Thanks

Thanks... But one trick is on a super lock failure... is to resync. the key like this and only this: a) press the lock button on the key fob before inserting in the door lock, b) hold the lock button on the key fob down while inserting the key in the lock, c) while holding the lock button down on the key fob rotate the key to lock (clockwise toward back of car), d) stop at the lock position keeping the lock button pressed down on the key fob, e) count three (3) seconds off while keeping the key lock button down and the tumbler rotated fully to lock (clockwise position toward back of car), f) turn key to central (vertical) position while keeping key lock button pressed , g) remove the key from the lock keeping lock button pressed on the key, and h) release the lock button on the key. Voila, it should be synced and released from super lock ! Keep your Key battery fresh, and just as importantly keep the main car battery above 90% reserve capacity, and fully charged. If the cars' battery when tested shows less than 90% reserve at any time, replace with the recommended size battery (ya I know its an excavator, tractor or semi battery and is heavy, costly and has short warranty... but if you are dumb enough to love the car you gotta pay that price. Going to a smaller battery no matter how high tech or what the warrantee is a sure fire way of asking for security / locking failures, ABS failures, and EAS failures. If you let the car sit for a few days without running often you will have problems due battery reserve capacity... if you put on a battery tender remember it NEEDS at LEAST 8 amp output as that is the basic load these cars put on the battery, particularly if the locks are going locko wacko. So this now 13 year long fight against my own car is possible to end, but I got 5 of good use before it totally went locko wacko and with the other assorted issues with EAS, and ABS system problems. Love the car, hate the lock / security system. Range Rovers lose value like a falling stone... and the door lock / security system starts acting up a about year 5... basically it is worth so little after the first 5 years a junk Nissan Sentra has more valve to steal... so only a fool would steal one. So why do we need the exotic "security system". Oh well, Rovers always been like this I had a 1961 station wagon 88 and got it stuck in the Minnesota woods by the river right at beginning of winter. It stayed there until spring and only was rescued a few days before it was washed away by the river flooding. A final comment on the ABS brakes, bleed every year to flush the system. Replace the accumulator every 5 years (they slowly leak charge and the that's the design life), and MOST importantly replace the brake booster/masters' PLASTIC RESERVOIR every 5 years (it has a filter you cannot clean in an inaccessible place any crud or old fluid with cause the pump cavitation and /or fill your valuable and delicate ABS system with crud ), and replace the PUMP electrical RELAY every 5 years (70 amps of electrical arc every time your system pump runs! Why is ANY crud or moisture contaminated brake fluid will ruin system components costing about (currently at dealer prices) $12,000.00 for the brake electro-hydraulics. These are VITAL if you want a reliable long lasting brake system. Unfortunately, the 1997-2002 (last one produced 2001) range rovers somehow ended up with a NON failsafe braking/traction control system. The only one I know of, and it should have been a recall issue. Actually the later rover p38 was the first integrated braking/traction control system. ALL other braking / traction control or ABS brakes made FAILSAFE allowing you to proceed literally forever if the system fails but with the brakes working without the non-skid feature. Those Rovers do NOT fail safe and the brakes will totally disappear one day, with you stopping if you are lucky with the handbrake or unlucky in someones living room or ramming a car in front of you or sliding off a cliff... .

The key-fob battery must be replaced in less than 15-seconds, or you will have to re-code it. The instructions I saw said to press the lock button until it rapidly blinks, then lock the door. Do the same to un-lock. Now, it will be coded to the lock. Next, a four digit code should be in your users manual, perhaps under radio code. Turn lock four times to unlock, then finish code to the right, 2345 would be two turns, pause, 3 turns, pause, etc, and it will make noises as you do this. Bingo, it all works. If you have the code. 9 U.S. model 1996 P-38 4.6 HSE)

Hi it’s me again, I got some questions to ask because mine is getting a stand alone ecu on mine and I would like to ask how did you make it start normally without opening the hood and picking relays

I have a 1998 p38 that was in lock out mode but I used a key fob to get the engine running. However, the hood is locked along with the drivers door. I have since jimmied the hood open, but door remains locked. Any ideas on how to remedy this? thanks

Well I just went through this a couple hours ago. I dont know if its a fluke or what but all I did was disconnect the battery and then pulled all the relays and fuses that had anything marked with an engine on the diagram. Reinstalled them. Then I reconnected the battery and it started up. I started it over and over again. Perhaps the system had a fart, giving me a heads up that it's gonna take a dump soon, or just needed to be reset or something. Who the hell knows but i was thankful to make it home.

Thank you so much for this video

So did you have to flash the new ecm to the vehicle my p38 just did this

I have a similar problem in the same car. The code I saw was P1842 and a p1843. Symptoms with the car are crank no start, no spark, no current to the injector with the key on ignition and no injector pulse when cranking. I have checked all the fuse and relays in the power center but everything seems really nice aside from the ABS relay that I felt is hot to the touch after cranking. Please sir help me on what I should do on this case. Thank you sir.

Same situation, here, where did you get these 2 relays: #15, #16 ? Please explain your term, "Pick the relay" Do you mean "Squeeze" or is there an external tab on each of these relays ? Regards, Paul in Pennsylvania

You are not bypassing the immobiliser. You are only turning the vehicle on and starting , which would happen if you turn your key ....the main issue here that would be very helpful is if you showed us how to start it from the ecu that has immobiliser on or how to hack the ecu and unlock the ecu😊

My relays are plastic covered with no external tabs whatsoever. Do you know where your relays originated from ? What model year is your P38 Range Rover. Help !!!

