Hey bro I really appreciate you putting this video together. I have a drag slash that’s been pulling to one side as well so I can’t even get an accurate speed pass. I do hope you put up some more videos this one was perfect

love these types of videos

Build break repeat, keep shredding dude🤘

Thanks again for the great video! For my project SC5M/B5M I have the Hot Racing slipper eliminator. They run about $20 and works with every B4/B5 AE spur gear. Just an option for testing to take a variable out of the tuning equation ;) Keep up the great work!

I love this type of videos and you do them so well. Thank you. I noticed at the other end some power lines could there be electrical interference ? As always great video.

Thanks for these videos

Looking good

Going straight ideas. Try again with foam tires. If one tire balloons just 2mm more then the other, the car will pull. Weight... Weigh each tire wheel combination with a digital scale. A heavier tire will have more rolling resistance. Make them the same. Also do the best you can to insure weight balance is the same from left to right. You will need two digital scales. Or try and balance the vehicle on a thin edge of a board. Bearings... may have rolling resistance as well. Try ceramic bearings if they have them for that kit. Or.. Soak the left side in a heavy weight oil and use a light weight oil on the right. Aerodynamics... Add to the rear spoiler/wing ONLY ON THE LEFT SIDE. (Stay short of the center point of the vehicle) to help pull the car back the other direction when at speed. Add sticky wheel weights to the left front.

Timing could be coming in too hard but if not I’d swap front shocks and tires to the other side. See if it goes left. If not, at least something to cross off the list. Then try the swapping rear tire sides and so on. At a specific speed downforce could be coming into play, forcing the body to the ground or even creating lift. Couple ideas. That hex hub spinning would have caused it to go left so replace and rock on. Slightly lower wheelie bar height could help keep the front down at higher speeds. Awesome build series. Good luck, can’t wait on the next one!

Nice passes, looking fast. Just need to find that perfect location

Its pulling the front wheels nicely!

My b5m based car that runs low 2 seconds 132' had a problem pulling one way ended up being a diff issue. The diff was making one tire spin more than the other. And with the slipper honestly all of the people in my area use the slipper to get out of the hole. My car runs a hobbywing xr10 pro g2, tekin eliminator 3.5t with 20° of can timing, 20° of boost and 30° of turbo. Runs straight as a arrow now. Another thing I learned that may help you with the way the car handles on the big end under higher speeds is go to a longer wheelie bar. I'm running the rcri 12" and my new b6 based car will have a 15". The longer bar keeps the car more stable at high speeds

👍🏾💯

Nice videos, & great info. I see that you test at 66ft, b4 you go all out to 132ft. Great way to test btw. My question is what are your mid track((66ft), & top end(132ft) ETs, & MPH?

High speed downforce is my guess. Maybe just enough of the right side of the body gets pushed down and scrapes causing it to veer. Good luck man.

Didn't see your build. Are you running a limited slip diff or a posi spool? If a diff, what weight oil? Also, I'd switch to a posi spool. Also, you might want to go to a slipper eliminator.

Maybe thicker diff fluid? Great vid btw.

Try pro line belted reaction tires do a really good burn out get them hot.

Check you body for tire rub.. that right tire could be catching the body at high speed when it expands

That far down track consistently pulling one way it could be on the bar unloading that tire just a guess really can't see to check the tire ballooning just rotate left to right and see if it pulls the other direction

You should check your shock length from top to bottom so trim all flash Off.then take calipers and measure From top of cap From bottom of eyelet shock should No shock compression while measure barely move shock between calipers and barely touch That's the length all 4 shock should be..I use front shocks all the around On my losi cause rears are too long. So I use losi 4 aluminum front shocks on my car.. So if you're shocks are longer only Measure just backs get same length Do same for fronts.. Then clean all shock oil out of shocks and refill with same oil.dont over fill shocks work all the air out And top odd oil as needed to get back were u started then let both shocks sit for an hour then re bleed U stop bleeding when shaft fully extens and stopped that one down repeat for other shock k when u get here barely push shaft in 2mm and Finish bleeding off stop tighten don't over tighten soon as starts to get tight stop and re Pete for other Shock when done.make sure spring are off no clips if threaded just leave Alone...now compress shaft should If it touches the bladder then tighten Cap 1/4 turn only and leave there Screw spring collar all the way up until it bottom out and stop.repeate On other shock...now take a sharpie Run straight down of cap on to shock collar tension down collar and cap repeate to other shock. No spring push shock shaft up slowly until it stop and let go all the way out if doesn't come all way out Start over. Just lightly down on on shaft if doesn't pull down that is a good repeate to other shock Now put spring you were running measure both front spring if one loner than other bench check the loner spring with tape till measure I buy new ones and let that one sit for week. Always measure new spring right measurement down Keep eye on them when u notice one getting shorter check when home length pro. Now if ur running threaded bodies is only shocks u draw line on shock so if u run clips Disregard the sharpie line I put shock on car with spring nothing onto want floppy sock bolt them down and trow on car stand And do same as above as u did in front now if your shocks same on Backs.when done with backs. And put on car like fronts Then rough ride height Do same for back Make sure car off stand make battery motor are in car.. Set front ride height Set rear ride height Then put body on car and re measure f& r ride should have tighten a little. So pull body off Tighten front and back 1/4 turn And put body back on if still if off A little just breathe both fronts very little same on back . Now if ur happy do back.now ur done I replace my shock oil every 2 weeks.then tear down once a month and rebuild all shocks .both front wheels come off at same time and touchsame ur good I have been racing for over 25 plus years. Alot of work to stay on top That's how I do mine.

Tork twist maybe , check ur springs maybe make them tighter

Try using a slipper eliminator. I run a exotek in my Dr10

Gyroscopic roll Out, is something you can’t see until you have a high speed video. I can see where the tire speed increases and grows in the center of the tread area and at that point the torque then over rides the rollout and increases the start of the turn. It usually ends in disaster or going through the finish line on the roof. That covers the problem now to correct the problem is another story. Stay tuned for the how to fix the problem. To counter this I have been researching a much easier method than was first attempted. When I get it completed I will share the info. I noticed many similarities between full scale drag racing and these models however the physics are much different. After many hours of research I have identified the similarities and I will develop a working chassis that will respond more like full scale cars which will allow much more adjustment and fine tuning for different conditions. This will be the start of faster passes and allowing more power to be put down on the ground instead of be displaced through the chassis that can’t be tuned. The end

Lo ok Kong fast bro

Camber and Tow is what you need to play with I had the same problem with my car

What are u doing to heat the tires up?

need to come up with a better wheel to axle assembly. Hex nut assembly is too sketchy if its able to spin, looks like the manufacturers over looked this in design.

Try and find a spot away from power lines. When I was racing touring cars some of us had that problem, it was the power lines. There are transformers where your car turns right.

What gears you running

I run my zipper full lock at all time

Dude don't run on sprayed blacktop very slippery. That treat spray like ice no grip. If your lucky find fresh laid Black top

Really dnt get any better than concrete

Belated tires

First?