It really depends on what you are doing with the wood. It's your wood, your mill, your time and it's going on your property. So it all depends on what you want to do.

Great practical video. Thanks for showing the way you get er done.

Small logs are great for 1x4 purlins. Well worth the time

You answered a few questions I had. Thx.

Happy New Year! Congrats again on 20K well deserved!

Enjoy your videos have been following them for a few weeks now. Thank you and Happy New Year Mr. Troy and family

Great video

Interesting video. Thanks for posting. Best Wishes

I have a circular saw mill. My smallest diameter is 6" if the log is very straight. That small log will square up 4" X 4". It may have a little wane but it will cut out 2 - 2 X 4's or 1 - 2 X 4 and a 1 X 4. With the thinner kerf on this bandsaw mill, you should be able to do the same.

Good stuff . And Happy new year

Drinking game with this video, skoll a drink when he says wane and you will be feeling it in the last quarter.

That is one neat machine

Thumbs up and Happy New Year

I had a friend that always told me "if I can get 2) 2x6's out of the log it goes on the mill. Anything smaller is firewood!"

Happy new years

Happy New Year

Happy new year

another great video, u showed how small the 29 will do, be great to see a video on how large the 29 will do, i cant get over a 23inch on mine, maybe i am missing something, hope u and ur family have a great year

Red, Love the vid's. I have the same mill less the trailer and extensions. Watching the videos, I noticed the sawdust ejection ports are plugging. What I did was to cut the center out and made a deflection chute, out of sheet metal, to aim the dust down. Just a suggestion.

Hey! I really like your videos. There's so much information available on the internet to learn from. I've been looking at sawmills and I haven't settled in on anything yet for my budget. I want to quarter saw some lumber for building guitars and mandolins, and just some lumber for myself. The problem I ran into is a saw with a deeper throat cut within my budget. 15 in or maybe 12 inches will do. If you have any ideas let me know. Thanks Tim from Yadkinville N.C.

Happy new year Tory, I like to see your son running the mill. He is old enough and would help him build character. On the video he looks A little bored. Great video.

Thanks for the video..few question for you. 1) how much does the blade cost to replace. 2) how soon can you use the wood for deer stands and shed making 3) what do you do with the cut waste

what engine did you choose on your norwood? been looking at one for a while, have you had any issues?

You might try adding an eighth of an inch for the kerf. I run a 19 gauge blade set to 100 thousands of an inch. The blade is actually .042 thick. One eighth is 125 thousands so you are 25 thousands strong of the target size and you will loose a little more to shrinkage. This puts you in a good spot if you run out of lumber and have to buy some. Nominal lumber losses half an inch up to six inches and three quarters of an inch over six inches. A 2x6 is actually 1.5x5.5. A 2x10 is actually 1.5 x9.25. So a one eighth kerf addition brings you very close to mass market lumber. You can draw yourself a little chart until you memorize the numbers. 1,5/8 3,1/4 4,7/8 6,1/2 and so on for thickness. 2x4 width is 3,5/8 then 7,1/4 then 10,7/8. 2x6 will be 5,5/8 then 11,1/4. And no log is too small as long as you can hold it on there. When someone gives you a 18 inch long chunk of Birdseye maple two feet in diameter you will figure out a way to get it cut. Have fun and put on some protective gear in your next video please. Eyes and ears need protection around the mill.

Would you consider a comparison video between your polaris and honda utv? From a homesteading point of view.

The 2x4 that have to much wain could go back on 2 at a time and make a couple 1x4 ?

Happy New Year. Can you get your mill blade sharpened?

diameter x .7 = square cant dimensions 10 inch diameter x .7 = 7x7 cant

Using the mathematics of geometry, getting the largest square can't that will fit inside of the round log end shape. You lose 30% each direction, vertical and horizontal leaving 70% of the log diameter. You lose 15% each side, top and bottom, then 15% on each side, left and right. Example : a 10" diameter log first cut down from top, 10% is 1" and half of that is 5%= 1/2", for a total of 1 1/2" = 15%. Down from top for first cut. Easy head calculation for any diameter log. 20" log = 10% is 2", and 5% is 1" (half) total of 3", for first cut down from top edge. 10" - 11" log at small end is barely viable. Depends on how hungry you are. A 10" log diameter leaves barely a 7" can't. The 45° diagonal of the square is the usable diameter of the log, less bark and Cambria, white pith wood. So... go for whatever is practical. But the smaller logs will eat up blades, time, and labor.

Hi there Good information happy New Year Fence post 4,4 4,6 or8,8 Have a good day All good stuff See you next time 👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

When I grew up, my father would come home from a near by saw mill with all that scrap and uses it for barn gates / Feed trough. As my father would say what does a horse know when it comes to carpentry. I am going to have look up your geometric terms?

Since I am not a wood guy why does the bark dull the blade faster? Is because there is dirt and debris in it?

i know they make circsaw attachments for the mills that debark the area infront of the blade before it cuts it but those are probably pricey and complex, wonder how much either a stream of air or water at the bark right where the blade is going to pass would help, could have it attached to the mill and a switch or valve to turn it on for the first 4 cuts and off afterwards, a decent pressure washer with the right tip might be able to strip the bark off before the blade touches it

If I can get a 4x4 out of a log without too many knots, that's a sellable piece of wood!