These things are a nightmare

I know the vid is 6 years old if you still have the car show us how it turns on

Wow!

Good morning, I have the same problem with a discovery, I reset the unit, making the contact of two relays the machine side, Peo I still flashing arrows and sounds :-( mica can you tell me what I have yet to pass bay? I thank you in advance Nicola

Good 👍

👍

Good video but i have a slightly different problem in that my '96 P38 4L starts and runs fine, but at the same time the siren blares and the door locks chatter, the direction indicators stop working, the windows go up and down, sometimes the harzards come on and the dashboard gauges malfunction. So, if I drive it, it looks like the carnival arriving. Any ideas please?

just stumbled on your post- pls help!; is this how the faulty Immobilizer Module would behave: all board lights on, outside lights blinking, engine won't start- all out of the blue??? could it be one of the maxi fuses?- and why is the car's manual mention that owner should not attempt to change these fuses? I would appreciate any suggestions; thx

Hi, first, sorry for the English, I'm using google translator. ;) I have a P38 1996, I do not have remote control, I use only the key on the door. The alarm has tripped and is immobilized. Last year I had a problem and I had to change the BECM / ECU because the nanocom locked the BECM module and could no longer access it. Trouble has been detected in the door lock. Today I was informed that this lock is ok, but Eka does not unlock the module, continues message "Engine Disable". I would like to know if you can pass me some info, links, etc. of how to unlock the ecu (hack), or else if you could make the change for me. Thanks for any info and for sharing this video. ;-)

Hi brother

great job!..hey i have a 2010 LR2 HSE, new batter and starter, and my immbolizer is triggered. They say i need a EKA 4 digit code, where and how do i find one? i bot the car used. i use the code by turning the door key left and right in sequence, or is there another way to bypass the immbolizer???? please help!!!

Very nice work!

Hi I have situation simular to yours, I bought a 96 range rover. Fob has been broken but I have the key, it has been immobilized as well. Your saying inevitable the fobs go bad?

Do you still start it like this

My P38 V8 4,6 has a similar issue, battery goes flat within 2-3 days standing, I took it our, recharged and now the doors lock, central locking wont open, and if I use manual key the alarm goes off. Disconnect battery it goes off. Tries key reset using left right formula written in service book, but still nothing, Any ideas welcome.

Hi. I know you posted this a while ago but I hope you will still get this message. My 2000 Range Rover 4.6 had a new engine put into it but I do not know what syncing was done to it. When I try to start the car, the starter turns slowly and then stops and when I try again, it does the same thing. Is the cause that the engine is immobilized or the BECM not synced? I don't think I see a message saying that the engine is disabled but I tried to connect a wire from the starter to the chasis in case of grounding issues and the starter didn't turn at all. My last question concerns the key. I have one key that needs a battery but I am scared that changing the battery will cause the engine to immobilize if I try to use it. How should I go about this? Thanks.

hello, top as a solution! 👌 does it work if the vehicle is blocked by the alarm? and where do we find this box?

Question. Could this work on a 2004. And also. Is this only with a hacked system.

If it's immobilized will you always see an error...no error ..dash not turning on was working fine til we disconnected battery :(

Hi. Just a question: What direction are p38 engines supposed to turn?

I ve been having issue with the becm not sync to the ecu immo, when becm is not happy it just wont give me a ride : (, how to contact u for further instruction on bypass the immo?

I have a P38 (Bosch), I lost the key, I Can't use my P38 in 3 years :-( .... I need Help

Hi im hoping you can help me i have a 1997 LR RR 4.0SE V8 & it used to run great until one day the battery was dead i got a jump & it started then my cousin turns it off & it has never started again i even bought a brand new battery it cranks but will not kick over & theres no fuel coming from the fuel line & the fuel pump is not turning on also the inertia switch doesnt do anything the message displays that the windows arent set, the sunroof aint set but they work fine & also it says transfer neutral. Can you please help me? Thank you

Locksmith hold my beer um gonna hack this shit😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣 Bring my xprog

i have a 2006 range rover sport i can not fine the immobilizer and do you think i can bypass it.

Was your key on the whole time

The song name

👌

We have created a Range Rover P38 group on FaceBook, WHAT another one i hear you say? Well we set out to try and do something a little different and that is to do things right.! Gone are the wannabe armchair engineers and the trolls that seem to hinder most groups and in will be an admin team that consist of guys who knwo what they are on about and can navigate their way around RAVE to come up with solutions to problems. Its a very fresh group, and its very early days, but with your help we will get there, and not only are we looking for new members, we are looking for experienced guys to join the admin team and help build the group. We can be found here.... facebook.com/groups/925014894688556/

will it shift into reverse?

How do I get to these guys ?!

I need the guy info From British

Здравствуйте; как с вами связаться

Does anyone know where the ews is located on a 1999 Range Rover?

British hacker? Rofl, remote access is hacking? Cool didn't know I'm am one

Same situation, here, where did you get these 2 relays: #15, #16 ? Please explain your term, "Pick the relay" Do you mean "Squeeze" or is there an external tab on each of these relays ? Regards, Paul in Pennsylvania