5:08. "If your compartment bulkheads are too high, your ship won't sink." Sounds like something they should have put into consideration 100 years ago.

@TheTitanicSpecialist Glad you're inspired, friend! Diagonal cuts are tricky, as the hull halves tend to get caught on one another - but please make one of your own! Friendly competition is awesome, as it makes everyone strive to improve!

OUTSTANDING instructional video! I've had this upstairs (unbuilt) in a closet for over 10yrs and always planned on making it R/C & light up, but it's great to see your mods as well. :)

I wish everything in life had an instructional video like this. Well done!

You guys should make a sinking Britannic model! 😃

I have that model. I made over 30 "watertight" compartments. I honestly don't remember how many are in there. Mine doesn't split or anything. My goal was to create a model that would sink like a real ship. At the slowest possible rate. She takes a full 15 mins to sink. and goes down by the head. I found you can control the angle that it goes down by creating lower bulkheads with ceilings with another layer of bulkheads just below D deck. Drilling holes in strategic spots and different heights.

You guys put together very, very realistic models! But, my favorite one is your cracking in half ship. You guys give great tips about modeling, cracking your models, ice berg damage, all that stuff. I would like to say that you guys inspired me by your modeling and models you created! Thank you Rapidnadion.

As a Multimedia Studies major, great video! Not only have you covered every question I might have had, you arranged it into a very professionally edited video. Great pacing, great narration, great work!

Jesus you sir have some amazing creativity that must've taken a long time turned out to be an amazing video!

Sadly, the amount of time and money invested in a model such as that would require us to first ask you for around $2000. :(

@philipfry4073 So glad to be of help! Thanks for watching!

You've inspired me to convert my Minicraft Titanic into an ocean-going model. It won't split in half, but I decided to be bold and try to recreate the interior bulkhead design of the real ship. The result is that it settles very slowly and has a good "headstand" before it sinks. Like, about 15 minutes from water flooding the forward well deck to the bridge going under.

Here's a what the fuck request/challenge: Is it possible to make a model that actually splits? I don't mean split by a control, I mean a model made with a certain amount a weight and a certain material that wouldn't be strong enough to support the ship on end and would break apart during sinking. I know it'd be very hard (I'm not an expert in model making so for all I know it could be impossible) and I know the model could only be used once, but I think it'd be so cool it'd be kind of worth it.

@ChaseFilms8 Yes; the damage was given texture and depth with several layers of gray, white, and black paint.

@bg22116 The first time we built one of these, it was just for display also (and it still sits proudly on a display shelf near our shipyard). That took us about a year and a half as well. :) We don't use the same number of bulkheads because it simplifies the building process. The berg damage completely renders #1-5 bulkheads irrelevant, so they don't need to be there. The important ones for our purposes are amidships and aft.

thumbs up if you think that the model he just made is the best sinking simulation of the titanic

Thanks a lot for making this video. I always wanted a sinking model of the titanic. Also question,if I raise the bulkheads to the highest point possible for sinking, will it sink slower.

+Rapidnadion how do you do the scuff marks on the iceberg damage? I'm getting a model and not do the hull cut... How do you do the scuff??

hi guys, i got this from a 2nd hand shop near where i live pre-assembled, although the builder assembled the model as the olympic-but it wouldn't take long to change to titanic specs. love the detailing on your models by the way,brilliant effort,keep up the good work.

I've been pondering on an alternative separation mechanism, and this is what I could think of: Instead of relying on a fancy hi-tech thing, have a swinging pendulum in the bow with a circular hook connecting to a loop secured to the stern. Shorten or lengthen the hook to the angle you want the ship to break at, and let gravity and physics do the rest. However, the weight of the two halves might make enough friction to freaze it. Another: electromagnets and a remote. Con: computers Pro: lights

I am so trying this and yes, I am an experienced modeler, this video inspired me so much!!

1:350 is a larger model, which allows for a better scale recreation.

@ThePhantomFanatic We should have included that in the video - the build time was something like 35-40 days, actually. We had a lot of design work to do (and re-designs, when certain things didn't work out). Thanks for the compliment!

this has been so intresting to follow and watch, and now i can try it for myself! thanks you guys, and im looking foward to more vids to come!!

Just an FYI, Dremel makes some rotary tool wheels specifically for cutting plastic that make much cleaner cuts. Also, if your tool has a speed control, using the lowest speed can help you avoid the plastic melting you got.

