Thanks 👍. Yep, BMW didn’t really think about how to get the windows back up if the manual cables are pulled and the top is experiencing a fault. Seems crazy to disable the side windows since the most likely time the top would be moved manually in an emergency would be if it stopped working and it was raining or something. They probably assumed people would just take it back on the dealer for repair, but at this point it seems they don’t even have experienced technicians that know how to work on these older models since they see them so infrequently based on comments and discussions with folks. Thanks again and glad the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hey man ! Glad the videos have helped some 👍. If I’m not mistaken, yours should be the same as mine in the video…I’m pretty sure this design came out in 2004 but I may be wrong. If it is like mine, it’s basically the bottom hinge where the thin hydraulic lift cylinders connect in the bottom of compartment where the top gets stored that tip forward to make the latches close (the latches are at the front of the compartment in line to where the thin hydraulic cylinders lower down into the compartment). If you manually raise the compartment lid up about half way (preferably with a helper on the other side of the car) and then grab the thin hydraulic cylinder’s body and pull upward slightly (like you are compressing the hydraulic cylinder), you should see the bottom hinge of the cylinder move which in turn moves the latch up at the front of the compartment. Once you see how it moves and the nut/bolt it pivots on, you can then look through the triangle for the nut/bolt that needs to be pushed when the compartment is actually closed. You’ll have to do both sides to reset both latches. If you still can’t get it figured out, just let me know and maybe I can post up a quick video with a better close up 👍.

@@StevesDIYs hi, thank you for replying . I just got the hatch locked. The screw on mine isn't green. I had to use a large flathead screwdriver for leverage. The passenger side was easy. The driver side was a PIA. I have the top locked front and rear and all 5 windows are up. Just in time too as a thunder storm is headed our way. I definitely don't have a relay problem because the top relays are in the window and the window went up. I get a green light when I hit either top button and all the windows drop. I believe you said in a previous video that if it's a Hall sensor the window lights wouldn't go green. When i did the relay swap i inspected the pump, it was dry and full of fluid. I scanned it with Carly and there are no new codes stores.

@@thethomasj1795 sounds like you are making some progress (and most important that the car is protected once more with the top and the windows up again 👍. If it drops all 5 windows, and the light between the soft top open/close buttons stays green while you are holding it down, then the car is trying to complete the step in the sequence, but just cannot complete it (basically making which ever hall sensor is next so it will know it completed the step in the sequence). There’s another video on the channel that does a slow mo through the sequence (if you haven’t found it). I believe after it lowers all of the windows, the next step is to unlatch the soft top from the top of the front window, then raise the wings and open the compartment. If it doesn’t sense that the rear window is fully down, it just waits until that sensor is made before continuing on. Since you mentioned that it’s not giving any codes, this also helps to confirm that it’s just trying to make a sensor, but just cannot get it to read. If you can move your back window with the button on the driver door (press the rear window button and when it lights up green then use the rear window toggle button to raise and lower), I’d try raising it up and lowering it a few times to be sure it goes all the way down to make the sensor in the back window module, then try the soft top button again (trying this a few times). Was the soft top working before and then it just suddenly stopped working?

@@StevesDIYs yes, it was working OK. I put it down and it wouldn't go back up. When I pressed the top button to put it up the light was green. I heard various clicking sounds and a bump like the pump was trying to come on. Occasionally the front wouldn't lock if I wasn't on flat level ground. That happened a few times over the years. The motor would keep running and I would have to put the top back down and move to a more level location for it to close properly

@@thethomasj1795 that is a tough one for sure. You may have to get the software like I show in the video (INPA) and the cable that they call the “Silver” one so you can see which hall sensors are not making in the sequence. The software s a free download from sites like bcable.com or bimmergeeks since these are now older and not supported much by BMW dealers (if at all now). When you buy the cable, the software comes with it and just needs a basic cheap laptop to run it (I use a dedicated laptop as I don’t trust free downloads, lol).

Hey man ! If your top functions normally, all that’s needed to do to get it to go back into the sequence would be to close the trunk and doors, then start the car and press either the top retract button if the cables were pulled when the soft top was retracted or the top close button if the top was closed and covering the car. It should finish the sequence and relock the top by it’s self. The only thing it might require is that the side windows and the rear window be lowered, but it also might even do that in its own as well when auto re-latching. If it doesn’t work, this video should allow you to manually push the catches back and it should go back into the normal operation.

Hello, the triangle shape I mentioned is actually the shape of the cut out in the metal that you can access the end of the cylinder to push it forward to lock the compartment cover latches. In the thumbnail of the video, the triangle shape is in the picture. The green nut I referred to is hiding just inside of this triangle shaped opening, but it is hard to see through the opening. Once you remove the trunk carpet, if you lift the soft top compartment lid up, you’ll see the triangle shaped cutout at the back…then look for the nut that is connecting the lift cylinder to the body frame…this is the green nut that’s on mine that gets pushed forward from the trunk when the compartment lid is down. The nut is just something to push on…you are actually pushing the entire end of the lift cylinder forward by pushing on it which re-latches the compartment cover. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve

Randy Williams , you could pull the carpet out and have a look through the holes in the metal to see what’s going on...it’s not hard to get the carpet out. You can pull the knobs and it will unlatch the compartment lid (pulling the knobs basically does the same function as the first part of the hydraulics when it lifts the lid), but a word of caution...if you pull them and the top has a fault on a sensor, it disables the side windows and rear window until you re-latch the compartment manually. That’s why I made this re-locking the lid manually video as it really stresses someone out when they try something and then everything stops working, lol. I live north of Nashville TN