I mill down to about 8" diameter, I batons and 1x4 trim usaully just fine, I've been milling a ton of thin siding for some outbuilding out of 10 inch logs all week, I'm also not looking for top quality, its just rough building lumber and siding on non essential buildings

I have personally cut them as small as 5.5 in on small end x 7' long to make 4x4 on a cook's 36" you can put a longer 4x4 behind it that will allow you to mill short of logs on you mill

a 5x5 post is better than wasting the wood. And you were getting near a blade change. you could make 1x3 as well or 1x5

Are those logs Virginia pine? (Maybe you said what they were, but I don't have sound on my computer.) They look like Virginia pine, which I've found makes fairly decent lumber despite the poor reputation.

On my lm29 I will cut to about 6" diameter but only 1" slabs for siding.

I don't have my own mill but hire a wizard with a Woodmizer. When cutting logs I generally use 10" on the small end as the minimum practical size. I might use a slightly smaller log if it has highly desirable characteristics. Remember that 2 x 4s don't always have to be exactly 2 x 4. You can go with the trade size (1 1/2 x 3 1/2) and still have a very usable "2 x 4." So, you can still get a reasonable number of "trade size" 2 x 4s out of a small log.

I just purchased a 3rd log rest from Norwood like you mentioned and the problem is solved.

I have no sawmill experience. Couldn’t you have turned the “wane” to the bottom then made good boards down to the bad wane?

Make a bunch of 1x1 or 3/4x3/4 stickers for stacking lumber to dry.

I keep seeing different information on the size of the 2x4. I saw you talking about cutting them to 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 like the big box stores. I have seen other people say that you cut it to 2x4 and it shrinks when dried to 1 1/2 to 3 1/2. Which is True? I'm building a sawmill right now so I've been watching a lot of videos. Really been getting a lot of information from yours. Thanks

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Everybody has their own point where they decide a small log isn't worth it. I cut red oak, white oak, walnut, and black cherry mostly. I don't cut log when the small end is less than 10", ever. (I get really grumpy when cutting less than about 12" on the small end because the amount of lumber cut per hour on small logs is pretty darned low. And, I get way less lumber per sharpened blade when milling small lumber. My two cents.

For the shorter logs, attach a 2x4 or 2x6 to make a fence that the log can be clamped to...

Happy New Year Troy and Family a suggestion on that last small log instead of try to get the most wood. Try going for the best product. If you had slabed it to dimension for 2 2×4's you would got 2 clean 2x with 5 cuts. With todays prices on 2×4s it would be worth it. But that is at the lowest limit of what is sawable for value. If you cant get 2 clean 2x4 it isnt worth sawing. Just my experience as a sawyer, of course i never sawed on a band mill just a circle mill.

Those small logs are worth it IF you calculate your cuts and you only need 4 cuts to get your cant size, on a 5 1/2 " sq cant you could get 3 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 (2x6) with 7 cuts. and the slabs you cut off are firewood, and wood that burns is fire wood, out west a lot of pine and fir are used for firewood, and IF you like hardwood firewood just mix the pine in with it. what else is there to do with it, burn it out in the yard ???

Why not quarter the log? Why remove the bark? Are these for sale?

Dia more critical vs length, my opinion.

I think they could lift it but wanted to drive tractor instead

Maximum cant size is 75% of the diameter of the log on the small end.

For my band mill, if it's too short or too skinny to safely secure then it's too small to mill. That breaks down to something under 3 feet long, or smaller than 5 inches in diameter.

What i do is put a long 2x6 against the fence and put the log against it and dog it with one dog in the middle of the log.

I don't know why it always Wayne's on me... When it Wayne's... It pours.....

you should have a metal frame to stack the slabs in a 4"x4" bundle and strap it together when its full and sell the bundles, here the demand is huge, for fire wood and other needs, pine they charge $40, birch $50 tamarack 50,, we dont have any ock here but bitch is number one fire wood but i like the black ash, you life the bundle out with fork stuck though the bundle and same to load it on to customers truck or trailer

Make them kids do their push-ups. I can't use a weakling at the lumber mill.

Everyone needs a tractor boy.

That one 2x4 that you say has a lot of Wayne, that’s not Wayne that called rustic, you charge extra for that…

This time I will do it manually with the help of woodglut designs.

Why was this tree felled. ?

The only answer is, any size big enough to be milled, DUH.

Why is heartwood worse than sapwood? Never heard that before. Definitely not when it comes to woodworking! @6:25 you mention 4 cuts thru the bark, but when squaring a log only 2 cuts are thru the bark if the 2nd cut is 180 degrees to the first.

If you flip your cant over you would have less waste

Lol dude you can't pick up the big end of a log and expect your wife to pick up the small end. Shes lifting it all at that point! Let her pick up her end first. I bet she could and you couldn't lift your end! Test it out I could be wrong.

Sorry I have yo unsubscribe to your channel for the second time. 8 minutes of talking before you even turned on the mill. YOU TALK to MUCH