0:10 - "This video documents how to convert the *Academy-Minicraft* 1:350-scale R.M.S. Titanic model ..." :)

Thats SO fucking cool. Very very amazing work!

@141natedogg On this model, we used CA glues of various brands, Testors model cement, and caulk. The CA glue (superglue) is a lifesaver, though; instant drying is the way to go!

You are most welcome! You can actually make cuts like a jigsaw in curves and shapes. I really enjoyed your video. Pretty amazing. Really good job. I just found my mini craft model that I started back in 95 an it sits half done. cant wait to finsh it now. thanks for the vid.

@cheshirepuss1 Magnets (and electro-magnets) were one of the many approaches we considered. In the end, the added bonus of smoke and sparks from the pyro system overcame all of its inconveniences.

Thanks for the additional background informations,...

Glad to hear it!

Depends on how you scratch-build it; it's not a part of the original kit.

I'm making this. But is it better to just leave the splitting part out if you are a beginner?

@Brandonloveslegos Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!

A great conclusion of the project! One day, I´ll try to make a model like this...but perhaps even more advanced ;-) (larger break-up area, not just a straight cut but several diagonal cuts , if possible, so it looks even more realistic ) You sure have inspired me!

Will look forward to seeing that!

@britannic192 Wow - you watched it so fast, you beat us to it! We haven't even finalized the post-processing yet! :)

@Friendo1231 Wow - first we've heard of it! We'll definitely check it out - thanks for the referral!

@britannic192 Haha - congrats; you just did! All right - headed to bed feeling accomplished. Thanks for being the late-night Positivity Squad, guys!

@TheWannaBeNerd1912 We're definitely going to try to get a definitive Model Titanic SPLITS out there before the 100th, yes.

You filled the hull with coins! :)

@Finster1998138 Thanks very much - we're happy to hear our videos motivated you to get a KZfaq account, and that you're enjoying the new ones!

THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!!! I have built a Lego version of the Titanic, And I took your advice, And it sinks very well! Thank you Very Much!!!!

@Jakanddaxter1999 We might tweak it a bit going forward. We'll have to see how things go as we set up for another round of filming.

I used a sharp blade and I added a lot of pennies and it worked for me lol

@TitanicMasta At this scale, the smaller number of compartments doesn't make much of a difference in flooding behavior. It also simplifies construction somewhat. Thanks for the compliment!

@Pairjira They sure do; that's pretty much how we left it. On the intact Titanic, we drilled out a hole on the fantail where the stern anchor hawser was (we think), to allow air to escape, but it wasn't necessary given all the holes left in the deck for rigging, so we didn't repeat that on the splitting version. As long as there are one or two of those tiny rigging pinholes left open, air will still be able to escape.

great job guy. it looks great

That is very cool!!!!! I'd like to see you guys try to build a U.S.S Arizona and modify it to blow up and sink. That would make a cool Pearl Harbor movie

The most effective way to cut plastic models is ordinary house hold sewing thread. What you do is put masking tape where you plan on cutting and that will give you not only a cleaner cut but it also gives you a place to draw a reference line to cut along. using this technique will give you very precise cuts with very little matirial loss between peices. just wrape the thread around your pointer fingers on both hands and start sawing away like your flossing. you will be surprised with the results

@AsylumKid1 Yes. If you're a beginner, it would probably be best to first build an intact sinking Titanic model. The Revell 18" version is a simpler build and is well-suited for this. It's the one we started out with.

would be better to use a fine dremel cutter in a speed controlled dremel and cut from the inside. and don't cut all the way through. make the cut till the plastic is paper then . then just snap it. this make a thin line that is not only hard to see when the two pieces are together but will make the hull a bit more realistic. this is how I cut the iceberg damage on my raise the Titanic model

2nd way to make iceberg damage.(for children) 1 get a knife. 2 cut some holes. 3 add a little bit of grey to the holes. 4 add a dusting of white 5 you did it!!

this video is amazing and you really described everything in detail and that is cool

@BigHrdB Best compliment we've had in a while. Thank you! Can we suggest you build a new model like you want to? It's never too late!

@MrDMTVProductionz It sure would. It would also take an amazing amount of time and effort. Maybe someday, but no time soon. :)

Trial and error is part of the process. Keep on working at it and trying new approaches until you find a solution!