I have an 07 650i

Hey ! Yep, these get fussy when things get out of sequence. The green colored piece I mention that you can push back toward the front of the car to latch the lid back is actually the bolt/nut that attaches the lift cylinder to the compartment deck. Mine has a green plastic nylon lock washer on it so I used that to reference what to push on for the video. For yours, it might not be green in color, but is basically the bolt that connects the cylinder end. If you can lift your compartment lid back up and look near the back where it hinges, you’ll see the end of the cylinder and also the small triangle shaped hole that is in the trunk wall that you can push it forward from when the lid is down. If you look at how the cables work to manually pop the catches by pulling them, you would basically be pushing the cylinder back to lock it vs. pulling the cables to unlock it. Hope this helps 👍. Steve

@@StevesDIYs i took it to bmw to get it diagnosed and of course they hit me with $165 to do that they said the motor was out in my convertible top which i don’t understand because it worked just fine before hand but they still couldn’t get my windows back up or the top to lock so i ordered the new motor it arrives Friday when i install it I’ll give you an update on what happens.

@@Trapprg , sounds good man ! For sure let me know how it goes 👍

Hey man, I live near Nashville TN.

@@StevesDIYs I am from MI I am having issues with my BMW 645 convertible top Red light blinking top not working and back window not going up when this happens also trunk don’t open with remote.Please help I did swap the relays like shows on your video and no luck , I did try to roll up the window manually won’t go anywhere what should I do

@@tonyberi1706 Hey again ! The most common fault for these is a fault segment sensor that is on the driver side mechanism that lifts the back triangular wings up. When this sensor looses its position, it will trigger the light to blink and also disables the rear window and the trunk (as a precaution to protect the soft top). Sometimes you can thump on the outside if the driver side wing or on the inside of the driver side wing (from inside the car) and it will allow the segment sensor to read the correct position and begin working again until you can replace the sensor. There are several videos on the channel under the BMW e64 Playlist that goes through where the segment sensor is and how to replace it as well as trouble shooting using the BMW software called INPA that you can download from the web. Hopefully the other videos will help 👍, Steve

Hey man ! It sounds like the main issue (what is causing the initial problem) might be with the latching motor that unlatches the top from the window and begins the motion as you mentioned it making the clicking noise like the motor gears have gone bad. There is another video out on the channel on how to remove and fix that by replacing the gears 👍. For getting the top back to the status prior to pulling the manual cables (trunk not opening and now it flashes and won’t move the windows), if there are no actual errors on the top (although it says top not locked or emergency mode) you can just push the button in the center console that is used to close the top over the car and it should re-latch the compartment catches and put the windows back up for you. If the car thinks it is has an actual error and will no longer do anything after the manual cables are pulled (sounds like where you may be now), you can actually lift the compartment cover up and see how the compartment latches work and push them forward to see how they lock the latches back…just be sure to push them back before lowering the compartment cover down to actually latch them from the trunk). Toward the end of the hydraulic cylinder, at the back of the car, you’ll see the part that needs to be pushed forward so when you go to the truck (with the compartment lid closed back), you can see what to push on. They do require some force to push them as they have to move the latching mechanism (when you pulled the manual cables you may have noticed that they were a bit hard to pull). Hope this helps and just let me know if you don’t get it figured out… 👍. All the best and thanks for Subscribing ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs Thanks so much Steve, I tried the locking technique with a bit more force and now thankfully the roof not locked warning has gone, the boot opens and the rear window works again :-). I am therefore back to where I was with the following below. I will disconnect the battery to see if things reset. Otherwise, you think its the latching motor at the front perhaps? press and hold roof button and the light is green on the centre console switch. - no display at all or warning on the dash that the roof is in motion - the windows drop and then silence, no unlocking or movement at all in the roof except clicking noises - release the switch and press again, and the windows drop down again, and the roof still makes no attempt to open or unlock. - press the close roof button to put windows back, there is no light at all on the switch - again no symbol on the dash to show roof function is in operation

@@ronniesarkisian , hey man ! Glad the info helped to get you back to the original issue 👍. If the clicking is coming from the center above the window (this is where the motor is that unlatches the soft top from the window), I would say that the motor gears have gone bad and this is what you are hearing. Here’s a link to another video that shows this mechanism and how to change the gears: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9ajlKhkutCRcoE.html . There is also another video on the channel that is referenced in this video on how to remove the plastic cover to access this mechanism. Since your soft top is still covering the car, it s a bit more difficult to remove the plastic cover, but it definitely can be done. There are two small screws under the rubber trim on the sides that have to be removed, then the plastic piece can be pulled down to expose the mechanism. Have a looks at the other two videos and if you have any questions, just let me know 👍. Thanks and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs Thanks again! If you were in England, I would bring the car to you :-). I will try replacing the gears as I hear clicking noises. I hope it's the gears and not the motor itself but will see if there are any error codes in INPA first.

@@ronniesarkisian , thanks man….glad to help 👍. Yep, usually if the gears are clicking, the motor itself is still good (it actual motor was made well, it’s just that they used plastic gears to reduce the noise and they eventually break). The replacement metal gears have a bit more noise, but shouldn’t have issues with breaking like the plastic ones do. Let me know how it goes and all the best ! Steve