@RapidNadion Great job as usual. I have to say, your dioramas of the Titanic are getting more and more intricate. I still remember you being the main reason of me getting a KZfaq account, just to ask if you would sell one to me. :) I wish you good luck with any more Titanic projects you care to create.

@TK42138 Thanks! Yeah, we tried several approaches, and this was the one we settled on. It has its drawbacks, but the funnel smoke can't be beat. :)

@Titanic2me The hull sections were supposed to separate cleanly, but in each of the sinkings done thus far, they've been held together by remnants of the rubber band. We also had a magnetic strap on the bottom in one of these videos, but that played no role in keeping the hull together.

you guys rock its amazing,all the videos are cool great efforts!!!!

it is like the real titanic sinking

random question: Why was a 1:350 chosen instead of 1:1200? I'm no modeler, so I don't even know what these numbers mean, but I was curious about the decision of the varying difference...

All of the enamels and spray paints we use are water proof on their own; no clear coating is required. Generally we stick to Krylon outdoor paint on the spray side, and Testors enamel for brush on.

@Films0R0Us Hey, thanks! :)

That was cool I might jest have to try that :)

Wow - great tip! Thanks!

@nenxe Much appreciated!

@brickman1999 No, but this is the largest one that's widely available. The more space you have to work with, the better, generally speaking.

is there a video on how to make the 18 in. revell titanic spilt?

@tigerxwild123 Well, opinions may vary ... but we don't think we got it right until this past weekend, when we shot our newest Titanic video. "Model Titanic Sinks & Splits." We're pretty happy with it.

I just used a utility knife and kept lightly scoring my cut line until breaking through.

love this vid thanks for posting it helped me make my revell sink like the real one :)

Zip like the stern to capsize

very very very cool! i am still smiling. a very good idea and it works fantastic. What is the next one? apollo 13? oh man it´s so cool!

that is awsome. i bet it took a long time and awsome break up.

This is too cool. :)

@lyman2129 Probably varies depending on your personal preference. We considered a bandsaw. You want to make the thinnest, cleanest cut possible - even with a steady hand on the Dremel, it wasn't pretty.

@hongrand Depends where we sink it. Usually not more than 6 feet.

Nice. This is epic

VERY nice video!

Great video! I should try this one day!

1:350 is about as big as they get in kit form. :(

this is so insane i think i will try it

If I could find a better way to split the ship, I might try this stuff out. I always wanted to do a sinking model.

@Rapidnadion Ah. I guess trying to install a propeller shaft as well as a motor, radio, and rudder servos in something that not only sinks intentionally, but breaks in half would be tricky. As is it's quit interesting as I've only seen one Titanic model of that size break in half and sink. It was an intentional sinking but we never got that Titanic back. Mainly because the lake was far deeper than we thought and that we didn't care as long as the method of sinking worked which it did.

@BigDenny1020 Wow - electromagnets are a very cool idea. It wouldn't be "a simpler way," necessarily, but it sure would be as cool or cooler!

Amazing and Fascinating! Keep up the good work! :)

@snailwithalimp123 The voiceover says it right in the beginning at 0:50 - you can find them on eBay, like we did, or you can simply Google "Academy-Minicraft Titanic" and look in the shopping results, or you might be able to find them in your local hobby shop. Friends, do you mind voting this comment up?

@DamianReport in a model shop i bought a 22.2cm long R.M.S Titanic and it was only £6.00 not sure what it is in dollors but in pounds thats how much. Plus when you take it out of the box you have to make it but you dont really use glue (Paint not included).You have to get paint and paint it from memory since the instructions are in black and white.

I just ordered mine hopefully mine will do this

When you mentioned leaving a small hole after sealing the poop deck so that air gets trapped but still sinks in the verticle way, do the small holes where where the ratlines and rigging go also help?

@GreekGodJonathan Not sure we understand the question. This was a kit that we built and then modified. Is that what you mean?

Oh agreed; it would certainly be amazing from an engineering standpoint. But it would also have to be so thinly-hulled that it would be impossible to transport.

what do you use to paint just a brush it is very neat painting

that is cool

Do let us know how the project evolves! We're on Facebook at RapidNadion!

Mr.Mobile is that you?

@FalloutMafias You can probably R/C-ify almost anything! A gunship C-130 would be pretty awesome, but we're mainly focused on water craft at the moment. Maybe in the future!